siteunseen

Advanced Auto has it for $3.99 a quart.

Click the "go advanced" button, then scroll down to "manage attachments" then click on "add files". Find your pics then "upload files". Drag them down to the bottom bar, then "Done" or "insert inline". That's how I do it. Working on sewer lines since he was 3? and your worried about a brake "Idiot" light? You need one.

Post #8 is about the only way I could find to determine anything, it's like they're UFOs or something. Transmission Identification Info - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z I'll add a lesson I learned the hard way from Eurodat, 280ZX 2+2s have the wide ratio transmission no matter the year. Now I have 3.

When I bought my '72 the previous owner had to replace the brake booster before he could sell it, same problems you're having, no pedal according to him. He said it wasn't a big job?

I'd be worried about how the ignition relay got full of water.

Take a hand held mirror and look under the intake manifold, mine had a leak where the EGR tube from the exhaust went into the manifold. I put my valve cover gasket on upside down one time and caused a vacuum leak up front. When I did the yogurt cup test through the AAR hose it parted my hair! It's something simple, I'd bet my house on it. Don't get frustrated, you'll find it, watching the videos you have a good car.

I think you have a huge vacuum leak, EGR. Do you have a vacuum gauge? It'd be interesting to know what it's pulling. What about the A/C idle control? That round thing with the hook on your throttle rod. Take it off and see what happens, 3 bolts. 1 more place to put a return spring on the throttle rod is coming out of the drivers side fire wall on the top "marble" to the underside of the hood latch hole. You might could loosen the locking nut on the A/C idler hook and just turn it up? I don't know for sure. Or I'm thinking the flat piece that the hook catches is held on with an Allen screw, you could maybe take that off?

Has it ever run right since you've deleted half of the the emissions and cold start systems? I've never seen anything like what you have there.

I held the flashlight for my Dad and fetched tools throughout my childhood. That was my mechanical education. I bought this book, How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine: Covers L-Series Engines 4-Cylinder 1968-1978, 6-Cylinder 1970-1984: Tom Monroe: 9781931128032: Amazon.com: Books, and with the help of the good folks on this forum rebuilt a '77 motor, alone. Buy that book and don't worry about the crank, it's balanced already. Great looking car too!

What do I do with the black and blue 12 volt wire? And can I put my '77 discripuater on my '72? Wow!

I had a thought :sick:. I put a ZX distributor on my '77. I have a black w/blue striped wire that's energized from the key at start then loses it when it clicks back to the on or run? notch. What if you wired the CSV to that wire? It would purge the fuel briefly and give it a shot of fuel on start up no matter how hot it was.

Hey I forgot about a possibility. The TPS, little black box above the BCDD attached to the side of the throttle body. You could pop the cover off and see if 1 of the contacts may be stuck or unplug it and see what happens too. I didn't know you could do that until I read Blue suggest that to somebody. Good luck, I'm just throwing stuff out there.

BCDD under the throttle body. Unplug and see if it quits. Small black wire off the BCDD butt connects into a small white wire going into the wiring harness. B boost C controlled D deceleration D device If you deleted the EGR and BPT there's a vacuum hose on the side of the BCDD that needs to be plugged with a small bolt, circled in yellow in the picture.

1/4 turn valve on the AAR, genius! Looks like you may have a newer ZX distributor wired in too, I just did mine. Now to the fun part, driving the tires off.

All I can say is Wow! Fire jumps from the end of the plug wire boot to the tip of the plug almost 1/4". Before I did it I checked and I had to have the boot over the tip to fire the plug. Raining now so I can't do any burnouts but I'll do one in my living room tonight. Thanks for the Tech Tip Blue!

I've cleaned the inside of the distributor up good and lightly sanded the tips of the rotor and the magnets. Should I put dielectric grease on anything inside? I have a new button and cap. Thanks for any replies.

I bought those ^ connectors too. It takes a while to do but it's worth it. I had 1 or 2 old ones that would just fall off the injectors, cracked pretty bad.

You got a helluva deal, I paid $700 to R&R a '01 Camry motor a couple of months ago, it came out from the bottom. White interiored cars are scarce, keep the pictures coming! Here's a good deal on a common to Zs wheel, Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct

That might be something too, valves need adjusting?

Is it this one? OZDAT.com Engine Design Utility I couldn't open your zip without downloading something.

Sounds like your alternator is bad or the belt is loose. Or it could be a bad battery. Put a volt meter on the battery terminals while it's running, mine reads 14 volts at least. You can also see if a screwdriver will stick to the rear round center of the alternator, like a magnet, while it's running. Or something isn't grounded too good.

That's a heck of a lope, sounds great!

Time for a hard drive.

Could his fuel pump be overheating? Maybe clean and re tighten the terminals.

You could use a reducer like these, R & M Distribution - EEXD Brass Reducers. They're at my Lowes building supply locally.