EuroDat

Try this one. Its for the 78. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html The colour versions make it so much easier to diagnose. Goodluck with your problem. Chas

I dont know which year your 280z is, but you can download a colour wiring diagram for the 77 model here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/13131-color-wiring-diagram-280z.html There is also one for the 76 model. If you search the forum for member: sridout you will find it. Chas

If you are going to all this trouble, I would look for a Maxima N47 head. They are not the same as a 280Z head. The 280Z N47 will lower your compression ratio (on a L24) where the MN47 will give you about 10:1 and you dont have to notch the cylinders for the bigger valves. Thats my 2 cents... Chas

Congrats. Its looking good in the photo and the ride height is sitting nicely. Now its time to enjoy:D You dont see it from the outside, but you have done a hell of a lot of work on it. I bet it feels like a completly different car now. Is the slave cylinder different on the T5? Never had a T5, so not sure if its the same. Are you using the 15/16" BMC out of the early 280ZX? Kits are easy to get, but a complete one is not so easy these days. Enjoy Chas

Zed Head is right saying Z's are hard to bleed. Comparing it to the Escorts and Holdens I had. It also took a while to get it back to what it was before I rebuilt the brakes. Sounds like you have changed a lot of stuff in the brake system and air pockets can be a right bugger to get rid of. A vacuum system will make it easier for sure, but that air lock in the master cylinder might still be a problem. Using pressure on the master cylinder is something I nether thought of:stupid:. Thanks for that Zed. I dont have a vacuum bleeder. Ill try that next time. Black gold man's point is also one to check. The rear brake can be simplyy adjusted by using the hand brake. Every time you pull it it will adjust the rear shoes. Some people prefer to do it by hand but the factory manual says use the hand brake. Thats what so good about this forum, your always leaning something new:) Chas

Did you try bleeding the master cylinder at the side bleeders? The piping comes out at the bottom of the cylinder and air can still get trapped in the top section. I always start there and then go to the wheel cylinders and calipers. Chas

Man, He must be waiting for the Titanic to pick it up on the return trip. Hope he sends it soon. Nice Z you found for your mum. Chas

I drained my tank because I was removing it to get the bumper shocks out. If you don't wont to drain the tank you can clamp the suction line with a small wood workers G clamp or a pair of vice grips. Its a good idea to protect the hose with some flat pieces of wood. That prevents the jaws teeth cutting into the hose. Be careful disconnecting the outlet from the damper. If it is still holding pressure it can squirt out until the pressure is gone. Drain it into a bucket or tray. It wont be much, a litee or so (quart gal.) The connector for the pump in inside behind the passenger seat or disconnect it at the pump. Chas

The delco pump should not be a problem. The original pump discharges the same amount but with a little less pressure. The FPR will regulate the fuel pressure to 36psi across the injector. What I mean by that is it is a vairiable pressure regulator which is controlled by the vacuum in the inlet manifold. The more vacuum the less pressure needed to maintain the 36 psi across the injector. At idle the pressure will be around 30psi. This is important because the ECU calculates fuel delivery based on this pressure differential across the injector. Chas

Hi Bill, Great job on both sites. Not crowded and easy to navigate and thats important. Just two small comments on the Londen site. The other web pages (About, Services etc) dont have a home button to bring you back to the home page. Found out the top banner brings me back to the home page, but it didnt jump out, so to speak. And the flags gave me the impression it had more languages available, but that might be an European point of view and not so important forthe local market. Cheers Chas

Hi Martin, Ebay Links busted or not working for me anyway. Chas

I pulled mine apart and cleaned all the crap out of the impeller, check valve and inlet screen. The o-ring was crappy so I replaced it with a new NBR O-ring. I wrote the size down somewhere, but dont have it by the hand atm. After assembly I tested it via the return line into a container to see what it would produce against the FPR. It was something like one ltr in less than a minute. I might test it again since its easy to do and its been two years since I rebuilt the pump. It would be interesting to see what the delco pump produces. Atlanticz have a good tech tip on their website showing the internals. I found that after I did mine:ermm: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html Chas

These guys really have nothing to do with their spare time. So, thats where elvis has been hidding out.

The G3 is smaller than the hose between the tank and the pump, but it will not cause any problems like vacuum lock unless its blocked of course. I replaced my hose when I had the tank out and the new hose was flexible enough to fit the 12mm barbs (tank and pump inlet) and the 5/16" barbs on the filter. Chas

Chris, If your not racing it I could think of a lot of other things to do with $1500. The only time someone will see that "bling bling" is if you run over themLOL Dont know if its the same as Arizona though. Chas.

The fuel pump has an impeller with 5 cylinders. The cylinders are what do the pumping and cause small pulses in the fuel pressure/flow. The damper reduces the pulses to a minimum. Have you checked the pump for dirt and other material blocking the check valves or suction screen?. The check vavles, suction screen and fuel lines can bock up easily with junk out of te tank. The fuel injection cleaner probably loosened up a lot of dirt and the only way out is through the pump. Replacing the pump could be a tempory solution if its getting clogged by debris from the tank. What ever you do, I would fit an in-line fuel filter between the pump and the tank. One you can see the fuel and the elemnt condition. Something like a fram G3 in-line fuel filter would work well. Chas

John is correct of course. With suspension, I was refering to the anchor points on the lower control arms. Wheel bearings should be free to move when preloading the bearing and the brake caliper or brake pads removed to prevent extra drag or mis-alignment. Chas

Flashplayer:cry: Me and my iPad. Ill have a look later on the pc. Goodluck with your diff. I understand your situation and frustration. Been through it with a inlet manifold from the US. Been waiting 14 months. I gave up waiting and found another one. The first one nether came. Chas

Hi Jan, I had mine cleaned in a parts washer before getting them machined. You can clean bearings with petroleum or kerosine, then rinse with degreaser and water. Other members probably have a special brand they use. After that blow them dry with air. Dont spin them with the air gun. The bearing can fly apart. Most brake lathes have taper locks that lock into the bearing cone and need them in place. Suspension should always be torque to spec with the vehicle at normal ride hight on the ground. The is especially important with original rubber bushes. With PU bushes you could probably do it in the air, but its always better at normal ride hight on the ground. Chas

This is also a nice read from A guy called Lindsay. Technical Specifications

I would go with a standard front diff mount and the Ron Tyler diff mount to replace the strap. Hardway has a great thread with lots of photos of the rear end and the Ron Tyler mount. It would be a good read to get an idea of what you want to do. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/47863-lime-green-machine-restoration-thread-1972-240z.html Cheers Chas

Your not trying to tell us, you have been collecting parts for the last 25 years for this project. The chrome gas cap suits the colour. Looks really neat. Chas

I agree with Zed Head. If the mustache bar rubbers look like that then the diff mount it probably shot as well. Replacing the mustache bar rubbers with originals is a right PITA. Redat on ebay sells them, but most people change over to PU bushes. Siteunseen posted a link to a great sight to get detailed info on how to do this. The uni-joints are easy to replace and readily available through Rock Auto, MSA etc. I would change all four, but that is just me. Chas

Why not buy a full set from Nissan? There are two part numbers available. P/N: 38102-22900 (€2.43ea) and 38102-P0100 ($2.80ea) I dont know what the difference is and not knowing which car your diff originally came from doesnt make it easier. Maybe the parts guy at your local nissan dealer can help you sort out which one to use. Or just buy 8 of one P/N and fit them. Chas

You could try ask the restorer. I say restorer because he sold it in 2010. Its from Reverendzed on VicZcars.Com.au For sale Rev's Zed for Sale Project thread. Rev's new Zed Project Chas