siteunseen

Opinions please! @zKars @grannyknot @Diseazd @madkaw @Mark Maras and all you other CZC's readers. I was thinking around $200 for the bare head? I found a P90 that pushed this E31 to the kid's table.

You may as well do the brakes too, you know, while you're mechanic is out of town. Rotors/drums resurfaced/replaced and new pads/shoes.

I think it's 4.225? thick?

Any input on a price, bare head, would be graciously appreciated. 😁

I would stay focused on the hot idle in traffic you have been talking about. If you haven't noticed the rough ride from worn suspension I wouldn't be concerned what the quick oil guys say. You'll see that in the wear of your tires. Google "240z struts". They aren't shocks.

I fell off the spring cleaning bandwagon pretty quick but I will get some pictures today and post them. Maybe, with some help from the forum I can come up with a price. It's not OE anymore, bigger valve seats and an attempt at some minor porting. Came with a 240 I bought years ago as part of a hopped up 2.8 engine build.

I have a early 1977 with the sloped rear deck. Mine was dated 9/76 and has some odd parts changes from that period on US spec cars. I'll share what I can and have many pics too. I learned a lot with this car.

Here's what I did on my hatch emblem. Thanks @Hardway

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/

I bought mine from this guy... 1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for...1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for sale1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) license plate for sale at the Tag Dr. black is dull

For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.

Hooking up a vacuum gauge is somthing else that helps find problem. You can get them at chain stores with loaner programs for free.

The Good 'ol Boy way as was told to me by Fastwoman. Cost maybe $10? Don't drive around busy streets while watching the gauge, find a nice backroad and there won't be any issues.

@inline6 now's your time to shine some of that knowledge on this fellow restorer. 🤓

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.

Couldn't find much for the ZX... Here's the Zx man. Maybe he can add some info. @dutchzcarguy

Remember all the 280s with upward bent front bumpers? ☹️ I had one.

You know that 3 and 4 have their own individual runners so I'm wondering if there's anything resulting from that? Maybe try snugging up the intake bolts? look for soot around the runners. Try accepting what the mechanic tells you instead of what you're reading on the www.com. He knows more than you, live with it and do what he suggest.

It's a one way valve. Blow and suck your breath in one side and see if it cuts off the flow. Very simple to test, so your mechanic is most likely correct. Personally I've never seen a bad one on a normal running car.

Whoa! I'd be POed. ☠️ The spot is farther back as you know but the tire jockeys don't.

I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁

I'm wondering the age window myself. How much longer will people be interested in a 1972 Datsun?