Patcon

Will be interesting to hear your feedback on it's effectiveness.

The 3 psi loss when revving is really odd to me. I think Zed is thinking in the right direction.

I agree with Zed. To get a different volume, one section would have to have more stroke or a larger bore. I don't see how thats possible with the design of the master cylinder. Maybe the outlets have different restrictions in them?

If it was me, I would put it in after the interior roof trim was in and before anything else. The extra room to move around will make it easier

My first concern would be something got forgotten or overlooked. I have seen things like this happen before where they forgot to pull the rags out of a port before reassembling, etc. C

Basically, yes. What do you think changes the output of one port versus the other? Although Wilkes might have answered that...

I don't know if I would dispute this but why do you think this is so?

I'm not a fan of the gauge he selected but it should still be a reasonable indicator even if it doesn't last very long. I would start at the pan if it was me. My first concern would be a blocked up oil pick up or something before the pump. You would think even a worn out pump would have increased pressure when revving even if it's too low.

Somethings wrong if revving it doesn't move the gauge some. Professionally rebuilt by whom? My first thing would be an oil change. Look for problems with the oil. Next would be pulling the pan and checking sump pickup. Maybe my first thing would be pull the valve cover first and check for oil flow there...

Correction... The red white in this picture is 10ga if I remember right, The other two are14ga All three are 14 ga in this picture

So is there a crimp in the harness somewhere?

On another note, how is the clutch master sealed to the firewall? Gasket, sealant, nothing?

So you're saying I might have to replace both connectors to the headlights if the VC connector doesn't line up just right. Also one of the ones to the headlights in the harness looks to be a red 10ga. All the rest of the cut wires appear to be 14ga. There is a plain red 14 ga too apparently

So I'm thinking I'm going to replace the headlight wires in this harness. I will weave new wires in the harness while I rewrap it. What colors do I need? (R/W, R/Y, R, R/B?) What gauge wire matches the factory gauge? Also does the Vintage Connections kit have the correct headlight plugs in it? Thanks C

Integra

and if you replace one, I would replace both. Even though they might be expensive. They tend to have some wear in the orifice and a matched pair will be easier to tune and get running right. I might also consider replacing the needles too if they show any signs of rubbing

Ztherapy has them listed in their price list. $120 a pair...

Huh! I guess I didn't post them...

Are those the headlight plugs they cut off?

Worked on a couple of clutch masters a little more Got the grease cleaned out of one. That is actually one pf the harder parts. Polished the bore with some 1000 grit. Bead blasted the aluminum parts What is the valving at the end of the piston? How does it work? I have this vintage rebuild kit Does anyone know what the finish was on this screw? Yellow zinc or clear?

If I'm understanding correctly, no it's not normal. Have you looked in the oil filler cap with the engine running? Are you seeing oil slinging around? Did the oil pour our of the hole where the oil sender was threaded when you unthreaded it?

I agree, thats a pretty low number for a car like that. I really think you are seeing the same freefall in classic car prices we saw in 2008 & 09. Hopefully it won't get too out of hand.

How did you decide on what Orings to order?

Thanks Jim I had considered going that route