Patcon

Were there stickers on the cases where the grinder marks are?

I have found that mechanical pump valves stick sometimes. They can be opened up and broken loose. then reassembled. They tend to work fine after that...

I would think if you let it cure for a while it will be fine. I would like to know the paper towel bit was encapsulated...

The engine... Exquisite!

Did those come from Norm?

With too much beer, my inability to walk straight does not mean I don't desire to walk straight...

I bought a 73 240z one time and put it in the backyard. It took her a month to notice it...

I never been able to drink that much beer...

You need to find a good frame shop in your area. They can probably salvage that frame rail and pull the car back the way it needs to be...

I think I am 7 years in right now. the car is jambed out and ready to start putting some suspension back in and lines and such. If I got really serious I could be done in a year and a half but I have a large family and am self employed so these projects take a long time. If I live long enough that's good. If I don't then it's "all gain"...

I agree, if he just bought it for $25k and had bids to almost $59k that's a home run. Sell it!

I agree, feed it off an alternative fuel source to get it home

3 1/2 hours from me...Tell them to look me up if they're in the area...

5k will buy you a decent project these days. Really clean daily drivers are in the low to high teens. Just goes up there from there...

I run more pressure at my gun. They make what is called an air cap pressure tester. You don't need one but it was very informative to use one. Many P sheets have pressure at the cap not at the gun. I checked my gun one time with air cap tester and I am probably running 30-35 psi at the gun. I had to actually turn it up to get to where they wanted it. Some of the pressure recommendation is environmental to limit the airborne VOC's. The problem with too much pressure is you have more overspray and less paint on the car. Which means you need more paint. Yellow is not a very opaque paint and can be difficult to cover darker primers that is why I decided to run white basecoat under my yellow. If you are running lighter coats you won't get the build the manufacturer is looking for and it can also cause orange peel if you don't have enough material to level out. There is a fine line between too little and too much causing runs and drips. Your fan should probably be broader too like 8" or so. There is a test I use to use where you shoot the gun against a piece of cardboard and test the fan. You were supposed to hold it there for some count which I don't remember. It should paint a nice sort of oval fan and not run. That helps you adjust the material. I just adjust all these things by eye now and my pressure gauge at my gun is illegible. Also I don't keep my fan constant. I narrow it for tight areas and broaden it for bigger areas but you have to adjust the paint volume too when you narrow your fan or you'll have runs HTH

Where in SC?

That's the quite the operation...This is on my wish list...

Namerow I have seen moss boss and had thought about doing that. I also really need to go to a 3 gallon kit instead of 1 1/2 kit. I was really just trying to make a first stab at it and then figure it out. I will try the power supply again but it will probably be Saturday... I understand but I do the hard work everyday... I also don't give up easily, but your experience is invaluable. Especially after seeing all the beautiful plating. Also where are you on your car? Have you set the motor yet?

Thanks Steve

Here is an area calculator from Caswells site http://www.caswellplating.com/surface.html They list the tube and ask whether you are plating the inside or not. I assume if you're not plating the inside that is a line of sight thing? Not actually plugging the ends...

Not really any platers in my area and they don't like to mess with little stuff. Also I have had issues getting everything back from the plater, small parts are easily lots in the larger tanks. Easier to just plate in little batches as I get to it and cheaper for me in the long run because I have other cars to work on, obviously...

Yeah I have a few too many projects lying around but I am working on that. The thunderbirds were gonna be a restoration project and the Lexus and BMW were being parted out when work got really slow. Too many projects, too little time I have a 5" piece of 1/2" copper tube. Caswell recommends this as a test piece. As for calculating area I was unsure whether you calculate just the exterior or the interior of the pipe too. After plating for 40 minutes and still really not being fully plated, I am assuming that you should double the area So: 7.865 Squ In @ .15 = 1.179 amps if it's necessary to double it then 2.358 amps I could only get to about 0.7 so pretty far short of just the straight amperage needed. I am not sure the area of the zinc plays any part in the area and current calculations... Also in this part of the world stills are legal for personal use, but it really feels more like Dr. Frankenstein's home lab kit

Thanks

$30 is home run if they're from a Z...

I did try that, multiple ways. With the voltage all the way up, which should make the current adjustable and constant I could only get 0.7 amps. Motorman7 What power supply are you using?