siteunseen

Nice car.

My '77 has 3/8" there. It doesn't have to be high pressure until AFTER the fuel pump. I have O'reilly's here and they have the best selection of fuel hose around, they stock 5/8" and 1/2" where nobody else does. When you replace that hose put in a clear filter too, Fram G3 for $3. Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

Mine ideled great in the garage but when I got away from home, too close to call a wrecker, It would quit. I could change out the filter up front and blow back through the supply line and it would get me home. It is a '72 tank that was crusted with crap. I took the sending unit out 1st, get your tank below half full, and it was rusted pretty bad. So I put a camera in the hole and barely could see rust in the picture. Dropped the tank and couldn't beleive what was there. You could stick a magnetic parts picker upper in there and probably get some thing but most of the 12 ounces in mine wouldn't stick to the magnet, CRUD.

If you don't know about the brakes on your new classic Z and it has a wobble in the steering wheel around 30 mph then you should try this. I replaced the inner and outer front wheel bearings, had the rotors turned and new grease packed in the hub. $50 to go from driving what felt liked a cooked spaghetti noodle to an uncooked noodle, stiffer without the shakes. Here's the info; http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/52750-wheel-bearing-race-removal.html

Thank you all, very helpful information as always.

I guess I've never done this the right way but I want to now. I'm replacing the inner and outer bearings and the races need to come out. Is it as simple as it looks, blunt punch on the indented area's? Putting the new ones on do I tighten the castle nut down until they seat then back off until it spins freely? Thank you for sharing any experiences, Cliff.

Magical beer!

I did some measuring on the other 2 cars I have and it's the control arms. I put the 14" steelies and hubcaps on until next weekend when I can do the control arm bushings, if my old bones feel better after a week. There's a lot of getting up and down to fetch tools when you're under a car, I need a Capuchin monkey.

I put the 16x7 Rewinds off my 280 on a lowered 240, no rubbing after a month of driving. Now I'm putting new poly bushings on and after doing the front sway bar ends and the t/c rods the front tires are rubbing bad at the front of the fender well. Any ideas from someone? Thanks for any advice, Cliff

Whew! I thought it was just mine.

I think the article that said buy them now when you can find one, don't restore, and sale them as a restoration potential was right. If you've spent 2 years and 20 grand you're not going to see the up, and up.

"Up, up, up..."

Reference pictures, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

Maybe some loose nuts around the carbs? I'm sitting here making Slurpee noises and to me it sounds like sucking in air?

I straight wired mine with speaker wire and some alligator clips to the battery and the pump's terminals. Try that and pull the bottom hose off the fuel filter, put it in a jug and see how it pumps. Should be a strong steady stream so be careful. Our cars have a return line going back to the tank so it circulates all the time.

Have you tried tightening the clamps? That's usually where they leak from. If the hose is split then here's a good read, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/33005-1976-280z-feul-injectors-installation.html

In my area, Honda, Mercedes and Hyundai. Airbus down in Mobile. Farmers do better building cars than growing corn but if they legalize weed we would be like the Beverly Hillbillies.

That could be the ignition module on the side of the distributor, small black plastic box. Early ZXs have the E12-80 with only one plug, the later ones have E12-92 with 2 plugs. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=e12-92+280zx. They have circuit boards inside so I'm sure they can fail at some point.

Does the tachometer stay constant with the motor's RPM or does it bounce around? I ask thinking of a failing coil.

You're making my life easier, thank you.

You can take the fuel supply line loose at the bottom of the fuel filter and put it in a jug. Have someone turn the key and see if fuel is coming out, you'll know if it's clogged, should be a strong steady stream. The inlet to the original Bosch fuel pump, if that's what you have, has a small cone shaped filter in it. You'll need to loosen the line from the tank to the pump, slide it off and pull the filter out with tweezers. They are very fragile so be careful. While you have that hose off you could blow through it to unstop any debris from the pick up in the tank. If you haven't done this yet, you should go to Walmart and buy a Fram G3 clear plastic filter and put it in the line from the tank to the fuel pump, $3 insurance. I look at mine all the time fearing the Red Kote tank liner will show up in there, 2 years and nothing but beautiful fuel. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

I've got a camera and two '72s. I'd be more than happy to take some reference pictures if you need something.

That thing under the fuel rail that's leaking air could be the Fuel Pressure Regulator. https://www.google.com/search?q=280zx+fuel+pressure+regulator+location&tbm=isch&ei=deTMU87WLs6cyASPooDQCw They play a huge part in the fuel injection system. It should have a vacuum line coming off the intake manifold to it, if it doesn't and is leaking air you should fix that right off the bat. My '77's air filter housing is an early "Cold Air Intake" type, I think the ZXs are made a little different but that shouldn't be a problem, no leaks after the AFM is what is important, "un-metered air" will cause it to buck and cough. I would think your cooling problem isn't the radiator if it gets hot that quick, stuck thermostat, bad water pump or fan clutch. Spin the fan with your hands, if it free spins more than 2 rotations your fan clutch needs replacing. Take out the thermostat, crank it and watch the flow under the cap or lack of flow. Sounds like cars I've had in the past. My Dad would say to "take the radiator cap off and drive another car under it, tighten the radiator cap and go". He could be a d i c k sometimes.

#10 Walter Moore, is the post that eased my mind. "This is typical for me. Get a meat thermometer. Put it in the top of the radiator. Start the car and let it idle until it gets full up to temperature. Check the temperature of the actual radiator fluid. You will feel better. Trust me."

Those plug wires are HUGE. Maybe there's the $1,000?