nixcars

Nah! never got around to finishing that one. Nick.

Hey Vincent (TRS), Have you put triples on that thing yet?, if not I can help, gimme a call. Also, did I supply you with the cam specs for that engine, I've turned my place upside down looking for the card. Nick.

Got 1 from ebay last month, what a rip-off peice of junk that was....

As far as the dipstick is concerned, yes, you're correct... the pickup on the other hand is a little more difficut. I'm basing this on the 2 that I've done in the past. You have to use the same pickup point in the block to actually bolt the oil pickup to. Even though the middle boss is there in the L24e, it's not drilled & neither is the oil gallerie to it. I hope I have explained this correctly, if not, you can give me a call & it might be easier over the phone. Nick, Ph 0416 283 194.

The pickup needs to be modified, it's not a matter of just bolting it in, you have to extend the tube length & also weld a small support bracket to the tube so that it wont vibrate loose or even crack.

No!... 2 problems... 1. The L24E has the oil pick-up & sump bowl at the front of the engine. (the sump is easy enough to change but the oil pick-up needs to be modified). 2. The g/box x-member needs to be swapped over & should line up. Hope this helps. Nick.

It's coming along real slow... which 240K? unles you're talking about the one in primer... that went to Kent. Nick.

I couldn't help myself... This time it's in the form of an early ('74) 260Z coupe fitted with a L28 injected turbo running Wolf 3D ECU, 5 speed, R200, & Koni's. I will be upgrading to vented brakes up front & disc at the rear. I will also be fitting a FMIC. Nick.

No camber adjustment either! Keep up the excellent work Phillip, can't wait to see it finished. Nick.

This guy actually limped away from this one!

Jim, Try this out, how about placing a spacer between the x-member & the chassis rails where it bolts up to... then to rectify bumpsteer, buy the spacers that go between the strut & steering link... this will do the trick. Nick.

The best way to tell is by the rails under the floors, the later 260's had deeper & longer rails. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Nick.

I'll probably get roasted for this, but here goes... If any forum member is of the female gender, they wouldn't change the light bulb, they would just sit in the dark & bitch about it.

Here's a few of my favorite's "Clever people master life; the wise illuminate it and create fresh difficulties" "A wise man's question contains half the answer" "Success is the one unpardonable sin against one's fellows" "Passionate hatred can give meaning and purpose to an empty life" "When you were born, everyone around you was smiling and you were crying. Live your life so that when you die, you're smiling and everyone around you is crying" " Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the Titanic"

Hi Gav, Don't know if you read this but here's the link just incase. Nick. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=133062#post133062

Anyone here done this conversion on there Z??? Nick.

I can't remember exactly but I know the weight is reduced by 3 kgs roughly. Nick.

Hi Justin, I have a friend that lightens & balances the stock flywheels for me at a cost of $280. (see pic below). Nick.

Anyone know if there is more info/pics on the modified silver 240Z with the 350Z running gear etc, it's the one in Victor Laury's gallery. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14961&cat=500&page=1 Nick.

Oh, btw, there are 2 types of L20A rods, one set is compatible to the L24/L26/L28 crank, these are actually 135mm long & the others have a much smaller jounal & stem, I wouldn't recommend these. ( These might be the 128mm type that Alan is refering to). Nick.

Hi Gav, I'm currently going through this process myself & found that the best combo is L14 rods & L28 crank. I don't think you can use the L14's with the LD28, the throw is too long for this rod & I dont beleive you can get a piston with the correct pin height to match this set up. If you could get pistons with the correct pin height they would have to be custom forged & you'll be looking at $1500 PLUS... If you're set in using the LD28 crank, you'll have to go for the L6 L20A rods & get a set of VG30E or VG30ET pistons (these are available in aftermarket forged design). Again, I don't see the need for forgies as the genuine Nissan pistons are very reliable, after all, the turbo piston is only cast & the VG30ET engine had 155KW on 6psi boost & they can handle double that no worries. The 2 engines I'm building at the moment are both with L14 rods & L28 cranks, but in one I'm using VG30ET pistons & the other with SR20DETpistons. These both have a slight dish so comp will be around 9.5 & 10:1 with the closed chamber E88 head. If I wanted 11:1 then I'd go with the VG30E flat top. Just something to consider Gav. P.S. L14 rods are very rare & expensive here in Australia (try $600 +), but you have a better chance in the UK.

My coupe will be there also & I'm looking forward to meeting people from this club as well. Nick.

Hey Richard, I have a spoiler that I've only seen once before on a car that might interest you, it's second hand & in yellow. Send me your e-mail address so I can send you a pic. Nick.

I was wondering when you (Carl) or Alan T was going to reply to this topic, finally someone that knows what they're on about. You both are a wealth of knowledge & I always like it when either of you set things straight. I hope that members learn from both of you. Carl, just wondering what you think of the 4 cylinder Nissan SR20DET engine, apart from being of alloy block design & having a square bore/stroke combo are there any other pro's or cons that you may want to share. (please don't take my head off for deciding to put this engine in my Z). Nick.