Captain Obvious

And while I'm posting pics.... Anyone have any info about the markings of "F" and "R"? I have high confidence that the master cylinder I have here is the original one that came from the factory mid-1970. Note that the "F" and "R" circuit markings are STAMPED into the cylinder body, NOT cast in. In fact, if you look close, you can see that there was some sort of grinding that took place before the "F" and "R" were stamped. Like they ground off the original marks and restamped the master with the front and rear as documented on the early cars. Here's what I'm talking about... If you look closely, you can see the grinding marks and the stamped "F" and "R":

I'm looking for some of the guts from a master cylinder that looks like this. Note that it has the two output ports located between the two reservoir tanks: Hopefully one that comes apart without a permanently disfiguring fight because it doesn't look like this inside:

No, no. No apologies necessary! When you posted up a pic of that master cylinder, my immediate thought was "Weird... Why would someone switch the plastic reservoirs from F to R?" Well the answer is "They didn't. It's a new style master that has the "F" closer to the firewall. Duh." Couldn't see the forest through the trees! Oh. and the hardware arrived over the weekend. Looks great. I'm sure there will be something in there I can use for my starter. And the level of patina is perfect! Thanks again @Terrapin Z

So I talked to @Terrapin Z in PM about this cylinder, and I completely glossed over the fact that........ It's the later style and is completely different inside than what I'm working with. So unfortunately, I'm out of luck. And a little embarrassed that I didn't notice it until now.

Got it. Thanks guys.

So pardon my ignorance on the early cars, but how do you read / interpret the date codes on the glass? I'm assuming it's the "M-214"?

I saw him with his band. Maybe ten years ago? RIP.

Got it. Well, that may be how your life goes, but that's not how stuff works for me. Hahahaha!! I'm gonna toss the master in the ultrasonic cleaner and see what happens after that. If I can't get those valve seats out, I'll just leave them alone. As long as they are clean, they don't seem to be causing any trouble.

Ummmm... The rust?

Thanks for the input everyone. @Terrapin Z, I'll reach out about that cylinder you have. And @inline6, did you have to pry those valve seat sleeves out, or did they pretty much fall out after you had cleaned everything up?

I'm working on an early master cylinder now. @inline6 How did yours turn out? I had to resort to drastic measures to get the rear circuit piston out... Anyone got a half dead early master cylinder around they would offer up as parts? I could use one of these: Also, the valve seats for the output check valves... Mine are stuck in there. How did you get these out?: And just to make searching easier, here are a couple master cylinder related links: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68100-master-cylinder-anomaly/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66276-brakes-dragging/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66168-brake-master-cylinder-identification/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/21826-brake-master-cylinder-240z/

My understanding is that the tapered hardware used elsewhere on the Z's is BSPT. So my expectation is that the original plug on the diff is BSPT as well. That said... I sure wouldn't fault you if you decided to use NPT instead of BSPT for a full custom part of your own design. I probably would.

Does it smell like gauss? You know... When you tell someone to smell your finger?

What he said. Nice work!

LOL! That one looks like the snapped off lower bolt that came off the car! So I think I already have that one!

Looks like I got here late and the good ideas are already taken! That idea of a spacer ring inside the tail housing sounds like a great way to mitigate the damage. It looks like there is enough of the original circumference to locate the spacer ring, Some epoxy or sleeve retainer loctite to hold it in place, and you're good to go. Do you have a lathe to make the spacer ring? I don't remember who has one and who doesn't anymore.

I was just recently messing around with a window (fumbling moderately successfully?) and I found that rubber roller had seized on it's axle and had worn a flat into the rubber. That can't help matters as far a scratching the glass goes.

@Terrapin Z, I have verified the hardware size I'm looking for... M10 x 1.50 x 45mm long (measured under the head). I believe what you offered up would be perfect, even the patina! I'll send you a PM! Thanks for the help!!

Haha!! Yes, that is way too much bling for me! My goal with this car is that it will show it's years. I'm not intending (nor qualified to perform) a restoration, I'm intending "a display of well earned experience". I want stuff to work, but there isn't much bling left from 1970.

Well I don't have anything yet, but that stuff that Terrapin posted looks like the kind of stuff elsewhere on my elite early 240 junk. Thank you, my friend for your offer to help, and the hardware you have would work in a pinch. A pinch that I may yet take you up on! Certainly better than what I have been using.

That hardware style looks like what I'm dealing with here. Thick heads and that older style numbering font on them. And the patina is perfect as well. I forgot to double check the thread pitch yesterday. I'll try to do that today. Thanks!

That would be fantastic. Is it a little rusty? That would be a bonus.

At this point, I got the door guts back in and it's a whole lot better than it was. the alignment of everything isn't perfect, but I can roll the window up and down without excessive force, and it's pretty good. Good enough for me to move to the next emergency at least. Between the help from you guys and a couple youtube videos, I managed to get the glass back into the doors and onto the regulator wheels with way less issue than I expected! Thanks guys!!

OK, I cleaned out all the old tracks, lubed everything with fresh lube, and I made a couple "space taker-up" washers to replace two original flexible plastic washers. One of the originals was in good shape so I left it alone, but here's what I did for the other two. Two layers of shelf anti-slip foam and one layer of vinyl. I wasn't sure how the shelf foam would handle the abrasion of sliding against the track metal, so (like @Namerow) I used a layer of vinyl on that sliding surface. Here's some pics:

@Terrapin Z I will double check the size and pitch of the bolts the next chance I get. Thanks, and I'll let you know!