siteunseen

Okay, that was driving me nuts. Mine does have something like that, it's called a "Damper Plate" made of stacked iron. If you click on the picture in the first post you'll see how it goes. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/35878-odd-part-near-rear-diff/

They've been talking about it for months, finally it's happening.

I glued a magnet to the Bosco's free beer token, now it's in my refrigerator magnet collection.

I ended up using the big "C" compressor from Advance's loaner tool program. I didn't want to remove the cam at first but it needs cleaning so I changed my mind. That Sealey tool would be great for changing valve seals with the head on. Luckily mine is on my workbench.

I can't find anything that looks like that on google images, I looked because I have a '77 and it doesn't look familiar to me. I haven't taken my differential out though, just replaced the mount. Good luck.

I need advice, reassurance on my valves. I took all the rockers off so they were sealing with the springs tension. I blew into the exhaust holes on the manifold side. Tight! No leaking. The intakes were tight but I could tell air was getting past them, just the intake valves. Is that okay? My thinking thinks it is, just no leaking through the exhaust on the combustion stroke. Right? Thanks for any thoughts. Cliff

Would you want the crud getting sucked into the head? It has to go somewhere. Like in that Jack Black movie with Vapoorizer, "where does the s h i t go"?

Lacquer thinner and some old toothbrushes would work but if you aren't removing it that would only get what you can see. I used a five gallon bucket with about two gallons of thinner and submerged mine for a few days, as well as the pistons. Works like carb cleaner, cost me $10 a gallon. Oven cleaner works good too but you'd need it off the car. I would take the throttle body off and clean as far in as you can. Especially around the butterfly.

I had to throw something in even though I have know idea what y'all are talking about. I do know closing the loop makes thing work!

I've always been told to NOT lock the parking brake when the rears are hot, holds all the heat in when the shoes are pressed against the drums. Also stretches the cable like mentioned above. I don't use mine unless I'm on a hill.

I replaced my stuff from rockauto.com and Advance Auto. You'll have to send your old stuff back for core charges though. The rear wheel cylinders are a pain. They have changed the angle the hardline screws into. I ended up bending the hardline so it would line up. My trick was swapping the lines from right side to left, it didn't require as much bending that way. You can buy a pretty decent set of stainless hoses that go from the calipers to the cylinders off ebay.com. You can get everything off ebay, I just realized. If you're working with a budget I'd say get all you can from Advance online. Put in "TRT30" for the coupon code for 30% off. Then you pick it up at the store. I'll add this, with new brakes and a new set of tires mine went from a ill driving clunker to a smooth as silk Cadillac. Of course then I HAD to pull the motor, sarcastic emoji. I haven't driven it since February.

I can't find that anywhere but the UK. A months shipping time. Trying some of the bigger vise-grip styles from the loaner program at local chain stores. They aren't working very well. Where did you get your's Geoff?

You may have unmetered air getting into the manifold causing the white plugs (vacuum leak), around the EGR possibly. When you get the fuel pressure tester, if you have the money get a vacuum gauge. Those are two items the chain stores have on their loaner tool program. Pay for it, use it and get your money back.

...we're gonna rock down to electric avenue...

I would rather read an explanation standing on my head than get that wise arse "use the search function". You and Zed Head are the ones who take the time to explain, it's that "teach a man to fish" thing.

I just remembered where I've seen the same black sheen as the steering rack. The metal ring around the hole in the tunnel for the shifter, under the boot. I knew I'd seen it somewhere when I was tearing my car apart. Maybe they painted things in groups? But I like the gloss you have in the very first picture of post #1 too, less work is always better. Stolen from google images;

The heat shield the fuel rail and the ring around where my shifter comes through the tunnel into the car are the ones I'm doing. So far! EDIT: Ignore what I said! I'm claiming heat exhaustion.

I think you're right about the galvanized metal. I've got mine off an original 240 and will post up a picture in about an hour or two.

What in the world is that? You need an EGR block off plate. I bought an EGR gasket and carried it to a welding friend of mine. He cut one out of aluminium in the shape of the gasket.

How hard is it to replace valve seals with a compressor like this? Isn't this the one to use without removing the cam? Thanks, Cliff

Spider webs can cause things to stick. I paid an HVAC guy to come to my house and clean the contact switch on my A/C unit. $60 bucks for 10 minutes.

I'll guess it's the check valve or lack of one in an aftermarket pump. Like EuroDat says, aftermarket fuel pressure regulators are horrible about leak down, the universal ones.

The TPS CONTACTS also. Could be stuck like points.

I thought I had a picture of it before I stripped the paint off. It's not greasy I promise, I hate handling greasy stuff, so you decide how glossy it was. This is off my orange 240.

This was the tube on the steering rack and it was gloss. I'll look at my other black parts I have in a box for sand blasting, I'm thinking the trans mount is gloss too. Maybe the chassis parts are satin and the other is gloss?