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The borrowed wheels will stay on so they're not really borrowed just repurposed. Didn't run, now runs great, didn't shine either.

Oh no, please say you didn't do all that work without getting a $150 clutch kit.

I think it's called a dash pot, the round thing with the whitish plastic that serves as a shock absorber for your throttle linkage. They're adjustable, https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+dashpot&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=kzKXU6GRIubLsATjt4HIAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1280&bih=620&dpr=1.25

When I put a ZX distributor in my '77 it did away with that junction with the snap down top, so no a newer ZX won't have it. I have access to a few 280s at a junkyard but I'd rather go to the dentists as a junkyard in the summertime but I've had some good Z luck lately and don't want to mess that up, so maybe I'll give you mine and replace it with one from the JY when I go back. I'll let you know in the morning. It's the same as Blue's in your second picture.

You're talking about the red and green wire connector, right? I'd loosen the 2 screws enough to slide a black zip-tie under it until you can find one at a junkyard.

That gauge at Lowes is one Fastwoman found a while back for another fellow having the same problem. I didn't know they had that one, the one I found was for an air compressor, so when I was at my Lowes I saw it in the pool supply section. It has a 1/4" nipple that will thread right down into your existing 5/16" fuel line, tighten the clamp, they call it "dead headed" when it stops the circulation of fuel. Remove the coil wire then turn it over a few times and the gauge should hold the reading for a good while if everything's OK.

240z Datsun 1971

Or you could put a gauge on the hose going into the bottom of the fuel filter, straight from the pump. My Bosch hits 50 psi and doesn't fade when I put a gauge on the fuel supply hose straight from the pump, before the fuel filter. Shop Aqua EZ Pressure Gauge at Lowes.com

Not so stupid! I recently bought a '72 that wasn't running for cheap. Set the valves still no go, bought 3-in-one oil blue bottle for $3. the plungers wouldn't even get wet with oil they were so low. It started then. That $3 saved me thousands off the asking price.

SUCCESS GENTLEMAN!!!! I tried 4 times getting the tang at 11:30 by rotating the oil pump, no dice, it's straight up and down. But looking at my Tom Monroe book the top of the tang lined up perfect with the backside of the top bolt hole, maybe an odd front cover or something. I did see that my timing chain tensioner was sticking out too far through the oil pump hole, so maybe the loose chain has something to do with it? Who knows? I do know I've got a lot of work to do on that little baby. But boy oh boy does it rev up like a blender. I'm dying to drive it but it is storming out now so I'll get a chance to tidy up all the wires and then my garage. Thank you all for your help! I'll drink some beers for everybody. Oh yeah, dropping the oil pump is a bitch. Had to drop the stabilizer bar from the frame, then unbolt the drivers side behind the tire. It wasn't too bad I guess, just not as easy as I thought. Looking back at my 1st post's pictures I guess I did get it a little better, maybe a tooth?

Do you have an aftermarket coil? The one I bought a couple of weeks ago had an Accel on it, the Ford mechanics were trying to get it to run and stuck that on. It cut out at 2,500 RPM. I robbed the one off my other '72 and it ran a lot better. After reading up on swapping over to the ZX dizzy I learned the points distributors need a special coil. Just a thought.

Maybe they stretch after 40+ years? It's just a frogs hair off but since I have the gasket and lots of time I'll drop the pump and re-time it just for fun. it's against the law to drink and drive but to drink and wrench is perfectly legal at my garage, messy though. I'll get a pic of the spindle's timing mark where it lines up with the mark on the pump's top tube. Thank you for the "meeting of minds", I'll be back with my findings Sirs.

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Some folks leave it off, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/51061-rack-pinion-u-bolt-clamp-71z.html

Thank you Zed Head, your FSM diagram looks like what I have. I'll continue marching forward, tomorrow. It's Miller time!

I was curious as to whether someone has moved the cam sprocket to the 2nd hole, I guess I should have included that :stupid: I'm pretty sure it's in #1 though.

I'm putting a ZX distributor on my car and I want to do it right. So could I get you guys opinion on my spindle position? Should I drop the oil pump and get it at 11:25? It's at 1:35 now. And with the #2 on the sprocket showing the closet to the timing mark doesn't that mean it's actually in hole #1? Aren't they separated by 8 sprocket teeth? Thanks for any advice, Cliff

I've got $180 in the dizzy and coil alone, no cap or button. $30 for the junkyard e12-80 that I did get a base and hopefully a good module if I ever need it. The distributor was all rusted up inside so I spent $100 for the reman. $43 for the coil. Few bucks on gas to the junk yard. I'll spend another $50 to $75 on the cap and button plus wires and ZX plugs. $250 by the time I'm done, HOPEFULLY.

No it doesn't come with the base but they did send me a good one D6K8-05, 47 degrees total advance. I have the base from a junk yard car.

I got lucky with the remanufactured distributor from amazon.com. From the spread sheet Walter Moore put together it's one of the better ones. Thank you Mr Moore. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html D6K8-05 10 17 20 47 2500 27 M 1979

Your's looks good to me. Here's some pictures of mine with 14s and then 16s. Blue did the comparison photo shop shot for me. The 16s raised it up pretty good so I took them off and went back to 14s with hub caps. The aluminium slots need polishing. I should add, my main reason for taking the 16s off is my struts a worn out and it rides too high.

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Do you take that as a complement? I found this thread, look at #23 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/41386-73-240z-no-spark-coil.html

I've been watching the 15" at Discount tire for my 240, their 3 warehouses haven't had them for a month, they're on order. I over analyze too but go ahead and take the jump, you'll be happy you did. I just noticed something while typing, look farther down this page to "Similar Threads" and read what everybody else has said. One goes back to '04. About 100 replies should help make your mind up.

The brakes, maybe? Does the '79 have rear disc? Make sure the brake line isn't boogered up. Could also be a bad wheel. Shake the strut towers to make sure it's not loose. That's a few things. Good luck.