Captain Obvious

I disagree with both your premise(s) and your conclusion(s). How far from the original thread do we want to go? Haha!

Cool, and thanks for the confirmation. One question though. When you said the fuel pump comes off in start... What you really meant was that the fuel pump comes ON in start, right?

The Black Box? So that's what they call that one. Been many moons, but faded brain cells support that moniker. Didn't know that about the layoff-rehire culture. Probably due to the contract style of relationship with their customers. Not very disappointed that I missed out on that.

LOL. Yeah, what science fiction was that one? Resident Evil? Did I get the right one? Big corporation builds virus in an attempt to create a super-soldier. Doesn't work right and escapes from the lab and animates dead tissue. That's the one, right?

Well I was thinking that things that fly are aviation. But I'm not in the business, so I don't know the finer points. However.... I almost WAS in the business. Recruited out of college and flown out there for a "mass" interview where a gaggle of soon-to-be graduation students are all brought out at the same time and stuffed into a meeting room. In that room, they are forced to watch boring corporate videos (on VHS) and have ridiculous question and answer sessions before being led one a glamorous plant tour by some woman from personnel to show them where they could be working. When it came for the plant tour, two guys from some other department came looking for me... "Mr. Obvious, can you come with us please?" They took me out of the gaggle and led me to another small meeting room where they interviewed me for about an hour asking all sorts of stuff... When I asked a couple questions about what I would be doing, they pointed out the meeting room window to a different building which had all the windows covered up. They said they couldn't tell me anything at all about what I would be doing, or what I would be working on, but they assured me that it would be great work. I never got the plant tour. I have no idea why they singled me out, and I didn't take the job, so I have no idea what it was. Clearly military. B-2 maybe? Almost took it, but didn't. So we were almost work-mates. You, me and the other 45000?

LOL. Yeah, it kinda makes me wonder a little too. There have been people who have "constructed" a fuel injection relay out of two independent generic relays. I wonder if those people included those additional components.

Yes, I believe with a power source and some crafty meter work, one could determine if those extra components are included with the Bosch unit. I suspect they are. Oh, and by the way... There are two diodes inside the assy (not just one), so I edited my post above. Hmmm... I'd have to look into that, but I bet the ramifications are unpleasant. Probably not "light the car on fire" unpleasant, but maybe "fuel pump runs when it shouldn't" kind of unpleasant. If you want me to dig into it, let me know.

Exhaust leaks can make a ticking sound. And the injectors are supposed to click. So between all that and the solid lifters going clickety-click, I can't tell if the noises on the video are a big deal or not. I suggest look into fixing the exhaust leak(s). Rule that out and then go from there. No. On solid lifters, if they aren't making noise, you've got a problem. You may run into a situation where there is something wrong which causes the ticking to become abnormally loud, but there should always be ticking from solid lifters.

According to the documentation, there are two diodes and resistor inside the original fuel injection relay. For me, the question is "Does that Bosch relay have those three two additional internal components?"

Because (as mentioned above), 95% is not 100%. Since your in the flight business... If 100 flights were to come into your local airport and 95% of them landed safely. And, of course, one other possibility is that it's a mutation variant that is able to slip through the existing vaccine. That's why even if you don't think you need it for yourself, do it for all the other people you come into contact with. We're all in this together and if you don't get vaccinated, you're potentially the Petri dish for the virus to mutate. If you want to get back to normal, get your vaccine!!

Here's a couple threads with info on compressing the bumper shocks: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55336-collapsing-shocks-to-push-bumpers-closer-to-body/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64753-depressing-early-260z-bumper-struts/

Wait... Are you asking if I've done something just like that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VomBuudIDsM

Won't work. You'll be able to calculus the living crap out of it, but the car just doesn't respond to Fourier transforms, Laplace Transforms, OR diffy Q.

My Gerstner. It's absolutely the centerpiece of my workbench. I got it a number of years ago from a retired machinist who used it for decades at his work. When he was showing it to me, he was pointing out blemishes and little scars and telling me that it would be pretty easy to strip it and refinish it. I asked him why would I spend time taking out all the history and personality that he so lovingly put into it? He beamed.

Close enough. 78 FSM says .20 intake, and .25 exhaust. Both cold. The interesting thing (for me) would be to try to figure out why yours are adjusted so tight. Was it a mistake by the last person who was in there, or has something moved and closed up the gap over the last bunch of miles? Unless the adjuster lock nuts are loose or something, it'll probably be impossible to determine, but I'd spend some small amount of time trying.

Make sure you put the flare nut on before you flare the tubing.

Make sure you put the flare nut on before you flare the tubing.

They make specific "glass buffing" stuff... Cerium oxide. I've not looked into the specifics, but I assume it's harder than what they use in paint compounds.

Before you scrape it, I would try some solvents. Acetone, Methanol. Maybe some paint remover? Might get lucky and find something that will just wipe it off?

I can already tell you that the lash on most of your valves is too tight. The back side (non-lobe side) of the lobes should never be clean like that. That's a sign that the valves are never completely closing and the base circle is rubbing all the way around. And valves that never close can make some strange noises sometimes. I can hope that it's as simple as that?

This is hanging on my toolbox for a task I've been meaning to get to:

pogden, Sounds like great progress. And to add a little more detail to what Steve mentioned above... The Volt warning lamp does more than just light up when there's an issue. It also supplies "bootstrap" current to the alternator system to get it up and working properly when you first start the car. As you found out, you should use an incandescent bulb in that application or things might not work right. Obviously.

Yeah, I'd be happy to help if it weren't at the opposite corner of the state. Upper left corner is about seven or eight hours away from the lower right. I agree on the purpose of those plastic plugs... Back in the old days, they would drill holes, stick a wand in to spray rust preventative goop inside and then plug the holes with caps like that. The most well known company was "Ziebart". I can't believe they went right through the VIN tag though. "My boss says I need to put the holes one foot apart. So I put the holes one foot apart. That's my job."

Just trying to do my part. For solidarity, I got lucky too. Did a happy dance:

There's no way I would reuse that bolt. I would chuck up the remains of the bolt in the lathe and drill a hole in the end. Do the same thing to the threaded stump, and then turn a metal dowel pin to fit the holes. Press the dowel pin into place to align the two while you run a small weld bead around where it broke. If your welding skills are good, they say "the weld is stronger than the base metal".