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I bought mine from rockauto.com, $30 I think. Had to bend the hardline like zKars says. One thing that made for less bending was to swap the hardlines from right to left and vice versa. Not stock but darn close. Or you could buy the right angle inlet from MSA for $200 each. Thinking back there was something about the adjuster arm I had to redo after I had them both on. Seems like it had to be bent to catch the adjusting wheel notches, when I pulled the E-brake nothing happened and it should have.

I'm 99.9% sure the '78s had the switch in the oil pressure sending unit. He may have the wrong year oil sender or the wire could be loose or corroded. From MSA; Oil Pressure Sender, 70-2/77 240Z-260Z-280Z Code:17-8001 Price: $47.30 Quantity in Basket: none Oil Pressure Sender, 3/77-84 280Z-280ZX-300ZX Code:17-8003 Price: $59.95 Qua

Boy oh boy is that true! I got a ZX motor a year or so ago and they came with some chain and a big arse front end loader. I got them to let me go home and get my tools, came back and for $50 less they let me disconnect everything. They did put it on it's side for me first to get the low stuff then righted it up for the rest.

Average price is $7,500 according to Hagerty's. I'd think it's a #2 or #3 by your description. https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vbe=63940

I've thought that maybe your throttle plate is crudded up around the bottom and not letting any air pass by like it should, it affects idle. It may not help your current problem but cleaning all the electrical connections is always helpful. You already know about atlanticz's tech tips so look at this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

...and things you should!

The vacuum hose going to the fast idle actuator may be cracked or loose. When they are working properly it will pull back the throttle rod raising the idle to compensate the drag from the A/C compressor. Quick picture I grabbed off google, maybe you can see what I mean. FICD is "fast idle control device"

Is the new fuel filter's arrow pointing toward the engine? If it was starting right up before you did the things you mentioned it has to be something simple. Are the thermo time plug and the coolant sensor plugs reversed at the thermostat housing or possibly the bullet connections? Just guessing this morning, you seem to know what you are doing so I apologize for sounding pretentious.

You've done this!

I think I just bought your's! Kidding, I just bought one off ebay for $36. It's coming from Tennessee, grease and all. 14 day refund if I don't like the condition, it looks to be well used. The cheapest new one was $85.

I think he'd melt.

2.5" exhaust. It may not run better but you'll think it does.

Do you have that E31 on top of a 2.8 with flat pistons? I sure hope my E31 doesn't have to have 104 with the 2.4 I'm building. I can buy 93 at my local station but for higher than that it'd be aviation gas from the airport. That would suck too.

Both of mine came with the scallops like the 2nd picture in the link above. 2/'72 & 7/'72, FWIW.

Nice car. Zcardepot on ebay can help you out with a lot of the small stuff like mirrors and the engine bay light. futofab.com has new chrome bumpers. Wheels are plentiful over here but the shipping would be expensive. Check our classifieds. You might find some things closer to you. Enjoy the Z!

Thanks guys. The one Chickenman posted got me to thinking, and it hurts. The one I was going to get, with the barrel end that goes over the spring retainer would only work if the rocker arm was off. So that won't work for changing lash pads. Thank you for that.

EDIT: I think I'm going to buy the big C style. I just tried a pry bar I have on another head and it worked pretty good. I might make a wooden pry bar for under the cam, a hammer handle works pretty darn good already. I'm wanting to get my cam lobes centered with my rocker's pad. I'm going to try this myself. I know that will be looked down on but I have more time than money. The head is off the car and I can't decide which spring compressor I need. If I get the one that hooks to the cam whats to stop the valves from pushing down? I have a 1" x 1" or there about block of wood for breaking the collets loose. But when I get ready to set each rocker up I'm wondering which would be a better compressor. Please give me some advice on the tool, I need to get one on the way. Here's my two choices so far, without your help. The head is on my workbench, keep in mind please. Any other recommendations would be great. #1 #2

Rossiz says the same. I'll get one. Have fun with the tranny install. Your helpers will always remember working on your Z. Pain pills say not to operate heavy equipment. I imagine a locomotive fallls under that warning.

I'm working with the E31 and an early E88 right now. The only difference I can see is the hump around the spark plug hole on the E88. Later E88 I have has a deeper combustion chamber, about a 1/4" drop around the fire ring where the E31 & early E88 are maybe 1/8". Barely enough to catch a fingernail, if I had fingernails.

Finally got to burn some gas! It didn't hit 85 degrees until 10:30 a.m. Drive a Datsun Day.

Which spring compressor do you use madkaw? I think the one that hooks on the cam would be best for centering each lobe on the rocker pads. Seems like it would be a lot quicker but I've never done it so I'm looking for ideas/tips from you and the others that have done this before. Like this one, Thanks, Oh yeah, I got my heads sealed with Eastwoods clear satin for bare metal. I used a 1/2" China bristle brush rather than spraying it on. After reading a good many threads, if you put on too much it will yellow and flake from the heat. The best thing is to put some on and work it in with a brush, until it quits soaking in. You can barely tell it's on there but I dripped some water on them and it beaded up like wax. I'm happy so far.

I tried the 10mm brake bleeder wrench, rounded the valve off quick too. You need two pairs of good, clean jaws Vise-Grips. It's the only way, unfortunately. Are you putting the stainless hoses on? I had to use needle nose Vise-Grips to hold the square piece. Don't know what it's called but they're on all four. Maybe soaking them down with some kind of penetrating spray would help? I use 50% acetone mixed with 50% automatic transmission fluid in a spray bottle. It's so much more for a lot cheaper price.

Good day for you!

Usually the ethanol free is about $.50 to $1.00 higher, depends on how far you drive to get it. The country quick shops (way out there) are cheaper and have the tanks for it. They have all the fuels plus off road diesel and ethanol free regular. We have Jet-Pep for the cheapest, there based out of Holly Pond which is about 30 minutes from here. Never heard of a Fuel City that I remember. Is it like Love's outside 285 in Atlanta, truck stop/restaurant/gas station? You can buy a Big Gulp or a mud flap.