Datsun Dealers

A little news. The L24 is seized. I pulled the Champion plugs in order to spray the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. At first the plugs looked pretty good, but #4 and #6 snapped in half unfortunately. Now I need some advice. I'm sure some spark plug particles fell in the cylinders. And if I try to remove what's stuck in the threads, more pieces will fall inside. I suppose the only next step would just be complete engine disassembly/inspection, but obviously I will leave that to the next owner and most likely sell it with seized, matching numbers L24. Any more advice would be appreciated.

Some fresh bead blasted Shelby Cal 500 slotted mags with new 195/70/14 all seasons.

OEM fan belt found in storage compartment behind driver's seat. Seats cleaned up pretty well.

She might be rusty. She might need a new windshield. But she's got a crack free dash!

Spare tire well doesn't look too bad.

Some updates: I used a little compound on driver's rear quarter with decent results.

I agree Mark, I have always spent at least a day tinkering to try to get them started. I don't mind investing in tune-up parts to try to hear the engine purr.

It will take a very skilled craftsman/shop and a lot of cash to save this car. All of the sheet metal is readily available. I would also hate to cut up a relatively low vin 240z. I've owned at least a dozen semi-rough/driver S30s and I did not scrap any of them.

You're right, under the passenger's side rear bumper is damaged/torn off by the rear bumper bracket. If I'm not mistaken this rear apron is now available new. Surprisingly both bumpers are still in pretty good shape.

I am trying to maximize my profit, plain and simple. If I part it out I will keep some parts I need for my mostly rust free 1/71.

I'm at a crossroads here. I stumbled on this 7/70 240z yesterday, and drove 8 hours round trip to pick her up today. HLS30-07631 The previous owner acquired a 75 acre junkyard in Michigan. He said he pulled this 240z out of a barn where it sat for 30 years. Mostly complete, and mostly all early Series 1 parts are present. So what do I do? Surely I could part her out, chop her up, and make a sizable profit. The other side of me wants to get the matching numbers motor running, get her titled, and let someone take on the project of restoring her to her former beauty. So far I've polled a couple Facebook Datsun groups and the majority of voters are saying to save her versus a full part out. This car needs a lot of metal work. Rockers, doglegs, wheel arches, floors, framerails, rear apron. At the moment I am looking for a single early D hub cap, if anyone wants to sell me one. I would also settle for late D hub cap too.

My thoughts on the slurry pump. I'm going to pick a pump from Amazon in the $50-$80 range and pay $4.99 for a 3 year extended warranty. Unlimited returns for 3 years!

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead! I've been researching hard for DIY vapor blasters and I am gathering components. I've watched hours and hours of videos and am currently searching for a trash pump. Parts sourced so far: - "Used once" Harbor Freight 40lb sandblasting cabinet - MSRP $199 - scored for $100 on Facebook Marketplace (I wanted to be able to fit an L6 head inside without any problems.) - Brand new, never used Craftsman 80-gallon two-stage air compressor - MSRP $1649 - scored for $700 on Facebook Marketplace - Custom brass vapor blast gun from Armoury Enterprises in New Zealand [3mm aluminum air jet, 8mm ceramic nozzle, 1/2" slurry inlet, 1/2" air inlet] - $70 Need to buy: - Lighting upgrade (Duffy I like your latest choice) - Flexzilla hose (most recommended hose to use by all the builders) / plumbing for air compressor / drier / pedal - Trash pump --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some findings in my research: - Most youtubers recommend no more than 60psi for vapor blasting aluminum parts. I prefer that clean, polished look. Glass beads #13 Very Fine, not crushed glass. I watched a video where a guy said crushed glass is far more abrasive; he stripped a painted greasy rusty cast iron intake with it. - "Secret" I'm going to try: supposedly turning off air supply completely and letting trash pump push the slurry at ~25psi by itself as a final step will provide the greatest lustre.

Message sent! Thank you.

The price was just a starting point. USA round top SU values haven't increased much here in the past 10 years. If you look hard enough, dirty complete kits with carbs, intake, and air box can be found for $150-$250 each. I once paid $25 for a kit at a swap meet that completely caught on fire. Fuel lines melted all over the aluminum, etc. Great deal!

I'm paying $100 per pair of round top SU cores. 3 screw or 4 screw. Must be complete! Paying extra for intakes, linkage, air boxes. Paying extra for early balance tubes. Paying extra for complete kits. Do you have a box of miscellaneous SU parts? I'll buy those too. I can supply USPS shipping labels.

I'm paying $100 per pair of round top SU cores. 3 screw or 4 screw. Must be complete! Paying extra for intakes, linkage, air boxes. Paying extra for early balance tubes. Paying extra for complete kits. I can supply USPS shipping labels.

Hello, Long time member here, I've been busy with home renovations. I'm looking for singles or batches of OEM Datsun hose clamps. You know, with the round JIS screw heads. I'll buy anything from 1-1000 pieces. Rusty and dirty is just fine. Paypal ready, located in central Indiana. Here's a shot of my very first SU setup that I rebuilt myself. Sadly the 73 was totaled at the end of 2019.

View Advert Hose Clamps, Round Top SUs, Weber DCOE, Mikuni PHH I'm looking for original: Hose Clamps, Round Top SUs, Weber DCOE, Mikuni PHH I will buy 1-1000 original rusty Datsun hose clamps, any model. Looking for round top SU, Weber DCOE, Mikuni PHH cores, kits, setups. Advertiser 73str86 Date 12/23/2021 Price $1 Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z

Wow, I haven't worked on my 240z since October 2020! Sad. I bought another house and will be looking to move before the year is over. I am debating between buying a Summit body dolly/crate to transport the 240z with no suspension/crossmember or just assemble it all and transport. I just bought an 8.5x16 enclosed trailer for the move. Any advice either way?

Yes, cherry blossom is what I was going for lol.

Damn, I haven't worked on my Z since June! I managed to finish sandblasting the crossmember a couple days ago. I need to hurry up and paint it with Master Coat. Starting a new job at the Subaru factory next week so my time will be limited, but looking forward to a work routine and making time for the 240z.

If you're looking to spend some cash on a full kit with Japanese stainless fit and finish, I highly recommend the Fujitsubo twin pipe setup from RHDJapan.

Submit 100 photos to Bring a Trailer. Their reserve suggestion might shock you.

I am replacing the early 4 speed with a 280z 5 speed. The original early 4 speed was definitely sloppier than any Z car manual transmission I've ever driven. I'd highly recommend the bushing upgrade mentioned above, although I've never seen them for sale anywhere.