Patcon

I am planning on using Fusor 411 (?) for skimming the ends of the air dam where I reworked the ends for the bumper slots. The bars I made fit inside the front lip and behind the front crease. So I was planning on using the Fusor to glue the bars to the inside of the air dam. That's the plan, I don't know if it will work or not.

Cody and I are also working on some support for the Xenon air dam I want to avoid this So I am missing the valance support on the front of the car. There were a few parts left, but it was pretty much gone. So we cleaned it back to the radiator support and started templating Cereal boxes make for great pattern material Cody hates body work but he likes to weld, so I got him to help me fab t It needs a little more dolly work and I plan on adding flanges down the lower edges similar to the original. It would have been nice to have made it all out of one piece but I don't have the tools or the skills to do that. I think if I had a shrinker/stretcher setup I might could have done it. A metal brake would have been nice to have too. I am working on another bracket that will be mounted to the back of the air dam that will act as a mate and have through bolts so the air dam can be removed. I have some 1/4" and 3/16's rod that is bent to match the air dam shape that will also be added to give some support and shape

Here is another "massage" technique from last weekend So I am blocking on the windshield cowl, which is sort of like trying to block a beer can. It flexes every time you touch it. But the blocking revealed the edges of the first slots were low. I don't want to fill right up to the first slots, so I needed to straighten them. I got a pick out of the box and hooked it under the edge, just a little light pressure and you can pull it up straight. Two or three tugs in a few different spots and it blocks out level

So here is the oil gutter. Still available new, at least for now. I thought I would post up some dimensions so they could be reproduced if they become NLA That is the part number showing in the first photo. It's pretty light gauge stuff. If I remember I will try to mic it this weekend. I believe the end is left open to aide in installation and evidently the lack of full closure doesn't affect the ability to catch sufficient oil

I am very close to 2 metres tall. A little big for all the older Ferraris. I guess they finally realized they needed pro athletes to be able to fit in their cars.

Pressure is one aspect, but it also needs to pass a certain volume at a certain pressure. Some pumps will pump a volume but not maintain pressure. Some will pump a certain pressure but can't maintain the necessary volume.

Yeah, I suspect she would have leveraged that money alot!!! Could you come mow the grass, rake the leaves, clean the gutters, wax the cars, etc. and that wouldn't have reduced the debt at all... I doubt the car would have survived my showing out in high school as we as all the "altered state" driving we did.

We were pretty careful on Cody's goon and I still had paint failures from rust. So I have gotten a little more paranoid! I hate rust!!

If you don't use an acid prep first , then yes I would do something similar. What does the P sheet for the epoxy want? 80 grit seems pretty course before epoxy. It sticks good, so I wouldn't worry so much about mechanical bond. I wouldn't blow the car down with compressed air unless you have a good drying system. The wax & grease remover dries really fast on it's own. Never mind, I found it. Quoted from the P sheet 1. Wash area thoroughly with soap and water to remove contaminates that solvent based cleaners cannot remove effectively. All substrates must be degreased and sanded. All rust must be removed 2. Clean repair area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover. Clean fibreglass surfaces with 19040 Plastic Parts Cleaner. Wipe dry while the surface is still wet. 3. Sand bare metal area with 80-180 grit abrasive. Sand old finishes with 320-400 grit dry by hand or machine, or 600 grit wet. Re-clean area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover. 4. Prime aluminum substrates within 8 hours. Prime carbon steel immediately after cleaning. I don't know how you can remove all the rust. There seems to always be a spot that is mostly gone but not fully. That is why I phosphoric those areas. Which can muck your epoxy. But how do you wash the car down and not make new flash rust? I think I would go with the 180 grit over the 80 grit. Deeper scratches just make more work for you.

Excellent progress

He illustrated the technique well. Copy what he did. Take you time. Get some dollies and hammers, cheap ones will work. With a good welder you'll be fine. ?

Aaaahhh Christmas! My wax & grease remover is definitely not water based. Solvent based and flashes off as quick as lacquer thinner.

That's funny. My grandmother offered to loan me 10k in high school to buy one I saw. I declined...I didn't think owing my grandmother money was going to be a good thing. I am also too big for it now anyway. I doubt it would have survived my wildness even if I had been able to afford it. They have such beautiful curves though!!!!

Unless I miss something, that's a pretty low number car. The RHD thing would be an issue for me, but it could be a very nice car for the right buyer. Would be interesting to know what it sells for. BaT might be a good option for it.

Add away!

I thought about trying that

That was funny!!! Yeah a little body massage just like that It's surprising how much I have gotten used to just moving panels around with my hands

I had two inductive loop Z tachs. They both measured .04 Amps too! So does that mean that the tach should work or could the circuitry still be bad?

Good to see you too Guy. Cody's is still growing hope he doesn't get much above 6'-7" Getting shorter every day. That's funny. I was trying not to fall down

Someone PM'd me with this: "Hi Charles: A while back you mentioned that you had, on occasion, resorted to twisting a door as part of your panel alignment strategy. I can see an element of usefulness to this, because it seems like it would permit moving the bottom (or top) of the door inboard or outboard at the rear without disturbing the front edge quite as much. On the other hand, using shims at the hinge-to-post mounting point looks like it would move both the front and the rear edge outboard by the same amount, meaning that the door-to-front fender alignment would be affected. Also, shims will only move the door outboard. Can you tell me a little bit about: Why you decided to try twisting the door. How you did it. How you think it worked (i.e Did the door's box structure twist, or did the front wall of the door distort where the hinges mount?) How much movement you accomplished at the bottom (or top) of the rear of the door. Any cautions that need to be observed?" So this was my reply, it occurred to me it might beneficial to others so I copied it over to here: Why I decided? There are actually body tools available to do this. They fasten into the door latch so you can twist a door. I could get three corners of the door right but never the fourth. How you did it? So I set the front two corners of the door properly. If I need to shim the hinges, I do that. Then you have one of the rear two corners that line up. So If depending on which way you have to twist it you brace your leg against the door and pull with your hands. I am sure if you got too rowdy you could crimp the door somewhere. This door is a 280z door, so it is stouter than the 240z door. The drivers door was 3/8" or more proud of the rocker panel when it was flush at the top. After a couple of tries at twisting, it lines up really nice. I haven't seen any unintended consequences of this technique. I suspect you could twist a door 1/2" or more if necessary but that door would be pretty far out. I tape some shims in what ever location is flush so it makes it easy to repeatedly check when the door lines up on all 4 corners. Does that make sense?

Never had a tach I might could did up an early 240z tach and check it. We'll see what I get.

I got like .04 amps when I tried it today. That seems awful low. Does that seem right?

The real issue with using the compressor for an air supply is compressor oil. The air needs to be filtered and run through an oil remover to make it suitable for breathing. The other thing is the compressor intake needs to be pulling air from a safe area. Not near any exhaust ports or pulling fumes into it. It's the filtration on these systems that make them expensive. I have a fresh air mask but usually use the respirator as it's so much easier and I don't have 2 hoses to keep out of the paint. When I do a big spray I use the fresh air mask. It is much nicer because there is no inhaling effort compared to pulling through a cartridge and the air is cool in the hood so it helps reduce sweating in the booth and dripping in your fresh paint The ones that feed the gun and mask off one line are really nice systems although the air will only be as cool as the compressor supplying it.

I don't now. It's a good question. Like lead in paint. The lead made it work better but was hazardous, so no more lead.

Be careful spraying epoxy! Good respirator! You don't want any isocyanate exposure.