Patcon

I assume that #5 dropped a zero and is actually 0.0028 not 0.028... Not super consistent gaps but I agree with X that that is probably not where the problem lies

Plastigage?

Love the half shafts!

You would use plastigage and remove one bearing cap. Install plastigage. Retorque cap and then remove the cap and analyze the crushed plastigage.

Idk how compression would change the motor emissions

Until cash isn't an option 😞

I did some looking but can't tell. There is a California dealer but he could be selling to Smog exempt owners

I don't think smog will be able to tell what the compression ratio is. Whether you can get the EFI to run properly with it, is another story. You could always add a rheostat on the temp side of the EFI to dial it down some but that still might not work. If I were going to build a motor and wanted more power, I would probably ditch the factory EFI. It's not very tunable. Build what you have to and get it running and then mod it after you move and know what the new rules will be at your new address. High compression motor with SU's, or SU throttle bodies, ITB's or go turbo. with as much displacement as you can afford

$385

Where did you source the wheel?

Will be interesting to hear your feedback on it's effectiveness.

The 3 psi loss when revving is really odd to me. I think Zed is thinking in the right direction.

I agree with Zed. To get a different volume, one section would have to have more stroke or a larger bore. I don't see how thats possible with the design of the master cylinder. Maybe the outlets have different restrictions in them?

If it was me, I would put it in after the interior roof trim was in and before anything else. The extra room to move around will make it easier

My first concern would be something got forgotten or overlooked. I have seen things like this happen before where they forgot to pull the rags out of a port before reassembling, etc. C

Basically, yes. What do you think changes the output of one port versus the other? Although Wilkes might have answered that...

I don't know if I would dispute this but why do you think this is so?

I'm not a fan of the gauge he selected but it should still be a reasonable indicator even if it doesn't last very long. I would start at the pan if it was me. My first concern would be a blocked up oil pick up or something before the pump. You would think even a worn out pump would have increased pressure when revving even if it's too low.

Somethings wrong if revving it doesn't move the gauge some. Professionally rebuilt by whom? My first thing would be an oil change. Look for problems with the oil. Next would be pulling the pan and checking sump pickup. Maybe my first thing would be pull the valve cover first and check for oil flow there...

Correction... The red white in this picture is 10ga if I remember right, The other two are14ga All three are 14 ga in this picture

So is there a crimp in the harness somewhere?

On another note, how is the clutch master sealed to the firewall? Gasket, sealant, nothing?

So you're saying I might have to replace both connectors to the headlights if the VC connector doesn't line up just right. Also one of the ones to the headlights in the harness looks to be a red 10ga. All the rest of the cut wires appear to be 14ga. There is a plain red 14 ga too apparently

So I'm thinking I'm going to replace the headlight wires in this harness. I will weave new wires in the harness while I rewrap it. What colors do I need? (R/W, R/Y, R, R/B?) What gauge wire matches the factory gauge? Also does the Vintage Connections kit have the correct headlight plugs in it? Thanks C

Integra