Patcon

I did try that, multiple ways. With the voltage all the way up, which should make the current adjustable and constant I could only get 0.7 amps. Motorman7 What power supply are you using?

Are you sure the SU's you purchased are for a Datsun? Also what size are the bores? There are multiple Datsuns that ran SU's in different sizes and other cars that ran the SU design also...

Ok, it's been a year and it's time to hit this again. I worked on my plating setup today and tried to do some plating...I was unsuccessful I am using this power supply that I purchased from another forum member with some Caswell heaters. I haven't run a full test but the power supply seems to working properly but I can't get my current up high enough... Sorry about the rotation, they show horizontal on my laptop until I add them here. The wire I'm using and the aquarium pump from Harbor Freight. The wire came from Michaels I believe. I thought the brass wire might have been painted but I have the same issue with the copper wire. Here is the current layout. Crock pot with SP degreaser in it on high. An acid tank in the next bucket after the power supply. The plating tank is this white bucket. Then I have an extra spot if I need it, then the yellow chromate tank in the 1 gallon bucket.. In the plating bucket I have the aquarium pump, the temperature sensor, the heaters and opposing zinc plates. I have done some reading and evidently the plating tank has very low resistance across it so the power supply doesn't want to raise the current. I added a 12v automotive bulb but still couldn't run the current up any higher than 0.7 Amps. Not nearly enough for my 5" copper pipe test piece. If I turn the voltage up any more I smoke the lamp. I also tried adding a regular 120v 60w bulb in series but again could raise the current up... Have any of you other guys had this issue with your power supply? I ordered a 1 Ohm 100 watt resister off Amazon. I hope that will get me going... @grannyknot @motorman7

I don't comment in this thread much but I want you to know I enjoy reading it and the pictures are fabulous. I will use them as information for my own build...

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55266-carlisle-import-performance-nationals-needs-show-cars-and-race-cars/ This is his thread

That all sounds good

PM cbukzesk He has a lot of parts spread out at Carlisle right now...

I like that drivers quarter, lots of badges and interesting stuff

nix240z has done this on his own Z, and he knows what it takes. You could try to patch the hole but it is hard to do with out warping the roof. The best method is re-skinning the whole roof about 150 spot welds...

That's the kind of advance I need...

Thanks Chuck I have to plan pretty far out to make these kinds of trips and work often gets in the way. I hope to start making more of these in the next few years...

Wish I were closer...

115mph in boat is hauling it...

Or you could contact one of the members parting cars. There are three currently I believe. I usually feel old used is better than new cheaply made...

I would love for you to provide some more details on what it a takes to go this route. If I were doing a car as a driver only I would be interested simply to upgrade the wiring, but since these cars many times switched the ground or had some other oddities I would like to know how hard it is to integrate a new harness to the chassis

I would agree with Guy. Especially if Rebello did the work...magnet anyone...

What he said...

Ahh puppies, that'll make you see red...

Is that a "surge tank" or an "intake plenum"? I may be mistaken

No hurry, thanks...

I saw that but I wasn't sure that wasn't under coater peeling off instead of rust. The big thing to me as far as an unknown is what is the premium on a very early car compared to a car like Grannyknots sub 2000 vin or a later sort of normal Vin car? I don't know but I would think with the recent appreciation in Z car values the very early cars would experience this even more so. If that is rust, then a color change or recent re-spray would scare me even more. A bad "fill it and paint it" would really hurt if you spent $50k on this car only to find the typical chassis rust in the floors, rockers, doglegs and quarters. While this might seem outlandish today I don't think the days of $100k Z cars is that far off. The really low number cars, properly restored will be bringing that in the next 7-10 years, maybe sooner. Especially if governments around the world keep printing money.... Hagerty has them at $50-60 right now, 10% appreciation compounded for 7 years doubles the value to $100-120k...

You know you are running right at the edge when you have 2 and 3 tires off the ground...

@sdyck If you remove the ac system, I may be interested in it although shipping might be kind of steep...

I agree the low vin is really appealing but the 50k is really too high. The car is obviously not "all original" and I would be concerned it has had a color change. If it is not the original color then a need to completely re-spray drops the value a lot. I would think $15,000 to $20,000 wouldn't be out of reason for an extremely low number car $30k at the outside. 50k....No

I looked a little bit. Everything I saw was NLA. I believe Fastwoman requested one of these kits years ago at the Nissan parts counter and they couldn't get them and they had never seen one