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I'm thinking lacquer thinner would eat it up. Thats basically what carb cleaner is but much cheaper. My Dad uses it soaking small engine carbs for people's mowers he works on that go to church with him. They leave the bowls full at the end of mowing season and it turns to varnish over the winter months. I've used lacquer thinner to clean all my internal engine parts. After a couple of days soaking they clean up like new with nothing but a toothbrush and 140 psi blast of air.

Sounds like you've covered all the basics. Maybe changing to a thicker 20 weight would help the dashpots transition like captain obvious says. I use 3 in 1 blue label from Lowes hardware, $3.99 IIRC.

If cas means cold start injector that would be my guess. Backfiring through the Tailpipe Is Usually A Rich Symptom. You could unplug it and see what it does.

I have a #110 color with white interior. Has some rust but overall a solid original '72. Search "Whats it worth" for a bunch of pictures. I'm about 4 hours from Gulf of Mexico port in Mobile Alabama.

Looks darker to me. Wick humble's book has a formula for the hubcaps but he doesn't say anything about the tail light finisher being the same, I DON'T THINK. I'll check later and let you know for sure. I'm still laying in bed. I had a busy day Saturday and it was close to 100 degrees.

Do you have the vacuum advance coming off the front carb? Is the connecting rod in between front and rear carbs set up right, I made that mistake and had a helluva time getting them synchronized until I realized my mistake.

I'm getting ready to sale similar 240. I believe mine may be a tad bit nicer though although it has some rust. Would you know what Bo paid for that one? You can send me a PM if you'd rather not post it on here. I'd appreciate it Steve. Cliff

Worked on a '96 Sentra all day. Great little car too, easy to work on, cheap parts. That's my dangling carrot for some young cutie that needs a car and i know a few to. It will be a "come by here and pay here, then get the hell out" instead of " buy here, pay here". The simple life.

Amazing the Chevy Volt doesn't have a spare tire. That's the beginning of the end for working on your own car. Like the Germans started with the engine cover. I'm laughing to myself, the Volt is a drivable jump starter.

Do they call it ported because it's on the left side of the throttle plate? Just kidding, its on the left if you're looking at it from the passengers side, I think??? It's gotta be behind it, right? If the butterfly is closed there won't be any airflow, I would think. I'm leaving now, I've worn out my welcome. But have beer cans for sighting in my squirrel sniper rifle tomorrow. They're a problem where I live. They chew up more than my puppy but I can't shoot him. 8^)

That's a good idea, thanks again!

Yes, it's ported. Intake vacuum drops when the rpms go up. Sorry, I assume the only reason to plug it would be the vacuum leak.

My sticker says 10 BTDC on my '77 5 speed, just ran down and checked.

I've always plugged the hose and set mine at 10 degrees BTDC, but that's on a manual transmission. If you don't plug it you'll be creating a vacuum leak. I don't plug the distributor's hole, just the intake manifold's.

Well that was easy. they're totally different in design. 4 speed is on the left and won't fit into a 5 speed I have taken the blue one out of.

I know the 5 speed is blue, I'll pull out the 4 speed and see if it's yellow or maybe black. Thank you Zed Head, I "like this". From datsungarage.com, YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

I'm about to replace the seal around the speedometer cable where it attaches to the transmission. I've read conflicting and confusing post about the cog or pinion gear. Does the speedometer cog go with the transmission or the differential? Should I put the '72 4 speed cog in the wide ratio 5 speed I just installed to keep the speedometer accurate? Or leave the 5 speed cog in the 5 speed since I didn't change the 180 differential? Thanks for any help.

Nothing makes me happier than than helping out another fricking crazy Z-ophile. 8^)

That's like sex!

Thanks Guy. Being "liked" by such a great and intelligent group of people means a lot to this small town fellow. Thank you Charles. Looking at your post and LIKE ratio it won't be long until you're in the "500 Club". I'm sure Ms Dennis has a psychological term or two for me and my "likes". 1,000, here I come! 113 with only 268 post, your gonna blow me out of the water! Autograph? I'm happy to say my fingerprints will be on your Z soon. This gives a new meaning to "cookie disclaimer", they're gonna need a bigger boat! Thanks Mike, without you this would've not been feasible .

I've recently read that for the ported vacuum off the front carb to this dizzy's vacuum should be 10 hgs at 2500 rpms to get full advance to the dizzy. FWIW I'M still working on total advance with my high dollar timing light. Fun working with my inexperience LOL

Thank you! 8^)

I used Hasting cast iron on my 280 4 or 5 years ago. It still runs very well. I think the last compression check was 170. My machinist honed mine for the chrome faced rings, you're right there is a difference. He told me the OE Nissan rings were chrome faced but cast iron was a fantastic replacement. It'll be explained by Tom Monroe. Pages 68 & 69.

I was worried they were inferior oil rings. Thank you for letting me know it as an installation issue, I'll sleep better knowing that. 8^) Cliff

I used Hastings on my 2.4, chrome faced moly. My machinist got them for me after I searched and searched with no luck for 83mm rings. You may have better luck with your 84mm size? I don't know anything about oil ring dynamics but I have great oil pressure, if that means anything?