Patcon

So I have been working on rebuilding some cv halfshafts that I have with an CLSD differential This is the second one with the bands cut. One of the shafts, the boots were split and I can't imagine the grease was supposed to be tan. Normally that is an indication of water but maybe the factory grease was tan. You need to mark the one end (outer end) that can be disassembled. Supposedly the inner end is not disassemblable. So I made small marks and also marked some blue tape for indexing Then you drive the cap off the end Then remove the snap ring and use the puller There is a clip on the inboard side too I could not find a way to disassemble this end So the inner boots are NLA at Nissan and I could not locate them any where else. Dorman makes a "Uni-boot" that has multiple applications and needs to be trimmed to fit. Also the inner ones are light grey. I just couldn't do that! So I found outer boots on Rockauto that match the factory boots pretty good. For the inner boot, I found that generic boots were available on Ebay if you know how to search for the right size. So I found some boots that looked correct. The right size, the right number of ribs, but surprise! They have three nubs molded on the inside, I was not expecting So I got the die grinder and removed them Here is the first shaft next to the next one

11/23/2019 back from paint jail Left on 3/4/2019 for a 4 week paint job... We have gone around a couple of times to get him moving on it again. He is finally starting to work on a few weeks ago. He has some doors partially assembled and on the car and it's at the trim shop for a headliner currently I told him he needed to get going and finish it or I would pay him for what he's in the car and keep it for myself. Tired of it taking up premium space around the shop! He's really very close and could have the car running in just a few weeks if he got serious about it

@Captain Obvious So I received the new tool. Short story is it won't work! The internal Id they said was much closer than it is. Also the internal shape is all wrong. So back it will go It would have been nice if it had worked because it will accept a degree wheel under the knurled nut So I need a device with an Id like this I believe that 1.373" with a key way that .205" wide As an aside the LD28 crank sitting on another bench has the same snout OD. So this tool should work on pretty much everything L series

Nice kit but they are proud of it!!!

I thought the same thing. I wonder if they are white letter on both sides? If they're not it makes it hard to make all the patterns rotate the same way

If you don't need an excessive amount, you could top it up with distilled water. It won't change the freezing point significantly or compromise the anti corrosion aspects. If you need a quart or more, it's probably easier to just get a jug of prediluted

I used a combination of filler and seam sealer I believe. I don't rely on filler for areas that need to be sealed because plastic filler is not waterproof. It's been a while now and I don't really recall. If you can find some pictures of the slam panel pre-primer you might be able to tell more. Filler is normally robin egg blue. Seam sealer I use it tan

I use lacquer thinner to clean up excess. Sometimes I will mask off the area first so there is less to clean up. Also you can use lacquer thinner on your finger to make it easier to smooth out the seam sealer

2% of the whole but 25% richer... Correct?

We call that "tuition" around here. The cost of learning...

Front cover is off. Actually the guy beat the damper off to sell the front cover. I didn't realize until I got home I didn't get the cover and I learned it's a unique cover! So I contacted him about that. We eventually got around to the truth that he sold it, so the 2 blocks I bought from him were paper weights without the cover. I have since sourced a cover from the Seattle area. So we again have promise

If they're not overly rusted or pitted, they can probably be salvaged if they haven't previously been turned. There might be a restorer that might be looking for all original parts like "hiyabrad" Older rotors have room on them to turn. New rotors seem to be designed to be trash when they get worn. Just not enough metal on them to turn them down

Yes

None of my large sockets have that shoulder on them. That would be really useful sometimes

I do not believe it is a bolt in mod Have you looked on hybrid Z? They are very good at researching mods and all the options

Good Yes, the bleed needs to be at the highest point

Looks like fun! Alas I am without a running Z currently

Pinion gear and rack gear for 69-78 appear to both be NLA for both numbers

I would assume the socket would actually be turned the other way to prevent flaring the bushing?

The parts should have visible wear near center. If the rack or pinion are worn, I would think you're out of luck. Although I have never searched for those part numbers

I dont have pictures but the balancer that was on it was already damaged (the pulleyswere chipped). We welded a 6' pipe to it as a cheater. The hub of the balancer popped open. It actually broke pretty easy. Now it's possible it was already cracked from the PO beating on it but it made a disappointing tool!

I appreciate that Bruce but I may have found a solution Summit racing had one that appears to be within 0.005" I ordered it. Expensive but would be a nice tool to add to the chest. I suspect the other L blocks have the same snout diameter As to the other questions square would work fine because I have a 24" crescent wrench like Guy bought a couple of years ago Should have the tool midweek. I will update then

That was what I was suspecting too. Especially if you're near the coast in San Diego

Has the car been sitting a long time?

I had considered that as a technique I may have to use some form of hammering too. Pistons have been soaking in PB Blaster for a week now