siteunseen

Current thread, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50845-just-did-the-kia-hatch-seal/

According to my Datsun books the 2.4 and the 2.6 are both 83mm bore size. The 2.8 was the bigger so I'd say NO. 12/'74 would be 86mm. Try rockauto.com. EDIT: Well after reading a little about that, I'm not positive. I've read the headgasket should match the block not the head, so it seems it doesn't matter if the hole diameter is a little bigger against the head. Sorry if I've caused any confusion but I would try and find one that matches the block. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/headgasket/index.html

I measured mine with the first of the flat part of my dial calipers clamped down the "channel". .160" for stock ones. A little further back than your picture #8. 1.45mm is .06" on top of .160" stock so will you get .175s? They don't make .172s. There's plenty of .175"s http://schneidercams.com/7191738StandardWearCap-1.aspx

I did the ZX swap into my 240 and used the original shaft, no problems. Here's some pictures to get you familiar with what you're about to do, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html It'll be a lot easier on a stand than in the car, timing the oil pump and distributor shaft.

I have a N42 head with a Helicoil in one of the stripped out spark plug holes. Didn't even notice until I'd rebuilt the motor and my Dad pointed it out. I bet you can get it out with a socket when it's warmed up. Good luck.

I work at a restaurant that I don't own. Aee, that sounds bad. Rebello is top shelf, I haven't got to that level yet, I'm still drinking the stuff under the bar. They'd talk me into sending the whole head. Maybe someday I'll own the restaurant. That's what I did, thanks to your thread. The lightest weighed 74.5 grams, heaviest was 78.25. Now they all weigh 74.5. Took the block look off the lash pad end, looks more like a ramp now.

I'm sure your puppy training is going better than your green eyed lady.

Do they create some kind of "weakness", can't think of a better word, between the wheel and the brake rotor or is it less thread strength holding the wheel on for your personal taste? Thank you for your input, I can live without them for sure. Also they are different ones for front and rear, I believe, 2 were flat around the center hole and the other 2 were beveled. I left the beveled ones in a box.

My car came with 1/4" spacers behind the steel wheels when I bought it. I took them off and have been driving without any issues. After putting Konig Rewinds on then driving around in tight circles there was no rubbing so I put the spacers on the rears, looks a little better to me. With the acorn lugs there was plenty of threads left to tighten the wheels down. Is there any potential problems running the spacers on the rears? Thanks for any advice or experiences doing this. Cliff

You are looking on the passengers strut tower?

The two closet on the registry at zhome.com. I don't know if you could do some math and figure it out? Good luck and welcome to the forum. Post some pictures for us Z lookie lous. VIN:HLS30 010219 Production Date:09/70 Color Body /Int :Silver / Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24-9244 Owner:Dale Johns City/State/Cntry:Lexington, SC USA IZCC Member#: Comments:Original Owner e-mail:rdjohns2001@yahoo.com Date Registered:28 Sept 03 VIN:HLS30 010317 Production Date:09/70 Color Body /Int :907 Green/Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24-013547 Owner:Robert Kinch City/State/Cntry:Wendell, NC, USA IZCC Member#: Comments: e-mail:rob.kinch@comcast.net Date Registered:9 Aug.11

Well Huckleberry Hound got huckel bucked! Naw, not too bad. Instead of $160 off I'm just getting $110, but I could care less because they are AWESOME and I never use that word. $561 total for 4 15x7 with Hankook 205/50s. Before, with the scallop hubcaps After with the shiznitz's

What persistence and patience you have, my hat's off to you. I'm hoping you'll get the suggestions and tips you need.

Some good info here, http://datsunzgarage.com/

But he's got that cool colonoscopy camera already. I'd bet his wife insists that it stays in the garage.

Awe man, bummer! What's that needle looking thing beside the keeper in picture #3? I had to use a sharp pointed pick to get the spring keepers to even separate from one another with the springs fully compressed.

I'm going through this now too. .460" is the max lift without different springs and shorter retainers as well as shorter valve seals. My machinist says going to a .490" lift, which I wanted 1st, was more work and money for him. Madkaw also warned me of that big a cam, a better ignition and triple carbs to start with so I changed my mind pretty quick. Get your rockers resurfaced whichever way you go. I sent mine to Delta Cams, the guy on the phone said $3 each but everybody else said they paid $4 a piece. Still way cheaper than new ones. Read some over at hybridz.com.

Idle (consistent but low) When gauge needle is steady at about 8 to 14 it generally indicates incorrect valve timing. Idle (with constant large fluctuations) This action usually indicates a leaky head gasket Cruising (big variations) Wide variations of needle increasing with motor speed indicates weak, or broken valve springs

$671 purchase price, $160 in rebate cards that I will pay on the balance. I have 6 months interest free to pay. I did some good old fashion "I'm a dumb 'ole country boy, help me get some nice wheels for my car", works everytime.

Thank you, I'd like to do that too. My old switch is just hanging under the newer stereo.

What about that JB Weld on the EGR tunnel? Is it all sealed up still?

I just bought this set-up for my 240. After all the rebates and a $20 dollar credit I had from another set, $511 to my house. The money does like the Energizer Rabbit, It just keeps going and going and going...

One of those ported vacuums on the side of the throttle body went to the BPT valve on my '77. I removed that with the EGR and plugged that nipple. Mine also had a 2 hose plastic vacuum valve on top of a warming plate that looked like an "F". I can't remember where those wound up. Check Blues Tech Tips on reading a vacuum gauge. It has all kinds of scenarios.

I used fuel hose from O'Reilly's and two 3/4" PEX 90 degree elbows to make the 180 bend. O'Reilly's has 5/8" and 1/2" low pressure fuel hose by the foot, at least the ones here do for what that's worth. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATR/27008/N0887.oap?ck=Search_5%21s%218+fuel+hose_N0887_5142640_1149&keyword=5%21s%218+fuel+hose&pt=N0887&ppt=C0222

Seems like I read those piston numbers were weight related. The 3s weighed so much then the 4s & 5s, etc. A way the factory could balance the motor a little better. Mine have P79 stamped in the middle too. It was a ZX motor also. RossiZ did you come across anything that was about to come loose or break? I've torn down 3 over the last few years and always found something that got the "holy $^!#" comment. That's what happened this weekend taking the cam towers off a head, they were really loose. That's the reason I'm rebuilding a perfectly good running 43 year old motor. I don't want to break down on the way to Memphis for ZCON. Did that transmission have the extra bolts at the bottom going to the F54 block? Sorta like a bracket looking thing.