siteunseen

Can't say for sure but the 240 tank has some extra vent nipples for the the evaporation tank. Maybe they could be plugged? EDIT: After seeing Wheee's picture with the big hose at the back, the early 280s have the evap tank also. Maybe they all have them, I just don't remember one on my '77 tank when I cleaned it.

Lay the Nissan next to the MSA and make your decision. Sarcastic smiley. Also the studs and nuts. You can buy those at a hardware store. Google "conical exhaust manifold stud nuts". FWIW

Yes they do! $59,000 and I have no idea what car uses that motor, but I will in just a minute.

How to restore book by Wick Humble has some info on change over dates recalls and tech bulletins. There's a lot to read though! Good for cabin fever climates.

So the later cars have less rear cabin area. That was for a taller fuel tank, more fuel, I've read that before. I'm getting old.

09/76 build date, accordion front bumper ends, N42 spray bar on a drilled cam N47 cylinder head, collapsed spare with air bottle. it's a mix of parts for sure but they are all original, for sure. I think they were using up all the stuff from '76 when mine was built, my Dad calls it a hermaphrodite car, but he's on some heavy meds. those red wires you see are from an alarm system. You can see the spacers they put in, towards the front of the spare. The 75 and 76 had less space with the raised deck, 77 and 78 were lower with the space saving spare, more room for kids or golf clubs etc. I would think the 78s didn't have those spacers, allowing the lower deck height. Just a guess though, when I had a 78 it was in the late 80's and I don't remember much from 85 through 1999 or so.

I got the "ERROR" at xenon a few years ago. Seventy seven only, no problems with the FI bible. Maybe it's fixed now? But I was looking there not too long ago and it was down for some reason or another? Hey Jeff, are you gonna be able to take in the BRE show while you're in CA? That would be neat, I'm sure!

Well if anybody falls in those two categories it's YOU!

Mine has the collapsed spare and can of air with the orange folding wheel chocks. FWIW

My '77 was built in 9/76 if I'm not mistaken. I'll check and be able to say for sure later. Cliff

I haven't had a checkbook in years. I have to go to my bank once a year and get a counter check to pay my property taxes. But apparently he has the good stuff so you must play by his rules. I think it's cool he can do that. Business is good!

The hole is circled in red. I had already sawed the EGR base off thinking I could have it welded up but my welder friend said it was too far gone, as in rotten aluminum, nothing to weld to. The picture of the mirror is just for show, I was looking at the heat shield bolts. That hatch picture is what I mean by "sloped deck", you'll run into that phrase when ordering things. It's a way of saying early '77 or late '77. You'll see a cord with a hook that attaches to the hatch gas tubes to hold it up if you haven't already, it's on the driver's side. Hope this might help someway. Oh yeah, here's the color codes. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

Just like mine. It was built in late '76 but titled as a '77. Fuel sending unit drops in from the top, under that access cover. Does your's have the sloped up rear deck before the the brake light cover? Mine had a N47 cylinder head with a oiling cam plus a spray bar, oil pressure gauge read kinda low which worried me until I learned that. There was a factory recall on the coupling that attaches the tube from the BPT valve to the EGR tunnel on the underside of the intake manifold. Serial numbers were from 350001 through 410516 and if was fixed there should be a sticker under the hood but not always. Mine wasn't fixed and it rotted a big hole in the intake causing a vacuum leak, ran like crap and the previous owner parked it. I bought it years later and when rebuilding the motor I discovered this, put a better intake on and did away with the EGR and BPT valve. Still ran bad up to 2500 RPM then it would pull hard. Put a potentiometer in the coolant sensor wires and it runs like a champ now. Take a hand held mirror and look under the rear of the intake where the EGR is, your's maybe bad or loose. I'll try and find the pictures right quick.

It's pretty simple compared to the vented 240 tanks. Time consuming but easy if you plan it. I can post some tips when I'm on my pc. Red-kote instructions are a good start, google it. Weekend project that cost me $50 in materials. Not too bad IMHO.

I wish more members were that honest.

What ever happened with the programmable ECU? Fire box or something there about?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic02a01g

Nissan still has the whole assembly. I bought one a few months back, somewhere around $40. Then I put an led bulb in, less heat that brittles the lens.

Those tech tips are helpful especially if you're new to the Zs. Jeffs rusty tank is a very common problem. I've done 2 of my 3 cars so far. One of the best tech tips for me was how and what filter to install right out of the tank, catches the crud before the pump and the front filter plus its cheap insurance. Fram G3 filters are like three bucks. If they get nasty pretty quick you can bet the tanks crudded up. That crud will mess up a fuel pump! Your car looks alot like mine. Side trim and louvers. Look for a sticker on the radiator support for the color code. Mine's 305. Have fun and be patient with the old girl!

Yes welcome to our club. You've got it made with Jeff 15 minutes away. If it's '77, double lucky! A former member, hopefully not for too long, has a '77 and has done just about everything imaginable to it. Documented with great pictures and directions that are simple to follow. Google "Blue's tech tips" Cliff

You have it out of the car, why not take it to a machine shop and have it vatted? Have the bores honed too. I had a 2.4 block done a few months ago, $75 for everything.

They go on the back heavier end, like this? C man put up a diagram above.

When you live on "Southfork Ranch" like JR, you need a Gator.