EuroDat

Hi dmoralesbello, I just sent you a pm. Thanks for the interest. Chas

They have been out of stock for a long time.

Parts are NLA, but they do fill up with gunk and that will affect there operation. I pulled mine apart and cleaned it in this thread. It should give you an idea what to expect.

Charles, The 280Z uses a different style proportioning valve and is located in the engine bay. I think they changed it somewhere in mid to end 1972 on the 240Z.

+1 I seem to miss posts because there are some many ebay posts. They seem to be one posts. What I mean by that is someone posts the thread, but there is no further discussion. Maybe they can be blocked from the unresd content, but you can still see them in the forum, ebay section.

I haven't attempted pulling them apart yet. I teared the gaskets in the 280Z horns when I did them. Ended up drawing them in autoCAD and printing it on 120gram tan coloured A4 paper and cutting them out. That could be the reason my 280Z horns have a different sound to these ones. I have no baesline for refference.

Thanks Chris, Your horns show the differences good. They don't have a center stud for the bracket. I have never seen my 240Z type with the centre bolt attachment before. That is what got me wondering if these are really of a 240Z. Unfortunatly I have no history on them. No date stamp is also strange. Maybe these are genuine replacements and Nissan made them from a combination of early and later styles?

Hi all, I have a set of old 240Z horns I have had for years. Well I think they came from a 240Z. The problem is they don't have the same mounting bracket that attach to the outer ring like the ones I see in other threads. The mounting brackets use the two some M8 holes to mount to the body, but the bracket attaches to the center post on the horn like the later 280Z. The horns have the original drab green colour. The other thing is they don't have any date stamp. Its blank after the word Date. The last two photos show the difference (front) with the later 280Z horn and the 280Z Date A5 stamped on it. I like the sound of these more than my 280Z horns and was interested where they came from originally. Thanks for any background info Chas

Tomo, If you can't get one, send me a PM. I still have some after rebuilding my pump.

Hi They are not very clear in these phot's, but they are all I have. Hope it helps.

I went with the 240Z turing lights because I wanted the 240Z air-dam. The 280Z air-dam has a much bigger gap under the bumper (a difference of about 50mm). All the mods I have done so far are reversable. Not that Lm planning on going back, but I like to have the option.

I would go with a helicoil or something similar. I have seen a system that uses a threaded tube and knurling on the outside. It comes with a special drill and fitting tool to tap it in. You see them often in plastic parts. I was meaning ramps, I meant wooden blocks out of layers of multiplex and front and back stops so the car won't roll off. Then jack the car up to fit them under the wheels.

Nothing like good progress to make you feel good, even if your back hurts afterwards. Tip: If you are working on the fuel rail or anything on the top end of the engine for that matter, I put special blocks I made under the wheels. Its only like 15-20cm, but it makes a lot of differance. I also use an old soft blanket folded double with stiff cardboard in between over the fender to protect it from (more) damage the PO already inflicked on them. The fenders dint so easily and its tempting to lean on them while working.

Hardways dextron/acetone works weĺl. I had two of these injector bolts break off on a 280ZX manifold. I got them out by gripping them with a pair of vice grips and firmly tapping the end of the stud with a hammer while using firm pressure to turn the bolt. Just don't over do it or you could break off the bolt. Patience is the key to succeedung. One of the bolts took a lot to gef out. I think I tapped it 100 times before it leg go.

Thats bad luck about Yves. Hope he recovers fully. Whiplash can cause problems for a long time. Like the work you did on the fan. I have read about it and your step by step photo's make it look like and easy upgrade.

I can remember that article as wel, but I can't find back again. I think its also in a thread here somewhere as well. Taping seams was the advice I got from the painter that did my air dam a couple of months ago. Good tip Namerow.

I have heard similar advice from a threw painters. They seem to agree on using paint stripper, but stay a least an inch or more away from any seams.

I used new EV1 connector with the quick release sprinb clip. Had them for more than a year now and no problems. They cost $25 including shipping to the netherlands. Everything I found here in the wrecking yard was old, dirty and corroded. I made a screen shot of one of the vendors with the same connectors. I asked him to send via USPS instead of Ebays global shipping charges. Savd $5. Like your idea of making a sub-harness. It will look good with the pallnet fuel rail.

Just seen and read your problem. Haven't been onljne much the last couple of days. Im now a little late, but good to see you found the problem. The only problem I had was when I switched the green and red wires on the hei module. The engine wouldn't go past 2500rpm. Wasn't paying enough attention and didn't follow my own wiring diagram. . I have been running mine for about gwo years and no sign of problems. The oem unit would fail when it was warm. Succes with your modification.

It doesn't look like the early version, they have a notch above to the left of the spark plug. That would make it a later version and looking at the size of the seats it could be off an L26. If its an L26 head it will have larger chambers than the earlier ones. The L26 version has something like 47cc where the early veesion has 44cc. Are the valves 42mm inlet and 35mm or 33mm exhaust? 35mm would make it an L26 head. Do you know any history on it like someone putting larger valves in it maybe?

If you start removing hoses and such. Give the clamps a good dose of pb blaster, some swear by a mix of 50/50 acetone and dexron (ATF) in a spray bottle. Try to save as many of the original efi clamps as possible. They are made from stainless steel and generally superior quality compared to the aftermarket stuff. A phosphate rust converter to clean up the fuel rail and other rusty parts. I used it to treat and clean the parts when I had the fuel rail off the car.

It looks complete, original and not messed with. Thats a good sign. When you are ready to start it, you will probably have issues with the efi. Most of us do. Looking at the surface rust on the piping, I would expect corrosion in the connectors. Check the link I posted on how to solve that problem. You will probably get it running, but then getting it running right will be your challenge. One step at a time: Awaken the beast, get it running, diagnose, improve.

Sitting for 4 years and all that dust on it. You are definitely going to learn about old style efi systems. They are simple, but can be temperamental when left alone for a long time. Here is a link to Atlanticz tech tips. Its full of handy tips and how to's http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Welcome to te club. Enjoy PS. Its also handy for others giving advice to note your cars build month and year in your signiture. Helps keep people focused and not asking questions about things that are not relevant to your model.

I think you blew your chances of getting a deal there. If he is any kind of used car dealer, you're got buckleys. Mind you, if you do happen to swindle him into selling for a good price, I might need your help next part hunt Im on.

There are two style clips for the connectors. The old style (I think pre Aug-77) is a C form and the later style is an U like on the MSA website. All my original connectors had the C style. See photo for the two. If you havd the C style. It won't come off without prying the leg out from behind the conector. All the new stuff seems to be the later U style, but since you have an early 77 you may still have the C style.