Patcon

Also, you will have better success with the hose clamps if you use an actual JIS screwdriver!

A fully charged 12v battery should be 12.7 - 12.8v If its 12.2, 3 or 4. The battery is low

Good sleuthing!!

Yup in the main panel, not the drains. I would get some fine stainless mesh and melt it into the backside with a heating iron. I plastic weld panels a lot for the vehicles I repair. I'm not a fan of super glue. Really doesn't work that well in this situation. A good epoxy might work but the nice thing about plastic welding is it allows to to work the repair some when it gets soft and dress it smooth when it cools. I would mesh across the hole and repunch the hole when it cools. Google some videos for plastic welding.

I'm not following. what exactly are you trying to reattach?

Looks good. You made a quick job of that

Yes, I had to fold the end closed on the gutter I bought too.

Most of the damage related to broken driveshafts and flywheels and such are from high horse power drag racing scenarios. It can be very dangerous is you low quality parts in that situation. The original factory u joints are very high quality. If it's wasn't broke, I wouldn't break it. You might try to grease them though, if possible

If the floors were replaced , they may have deleted the factory retractor pockets

After having just browsed their offerings. I think on my next big Datsun project, I could just order a bunch of metal from them. Maybe, I will finish the car in that Chromate green as a tribute to their products 😉

Does the shaft actually need to be rebuilt??

Yes, 240z Look in my build thread. Lots of pics

Actually the car I have been working on does not have the correct radiator support for the year. I believe it is a 280z support, It seems to fit fine and all the panels line up. There are differences between the years but I still believe the critical dimensions are the same

Many flat top pistons have valve reliefs for this reason. I dont know that forged pistons are really neccessary.

They do vary over the models but I believe the critical dimensions are the same

@Diseazd I would think upping the compression and a better cam would really help. Diseazed would probably endorse the stage 3 cam. The bigger cam with more overlap will help with dynamic compression. I am basing this on the assumption that you don't have to do emissions testing as I have no idea where Canyon country is...

As a radical thought... This is basically a big air pump that blows up. Spark, fuel and air. So you think you have spark and fuel. What about air. Are the intake and exhaust ports on #1 totally clear. Could #1 have ingested a rag or something and be blocking up the intake valve? Just tossing it out there...

Wax it good before it's loaded and wash it when it gets there. You are asking for buffing damage to ship it covered. Also the paint is much less tolerant of damage than fiberglass would be...

Dont mind me, I was on sway bar not mustache bar

I have seen both kinds of bars. Forward and rearward bars. I would think it would depend on what bar you actually have. Did 280's come with factory supplied rear sway bars?

Thats what I was remembering but wasn't sure

I have never heard of annealing steel when working with it. Dirty materials is definitely harder to weld properly. I have done some mig work inverted. When using shield gas you may need to turn it up some and also avoid working in windy conditions, It can cause your shielding gas to disperse

Still straight and flat? I would think it got close to 230d F

Thats a good looking panel. Are you just hammer forming or something else?

24" overall diameter or 24" wheels w tires added?