Patcon

Just slightly over 1/8"

It's good you qualified that statement!

There are a couple of challenges with this method. Wintergreen oil is expensive! Buy the commercial version not the essential oil version. Also you have to use a lidded container to prevent tthe alcohol from flashing off. The rubber boots are marginally larger than the petrified version. It's possible they're swollen or maybe they were originally that size and shrunken with age. Difficult to know... But so far so good.

I missed that. I guess it was Obvious to everyone else ...😁

Also, what is the fuel system? Flat tops? Round Top SU's?

So as an update. I tried softening the rubber caps that go to the fuel sender. I tried silicone spray like Mark suggested. Nothing... Now these were rock hard, we were afraid to flex them for fear of breaking them. I wish I had made a video... So I tried Wintergreen oil but instead of water and heating them I used denatured alcohol 1:1. I heated the rubber parts slightly with a heat gun. Let soak overnight. AMAZING!! They were tremendously soft. I mean really good. It has been a week since I pulled them out and they are still nice and soft. I ordered some more oil because I needed more volume. I am going to try it on Cody's Goon's filler neck. Sort of an unobtainium piece...

Another of SteveJ's tricks is to spray compressed air upside down onto the ignition module when it acts up to cool it. If the problem goes away that tends to narrow the problem down to that module. As they age they can act up when they get hot.

I'm not sure what the original finish was on these screws Rivet is basically a 3/32 rivet. The box I have of them is unmarked

I think you're starting with the right idea. Insure it at a high level and it should get well taken care of

I have something on the rivets. I will try to look tomorrow

The oil pressure numbers look good. I wouldn't be worried about those! The burning you see is probably oil from running the engine with the valve cover off. It will burn off. Shouldn't be a problem. Dipsticks are not a super precise measuring instrument. If the oil is on the dipstick it will be fine IMHO.

I would much prefer my dash gauge being wrong and having 38 psi at idle and more revving than what you had before. Now you have a gauge issue but not a mechanical engine issue! I would consider that progress!

Yeah, the red stitching is too much for me...

That's good progress. I'm not surprised you had two dash pieces when I saw that crack... Dogs are the best!

I agree with Zed's thought process. To have lower pressure than idle when revving would be an exceptional loss of pressure. So open oil galley. Bad oil pump. Missing or broken spring in the oil pump(an easy check). Something really strange...

I assume that #5 dropped a zero and is actually 0.0028 not 0.028... Not super consistent gaps but I agree with X that that is probably not where the problem lies

Plastigage?

Love the half shafts!

You would use plastigage and remove one bearing cap. Install plastigage. Retorque cap and then remove the cap and analyze the crushed plastigage.

Idk how compression would change the motor emissions

Until cash isn't an option 😞

I did some looking but can't tell. There is a California dealer but he could be selling to Smog exempt owners

I don't think smog will be able to tell what the compression ratio is. Whether you can get the EFI to run properly with it, is another story. You could always add a rheostat on the temp side of the EFI to dial it down some but that still might not work. If I were going to build a motor and wanted more power, I would probably ditch the factory EFI. It's not very tunable. Build what you have to and get it running and then mod it after you move and know what the new rules will be at your new address. High compression motor with SU's, or SU throttle bodies, ITB's or go turbo. with as much displacement as you can afford

$385

Where did you source the wheel?