Zsled

Does anyone know if these type of carbs are better or worse than the SU Round Tops? This set was listed on ebay also check out his other items listed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33550&item=1876663614 Any Feedback Helpfull

Will a wiper motor out of a 1982 DATSUN 280 ZX fit in a 72 240z. I am not worried about the Wiring I have access to both year diagrams. I am more interested in knowing how much if any modifications I will have to do it or my 240 to get it to fit. This motor seems to be more available than the early year models. Thanks James

I have seen tips in this diam, but this is an actual muffler in the tips; the inlet to the twin tips is only 1.34 and I was hoping to find a 2.25. Do they make these tips/exhaust with the 2.25 inlet?

So today I completed the install of a new exhaust system on my 72' 240z. It has the stock L24 with no mods. I swapped a motorsport auto header out of my 75' 280 into this car. It is the 6 to 1 style header. So here it goes... I have a header, out to a 2.25 inch pipe with about 10 inches to a Glass pack (Bullet Muffler). From this muffler it does 2 bends to a Turbo Tip! This is actually a twin tip that has been filled with glass. This whole set up from the header to the tip cost me $80 USD. The header and Tip I had, So the collector and the bullet muffler with the tubing made up the rest of the $$$. I am writing this to let you know that I have almost no loud res. in the cockpit. It is actually quieter than the old stock manifold with the turbo tip. I was told by 2Many that the bullet muffler would do the trick! He was right. One down side is the Glass packed filled twin tip is actually only 1.34 inches in diam. I would like to find a 2.25 inch tip to replace this one. Thanks

Any help would be appreciated. I am looking specifically for a SU Guru. I purchased the car listed in my gallery and just recently put a Header and new exhaust on it. This car was bought in the Seattle area and tuned 3 months prior to me bringing it to Dallas. Needless to say the air to fuel is all off.

Has anyone ever replaced there stock muffler with this item from Motorsport Auto? It says that it replace the muffler, but the note says that it is not to be used with non catalytic convert or removed pre-muffler cars. I currently have an older Monza dual tip exhaust system mated to the stock manifold. It sounds like the old british sports cars. I am installing a header in the morning and I wanted to buy one of these to replace the old monza exhaust system. Any experience with these items. WIll I see any issues running the header and turbo tip? Thanks

Ok, so today I got the balls to go at the tranny install on the 75' 280z. The 4spd came out of my 72' 240. This went almost flawless... It took 3 hours due to R&R ing the Intake and Exhaulst manifolds so i could get the tranny in. The exhuast has a header and it prevented the straight up motion of the jack. So this thing went pretty smoothly. Now the fun part... This 75' is original and it has 547,000 documented miles on it. It is registered with Nissian and the only other Vehical registered with them is a 69 truck in AZ with 640,000 miles on it. I have decided to sell it. Any Takers. I want to put all my time in the 240Z. I like the whole choke and vintage feel of the car.

I recently swapped tranny's on my 240 and in the process broke the studs on the original ex. manifold. The question is... can you replace the studs or do you have to replace the manifold all together? PLease HElp I need this fixed fast... I am having Z withdraws :disappoin

The verdict is in.... It was the throw out bearing! there is less than 2mm difference between the 72 to 75. The reason it wouldn't pull out after the initial stab was due to the angle of the tranny to motor. IT IS A MUST TO BLOCK THE MOTOR PRIOR TO PULLING THE TRANNY. If you fail to do this it will not allow you to pull the tranny back out. With that said I am now going to try and tackle the install of the 4spd into the 75 where the 5pd came out of. Wish me luck!

Sorry, It took so long to get back with you. I sent you an email. My pc did the blue screen of death last night. I am running XP first time I have seen this since I installed it a year ago.

Hey I was thinking of powder coating my header and coil over springs. Has anyone done this? Will the headers flake? Will the springs flex cause the powder coat to crack?

I have a new one in the box with the armrest black for a 75 280. If your interested. It is still in the bubble wrap. I have seen a couple on ebay. I also have a full Dash cap for the same year model. Just yell if your intrested.

Funny, I just found this site and was doing the Homer DOOHHH! yell in my office! I had swapped the throw out bearing between the 280 and 240 due to the sound of the bearing. I took the 240 throwout arm and the 280 throwout bearing and mated them to the 280 5spd. I then put this combo into my 240z! No, I never got them apart. When I took it to the tranny shop here local, they gave me the WTF look and said some smart @$$ comment about you stick to your trade and we will stick to ours. If I had not been using them for years I would have taken it somewhere else.

This weekend I attempted (key word) to swap my 4spd out of 240 with my 5spd out of my 280. The unistall out of both cars went fairly quickly. I swapped out the rear diff. mounts and then washed both tranny's off. At this point I swapped out the throwout bearings and throwout arm. The clutch pistons I left intact due to the aforemention swap. After jacking the 5spd into posistion I fitted the engine and tranny together and bolted them together. I then bolted the rear crossmember in place. I tried to put the clutch piston in place and then noticed the initial problem. The throwout arm would not move at all. I then unbolted the whole unit and tried to seperate them. This was NOT happening. The tranny and engine would NOT seperate. I worked on it for 4 hours. I finally gave up and spent today taking it to a local tranny shop. Any Suggestions? I know I will be out 150 to get it done, but I would like to know what I did wrong.

Ok Guys, In the morning I am pulling the 5spd out of 75 280 and installing it into my 72 240 is this pretty painless? Anything speacial I need to do to acomplish this. Second, I am have some oil leak out of the rear main of the engine on the 72 240. I previously owned a 69 mustand with a 351w in it. I was able to replace the rear main without pulling the engine apart. Is this possible on the L24 with the tranny out.

Hey, how far is Miami from Pottboro, TX ( Lake Texoma )? I need a good fellow Z guru. Wanna come out and Play?

Mr Camouflage Thanks for the info, it has been ripped to my Z file folder! As far as reading your other post... Well what can I say... I am a newbie to this forum. They should issue a handbook out.

Marty , two more things... Mileage: Speedo says 22,475 ( assuming a roll over ??) Paint: Per the threads it has been repainted to a red color as it was silver originally. I can say that all the door jams, trim ledges and under carriage has been painted the red. The Gas tank looks new and the arms on the rear and front look new or painted as do the strut towers and components. Bushings: all look new! Event the steering coupler. BTW, are you kin to any Braga's in the Cleaburne, TX area?

Marty, Here is how it shakes out. It is pretty much straight. The roof has a few what look like impressions from like a box or something. The left front inspection lid is slightly bent as if someone put to much pressure on it. The nose of the car took a tap that has placed a slilver dollar size dent in the very tip and it must have moved the bumper around cause the bolt holes on the wings and front apron are a little mangles but the front has no damage to the sheet metal. The under carriage look amazing. The drivers side floor pan is showing a little rust on the surface where it meets the firewall under the car. The inside floors, firewall and deck look factory new. The viynal is all there with little nicks and faded a tad. The dash has 2 hairline cracks in it and the Clock even works. The headliner has a small dime size push through in it and the door panel are mint. The drivers carpet is the only negative thing it has popped its buttons and is moving around under use. The center console where the choke lever is has a small crack in it and the lever has been attatched to a new bracket under the console. The radio is a early 90's add and one of the owners put a set of 6x9's in the tool boxes behind he seats. The tires were like new and the rims need to be polished, they are the american racing alumi. The engine has a small oil leak, like a drop when let sit over 24 hrs out of the real main. The tranny shifts smooth and the car is locked on when it come to running. After the 2274 mile road trip back through a major snow storm and ice fields, I opened it up on our straight Texas Highways and it shifted out of 3rd at 105mph close to 5800rpm, with a surge into 4th. To answer your question... Man I feel like I robbed this guy. The car is everything I could dream of out of a 30yr old car. The young man selling the car was a Marketing Rep for Electronic Arts studio ( EA Sports ) and he was relocating to Canada so he wanted to sell it. He has no previous history on the other owners. He told me that after I called he had 7 people call and beg to come see it and he even said 2 different guys said they would come give the money right that day if he would sell it to them. ! Thanks for letting me get it. The car is a total diamond. All I have to do is polish. Total price... Car $900 Plane Ticket $157 Fuel $145 Hotel $89 Total $1291.00

What year model rear end are you looking for?

Not to play devils advocate! I have a 1972 and I have a sticker under the Choke light on center console that says (Choke). The sticker original looks like it is black with silver lettering. Mine is really faded and now it is silvered washed out. I would like a new one too!!

2ManyZ's you said the magic words. I pulled up the carpet today and the whole interior under the carpets is silver. I personally like the silver better than red. Greattttttt! I used to belong to a Mustang community rebuilding a 69 mustang coupe and they kept me going with all the answers to my questions. As they did before you guys are coming through for me today. Thanks guys. Now to get it to the body shop for paint Back to Silver. BTW this car has only minor rust on the rear deck panel of the rear hatch. It actually lines up with the rubber plugs on the rear hatch. is this a fairly easy panel to replace or should I concentrait on the rust holes themselves and cut and bondo. The rust section on both sides would be the size of a 2 inch cirlce.

Is there a site or book or anything that I kind put in my vin and or door plate and get a breakdown of the factory configuration? I just want to make sure that the Red on Red was original. I mean the car can be seen in my photo gallery. Take a look and let me know if this was a rebuild, but I have gone over this car with a fine tooth comb and I have am simply amazed. I purchased this car for $900.00 in Seattle, WA and drive it back to TX last week. 2274 miles in 2 1/2 days.