JDMjunkies.ch

Should fit the heater hoses. but have to check it out. Mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted into the package. got it at mspeed Japan: http://mspeed-japan.com/product_information.php?category_id=7

You just have to love the days, when this is in your mailbox (or next to it): But let's start in chronological order. On saturday i decided it's time to get rid of the old paint (Part two) of the lately acquired chin spoiler. Since the weak paint stripper (stronger ones are forbidden now in Switzerland). didn't do anything i got out my CSD Disks and that worked pretty well.. Before: And about an hour later: Yesterday the first package then showed up at the door. A set of Dixcel front disks for the OEM Brakes (for use with the MK63 solid type calipers). I decided to go for the optional black painted center-hubs, just for the looks and to prevent the area from surface rust, which is quite common there... And today some more stuff showed up at my door. Pitworks oil filter (mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted in the same box for free..) The lately released Hayashi oil filler cap. in an awesome packing that only the japanese can do Set of genuine JAF Emblems (not sure if i will put them on the car, but i liked it). will post some details about this in another post... Mspeed firewall rubber grommet Well and a little blingy Z-keychain (From mspeed), because i didn't have anything to put my keys on and it fitted in the package for free.. Set of NOS brake pads. not interested in the pads themselves, but needed the metal-shims, which i messed up from my original set... Then some reading stuff. Japanese Z-story book. looks promising but have to study it first: Japense (later version) Z432-R & 240Z Race & Rallye preparation manual... has lots of technical information about how to prepare the car and some additional information. Nostalgic Hero S30Z only book. Seems to have some interesting cars and information inside as well... Oh and then a beautiful set of old used but restoreable Enkei mag wheels... Unfortunately the Shirt and Wheels are not for me or my project. I just helped a friend get them here. but because they're nice i thought i'd share the pictures anyway

Thanks for your Input. I'll take it with a grain of salt. Meanwhile i've learned that many (especially older) documents are full of mistakes. Even the factory documentation is not 100% correct in some cases but it seemed like it includes a lot of Background Information, normally not found in the official (technical) documents.

Time for another update. I lately stumbled on the Nissan / Datsun USA Technical service bulletin about the change of the hatch window rear defroster lines from Vertical to horizontal: Since i had been wondering why my cars (which were built close together) came with two different types of windows, which i figoured out lately, it cought my interest and i started to look closer. Car 1. SNR: HLS30-56801 came with horizontal lines. Registered in March 1972 Car 2. SNR: HLS30-59660 came with Vertical lines.Registered in May 1972 Strange enough, the SNR of my (European spec) cars are one Digit shorter than the ones mentioned in (American) Service bulletin. Both my cars were built in late 1971, but i assume the date in the Service bulletin is not the production date of change, but the release date of the document. Given the lead time of the cars from production to first registration in switzerland, and the lead time from Production change to the release of the Service bulletin. i guess my two cars, built close together just happend to be around the change. Also it is a prove that there is nothing like a "Series 1" car mentioned often. My "older" car doesn't have the vented hatch / side emblems, but it still came with "old" type window. Service bulletin 231 (1975 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). So i guess we just got a different vin-Block for european cars? I checked both my stamped serials as well as the VIN-plate. Both my cars only have HLS30-5digits Oh and then got some interesting read from the UK. Race & Rally Magazine, Jan. 1993 It features 16 Pages intresting background information about the Works 240Z rallye cars. Including a variety of side-stories around them. Still have to read through it, but it seems very promising

outstanding work man. love the attention to details!

Dear Kats, thank you so much for this rare insight and information. Really interesting read. As for the topic, i'd like to add a few of my own documents. 1. The swiss 240Z Sales brochure which i got from my good friend Stefan a while ago. These are scans from above original printed sales brochure which he found and donated to me. It was found in an old stock at an ex Datsun, now nissan Dealership. Enjoy the read While the B/W pictures inside are probably some Nissan / Datsun stock photos, the one on the first and last pages (red colored car) show the typical Swiss car with front and rear spoiler, which is also mentionend especially in the text about aerodynamics. Most cars were delivered like that over here. It's a common practice for swiss car import companies (like nissan switzerland) to add parts, which are optional in other markets, as a standard feature to boost "sportiness" of a car, as switzerland has a higher density of sporty cars compared to surrounding countries. It's also interresting to see how they advertised it by explaining the aerodynamics with some details, with it's rallye heritage and with the fact that it was very popular in america. In general the description is very technical. really trying to explain how good and simple the car is. Quite funny when comparing it with todays sales brochures, which is all about emotions and how practical a car is. 2nd: The swiss homologation fiches in french, Which i got from t he swiss car registry office. On a side note, we have four official languages in switzerland (german, french, italian and romanian). So most docuements are available in italien, french an german, while romanian is only for a small part of switzerland which all of them also speak a second official language. What is particulary interresting here is the second page: It says the chassis used for homologation was HLS30-00243 and the document was released on 6. May 1970. in the additional notes at the bottom it mentions which bulbs have to be used for the lamps. It also mentions the IKI 5004 side markers used and that they had to install a second set of taillights (type ULO K 11254), since the original set that came with the car was leaky. on the third page (additinional sheet, this time in german) there were some later informations like - what kind of lamps where installed Note fom 10. november 1971) - Where the car's serial number is found (note from 19. July 1972) - Note from 7. February 1973, that from Chassis-nr HLS30-132850 a brake boost / force limiter (don't know the official english word for it) was installed for the rear brakes, to reach the braking performance requirements, which were introduced after the car's initial homologation.

It's a bit off-Topic so maybe we can discuss this in a personal conversation. I Totally get your Point. same here. Just wanted to mention that i have mentioned your Name at several places on my Website, and if i've missed it at some Point, please let me know, i will very happily update it with your Name. Sometimes i just don't remember where i got the data from several years back. Also i missed to post sources in the early Posts, which i've changed since then. Also it is free to anyone to comment on my blogposts in the comments section. i release and comment every comment there. As said, i totally get your Point and it was never my Intention to offend you or anything near that. I really appreciate the snippets of informations you spread along the interwebs. Together with the Information i have from original documentation (which i have to purchase from around the world as well), non factory documentation, FIA-homologations, etc. I try to puzzle together those Posts. It would sometimes already be very helpful to just know where i can get the information. i don't want to be lazy, i work for my Information. The big difference is that you seem to have far better sources and a bigger Network than me. so it makes it hard to get some informations that other have, and therefore complete things. Also please, in future, if you feel like i've done something in a wrong matter, let me know directly - i will try my best to get it right. we're grown up men after all, right? nevertheless thanks again for your Inputs and it's really a joy to read your Posts. Cheers

Hope it's ok i used this Picture from you to prove my fail on my blog? Thanks for your work. It's so obvious, i even got some NOS boxes with similar Stickers on it, i really wonder why i never got it

OK guys, i just came across this thread by accident and i'd like to let you know: 1) I'm the guy with the JDMjunkies.ch blog and Project build 2) as i state on my Suspension post, i tried my very best to get all the Information right and it was all the Information i had at the Point when i wrote the post. 3) I also stated that you should let me know if you have any corrections and can prove it. So this all makes sense and i updated the Information on my blog. Feeling a bit guilty for missing such an obvious Point. but yeah - $^!# happens, right? Thanks for your Input. Next time, please let me know directly if you know more. At least some guy shot me a message yesterday to tell me the correct Thing. Whoever it was - thanks, mate! Also @Alan, i asked you several times (Both in private Messages in several Forums and in the threads directly) about some data which i know you own, to complete my Posts. Like the MK63 post i'm currently working on. but unfortunately you never even replied to me... I think it's very hard to find useful and collected Information online in some cases and i try my very best to get it right and get the Information together in a useable way for the General public. I know some People have quite the knowledge and own all the documents, but i try to make it accessible for all in a more general way. So bear with me if some Information got wrong along the way. Again i try my very best to have it right and confirmed with official documents or trustworthy sources. So sorry for my mistake and i really appreciate your Inputs to improve my texts.

Time for a little more knowledge today After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today: The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings. For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop. Top: Front PU / rear Rubber Bottom: Front PU / rear PU 1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise. Second: Front PU / rear rubber. You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake. So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate

The more i read, the more confused i get. Nevertheless, i try to order a set of OEM rubber bushings and try to figure it out Thanks for all your advice, guys!

In this thread, someone recommands to put the rubber in front: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26238-my-swiss-1972-s30-240z-rebuild-project/page-33#entry1544974 question is if it breaks due to Compression (and the rod bending) or due to the movement / angle, as you say. not sure yet which is the correct route. both explanations seem plausible...

Thanks for the input guys! appreciate! Already heard that from a few other sides as well so guess i will go that route. @captain obvious, wouldn't it make sense to have the front one in ruber and the rear one on urethane? the front one beeing the compression bushing, right? or am i wrong?

Thanks for the advice. think i heard about that before. where do you get new rubber bushings? Hi Marcel. it's really soft, it will bend easily by it's own weight once you lift it up. Where are you from? if you're near you're free to have a look at it. You can even lend it to make an exact copy or so... Just hit me with a PN.

A while ago i discovered some NOS parts on a german Sales ad website and contact the seller. few days later i got some NOS parts in my mailbox A 5-speed transmission clutch fork incl the retainer spring: two drum-brake slave cylinders (keen-eyed readers might note that i got two left-sided items) And a set of drum-brake hardware: More parts are on the way from japan currenty. and while waiting, i decided to strip the various layers of old paint from the Euro-chin spoiler with the simple use of some pressurized air and a spatula. before... at least five layers of different primers and paint: and here's the result. yeah, still two layers to go, but this one is tuff. even the paint stripper didn't work on this. wonder what it is.. probably have to sand it down by hand.. no hurry though, at least i don't have old paint peeling off from it and messing the storage space now anymore... Oh, and almost forgot i had all the parts for the doglegs ready since a while but never assembled them... So did that today, freshly powdercoated doglegs, zinc plated hardware and new Polyurethane bushings. next to a pair of old unrestored doglegs

This is another little project that has been under work for a while and is finally completed A while ago i wanted to re-assemble the transmission crossmember with the new Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. They're stated to fit all 240Z years on their website: However, when i tried to install it, it didn't fit at all... The metal tube was too long to fit inside the outer mounting bracket and had a wrong diameter, the bushings had a completely wrong shape too and didn't fit anywhere.... It was only then i figoured out there are at least three different types of transmission crossmembers and they do not fit the type i got i got: I tried to find a supplier, but they weren't available. But when i asked Jakub Nurzaj from DPAN Europe he immediately told me that he could make a set for me... So i took some measures and we double checked a few things, before the first series went into production. Yesterday i was finally able to pick them up at the postal office and the first look was promising. Here's a comparison between energy bushings (left) and Jakub's bushings (right) the difference is small but i can assure you the ones to the left don't fit at all... So today i was finally able to install them (use some bushing grease!) Fitment is spot on and tight. perfect! I cannot thank Jakub enough for the work he put into this and i'm happy i could support him. The bushings are now available from Jakub Nurzaj from the DPAN Europe facebook page. Contact him if you need these. Here's how the crossmember looked before restauration: And here's the completed, freshly powdercoated transmission crossmember with freshly zinc plated bolts and the NISMO / Kameari Transmission mount. Looking cood. Another Puzzle-piece complete. Thanks again to Jakub for the awesome work!

sorry, wrong thread

Sometimes you find the coolest things when you don't even search for them. I always thought the "euro" front lip / chin spoiler was cool but it's somehow rare these days to find one and i thought i go the route with the xenon front bumper. However when i was searching for some other parts i accidently stumbled upon a pretty rough looking but still salvageable OEM front spoiler lip. I contacted a few people to confirm it's the real deal and then made the payment. few days later and i could pick it up at the postal office today: One of the mounting brackets is missing (broken off) and another one seems to have been replaced with a custom made piece over the years. but otherwise it's in quite good shape, as long as the old paint gets removed. It's made from Urethane rubber so pretty soft and you can bend it like you want

My initial plan was to check it with a 12V power supply and measure the falling voltage as explained in the Manual (In my opinion that's the best test) But after seeing how bad the wires were, i checked the one in picture two with an Ohm-meter and there was no connection. Didn't measure all the wires and never checked the window with the vertical lines (which i think is easy to repair, sine the wires ares till good). But i think the one with the horizontal wires is beyond an easy fix. needs full re-wiring and i haven't seen any shop doing it over here so far... and unfortunately companies only sell new windscreens, no hatch windows... Interesting input however - Thanks!

I got a request for a 240Z Rear window for sale, so i thought it might be a good reason to get my small power supply and Multimeter out and check them. Unfortunately i didn't even need my tools. It was already clear by visually checking them that both window defrosters are toast, even if the glass was OK on both. The resistive threads have oxidated and vanished in large areas: It even seems like one of them had some kind of burn at one point: You can't really see it bot some of the threads are almost gone totally and there's only some leftovers from the original glue. Really wonder how that could happen. but it seems to be a common problem. One of them even had one of the bigger threads loose. I know it's all repairable with stock-on thread wires, but not sure yet how nice i can do it and if it's worth the effort. Either i need a new glass or have it repaired by a pro. Strange enough i figoured out i have both a vertical and a horizontal wired hatch glass. even if both my cars were built in late 1971. so either they were used longer than mentioned everywere, or it has ben swapped at one point in the past. strange enough the one with the vertical lines (the earlier version)is in way better condition with only one small area damaged and the rest still quite solid...

Absolutely. Same with tabco. Don't want to offend anybody and i'm happy These parts exist too. The other parts helped me a lot with the build, even if they needed to be modified a bit it still better than making them from scratch if you cannot do it by yourself.

One common rusty area of most S30 Z's are the floors. The only supplier of floor pans i know is from zeddfindings (http://www.datsunzparts.com/ ). The Problem is. they look good at first sight, but upon closer inspection they don't fit really well. The main Problem beeing the longitudial Bump in the the middle which should be above the frame-rail isn't aligned proper. So basicall you have to cut it up and re-do most of the work. That's what the bodyshop told me when i brought them my floorpans for repair. And 240Z restorers told me the same. so it wasn't just my part which was bad. So a while ago i looked for another solution and came a cross datsun Club Hungary. They restore a few cars a year and make their own floorpans. while not officially for sale in a shop or so, they offered me one set when i asked them. Not cheap, but worth the Money. and they appear to be mostly hand-made too. The reason i trusted them to make good Quality stuff is mainly because they make their floorpans for their own concours-Level restaurations useage and not just for selling them to People with no clue... Here's a Little comparison. First difference you will immediately note is the size difference. with the Hungarian floorpans there is some spare metal to Play with. Another big difference is the "dent" on the Driver side seatrail which is there originally in early z-cars, but non-existant in the american floorpans from Zeddfindings. last but most important: The longitudial "dent" is perfectly aligned with the Frame rail and no additional cutting-up and welding needed aside from the usual fitment work... I really hope with the increasing Prices of the Z that manufacturers start to build Quality sheet metal stuff. the parts available currently are sadly of terrible fitment and Quality...

I'll write a huge Post about the MK63 brakes soon (just waiting for some details), but one thing i can tell already is that they're usually installed without the backing plate. The brakes fit perfectly with the OEM Brakes (see below): But don't fit with the bigger MK63 brakes anymore, due to their bigger size. (see below) Also one of my backing plate was a bit denty.... So i decided to bring 'em to the bodyshop and have them modified to fit and straightened: Also made sure he puts back the "lip" that was there originally. He told me the lip is there in case of someone gets into the disk so it's a bit of a protection and safety thing... This is the result. Honestly i was hoping for a bit tighter fitment, but since you won't see it once the disk is installed it doesn't matter anyway. just my OCD calling here Next i will have it sandblasted and powdercoated.

Nothing big today, just picked up a bunch of parts at the paint stripping company. The green colour is wash-primer to protect it from rust. The grille parts. have to straighten a few things, waiting for two small vertical parts to be fabricated and then it will be ready to get assembled back together: And a set of front lower valances, the gas door and two front tow hooks:

Woohow! Another one of these little long-term projects finally completed. I failed several attempts to paint the ignition-switch surrounding ring and the Turn signal switch stalk by myself. The paint would be so easy to scratch off (with fingernails) afterwards that it would immetiately look terrible once you touch it with anything hard. So after i realized i suck at painting, i decided to hand it over to René, the paint wizard at Autolackprofis which i know from the Honda-scene back in the days and is one of the most recognized paintshops in (and outside) switzerland. He's also in charge of painting the car once it's ready (if he isn't retired by then :P) The result is stunning. We decided to go for an industrial grade paint which is stronger and more scratch resistant compared to normal car paint. Perfect So first in installed the painted ignition switch surrounding ring back to the switch: Then started to re-assemble the turn signal switch (See previous steps here) First installed the wire back completely with the switch contacts and the plastic spacer: Added dielectric grease to all the contacts to make sure they will operate smoothly and contact well for a long time: At the bottom end in added the little contact back to the spring and added dielectric grease as well. Added the switch plastic housing and the inside mechanism back to the stalk and measured. Unpressed: Infinite Ohms (no connection) Switch pressed: Zero Ohms (Short). That's what the switch does. if you press it it will short the 12V applied to it to the chassis-ground. So it works perfectly (Always check before doing next steps, you will hate yourself for not doing so if you figure out once it's installed) Install the stalk back to the switch assembly. Since i wasn't able to find a similar bolt used in the the original assembly, i just took a zinc plated nail in the same dimensions, cut it off and made it fit After that it's time to get the wires back together. Don't forget to add the heat shrinking tube before you solder... Soldered wires back together and heat shrinking tube is shrunk to the original shape: And secured using the small little clamp: Think it ended up really well. checked all the functions and everything works, feels solid and looks great... and definitely much cleaner compared to the original dusty switch, which was completely covered in old dirty grease. I'm super happy to have completed another little project that took my quite some time