Patcon

or fuel sender?

What are your impressions on the exhaust?

Lots of guys who track their cars actually bleed their brakes between sessions. Most brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air) and it does so even better when it is hot. By bleeding the brakes, your get fresh dry fluid and remove a lot of heat with the older hot fluid

I suspect you are boiling your brake fluid or the water in the system. You might want to consider converting to a better high heat fluid if you are going to spend any sort of time on the track

Yeah, I did the same thing. Was really frustrating to have to dig in further for a silly mistake

I wouldn't think the booster would be affected by tracking the car. Maybe one of the track guys will chime in

These cars are quickly becoming valuable enough to justify pretty extreme repair efforts.

The wet number is much better (all with in 10%). That would suggest a ring issue

Excellent! A little surprised it's that high

Possibly, but there is a diminishing returns thing. Where the higher flow above a certain point just adds back pressure, which creates noise. @ 20 MPG @ 60 MPH there is roughly 6 hours of fuel in the tank. So 20 GPH is 6 times over sized for what the car would need at a steady state. Now admittedly getting on it pretty good would burn fuel at a much faster rate but I suspect even getting on it good you never get into the 3 MPG range. There are other issues too. Is the rated flow with 0 head pressure? Because the system will have some head pressure to overcome pumping the fuel from the tank and up to the fuel rail and that will reduced the actual flow numbers. Zed, where is the factory flow test procedure. We could back calculate the designed pump flow rate for SU's as a baseline

However, you will never burn a full tank of fuel in an hour and the car doesn't hold 20 gallons full IIRC

Zed's post on numbers, dry and wet is a good place to start. What was the static compression on the rebuild? Peanut head or open head? Cast pistons? Detonation issues? Premium fuel? I would pull the head and make pictures. Could be a burnt valve, broken rings, holed piston, bent valve. A number of things really...

The rocker metal is fairly thick. So denting it with the cars weight is probably a bad sign

Do you have a part number? We could do some looking for availability

I suspect there are lots of people like me that haven't gotten involved but still have a high opinion of 123 because I know people who have run them and like them. It is unfortunate you have had a problem and others for that matter. The main take away I have so far is their supplied caps are suspect. As for your engine damage, I would want alot more info before I blamed the distributor! Lots of other possibilities there before I would suspect timing. Now on a turbo application timing is more crucial but NA and strret compressions not so much.

Is there difinitive engine damage? I didnt pick that up in the original post. These engines are pretty robust

I would agree, the P to P car is Coffey's legacy

The honey article was fascinating You wonder how many products we consume are contaminated. The country of origin is also hard to really know whether you can trust that too. Sort of like online reviews. Might be true; might not. How many of the health issues in this country are the direct result of all the processed junk we consume and are exposed to?

Yes. The original ones are one use parts. After you do the hubs once, you won't really want to do it again. Besides it's been 45 years on the first ones! The 280zx nut is a self locking nut and could possible be used again. Although a lot of people advise against. So buyer beware!

Too bad you're so far away and I really don't need another "iron in the fire" GLWS

Unless the car is in a relatively dry and not humid shop or garage, the raw metal will need to be protected. Some rattle can primer will help as long as it's not really sitting in the rain getting wet. Rattle can primer won't protect metal from the rain. If it's relatively dry where it's at then a rust treatment/converter will help the metal not flash rust for months.

There are more brackets inside the 280z fender. They hold the extra splash guards IIRC They mount on the car the same way on all S30's

@Captain Obvious

Good for you Cliff 69' was a good year! I'm 3 months ahead of you

What weber carbs? What are their history? You didn't have this issue before the head gasket? How long have you had the car?