Patcon

I try the following when I have blow through issues: Turn the welder down (I have 12 settings on mine and have had to use #1 on certain areas of the car) Really short trigger burst Feed out more wire from the tip Put a piece of copper behind is to help distribute heat Is the gas too high

Thats a cool technique!

I don't understand. Where were you blowing through??

As a simple equation, most people divide the weight by hp 2300/325=7.0769 Thats close enough for government work. Anything below 10 moves really good; below 5 is scary fast! So 7 is really solid...

Superb, Rich!

The Rebello would be 7.07#s per horse The proto 8.75#s per horse. There are some missing pieces though. Modern suspension of the Proto would be a plus but there are aftermarket options that are competitive ABS is nice but I grew up without it and wouldn't miss it. The S30 is lighter and would be much more "tossable" if the contact patch was similar Might need some good brake upgrades The modern car would have some nice things built in: bluetooth, heated seats, leather, delay wipe, power mirrors and windows. All of which could be overcome My choice would be the S30... But I'm biased 😉

The Japanese steel was very good and the cross hatching in the cylinder bores is still visible after years of driving. Even on high mileage cars. I have found rust up high inside of the quarter panels and it is just from humidity. Cars from ocean communities can be be really rusty in the worst way from the salty air getting inside all the body cavities. I would think, the ideal way to do a proper rust treatment. Would be to find somebody to dip the car to remove all the rust but they would need to dip it when clean for a rust prevention. Passivating, galavanizing, zinc dip or zinc rich primer. I know people that offer stripper dip tank services but finding the second part might be th he problem

Check valve lash. You sound like you have a noisy lifter or two. I don't think its an exhaust leak...

I would argue that the steel used was excellent. Just look at how well the blocks hold cross hatching. The problem with the early cars wasn't the steel, it was the complete absense of any rust prevention. They didn't start galvanizing bodies until 78 or so??? A modern car would get a full passivating dip, so thats not a problem. Also modern cars use a wide range of exotic alloys to make them light but pass crash test. So not a significant issue. Also most modern cars are mono coupes, no frames anymore...

If you need a main bearing, its due for a complete rebuild. Try to pinpoint the issue before throwing parts at it

I suspect CAFE standards play a big part in the front end design. The sugar scoops are not very good for aero or the large open grill area. That being said, you would have to sell a lot of Zs for any mileage penalty to affect the overall fleet average

Be sure to have a digital meter standing by!

.77 to .75, unnoticeable

I would probably patch those. No need for a full floor. I would advise you to just get your exhaust welder to weld it up. You could possibly bend up the patches for him to save some time Lower the line under floor down and throw a wet rag over it.

The booster looks pretty close to right. Something else is going on

You could try to litigate but most are in China and pretty well shielded by the government. Also the courts are slow. By the time you get a judgement they have already moved shop and setup under a new name. Also, even if you got a judgement, how would you enforce it? The Chinese government isn't going to help. A huge part of their GDP and clear profits are from copies of brand name products.

Yes, I would think they would lathe them out completely or just partial and then install an interference fit liner. I don't know if they tack them or not

Merry Christmas! If you buy a devilbiss and it doesn't have this security label, it's probably a fake. Such a pretty color! SWMBO even liked it. 😉 Looking forward to loading it up. It also has an included digital gauge, which I wasn't expecting. Another nice thing about devilbiss guns, is many of them co.e with multiple tips. Which makes the really versatile. Sata tips are like $150-$200 a pop!

Overall travel doesn't matter as much as the assembly at rest. If the booster pushrod doesn't sit out too far to assemble the parts then you aught to be able to adjust it to work. I dont believe there were different length booster push rods

I would recommend calling Dave Rebello and see what his insight is. Just remember he's a busy man and makes money building engines and selling parts...

To my knowledge, all the aluminum drums have a steel liner.

Are both master cylinders similar in size? Is the depth from the mounting flange of the master to the back of the piston the same on both units?

@jonbill You were correct, good remote diagnosis

No body makes full rear quarters, th hat I know of. One of the better panel makes, might make the jambs for you

Is there a hole in the chassis there for a speaker?