Patcon

Chas, You could try a VPN to spoof the server and slide by their filters

The blow out booster is probably providing more air, so the engine speeds up. I suspect the master had more travel prior to bleeding and it was too much for a marginal booster

Everyone I have has already gone to the plater. I was gonna paint, then install the boots, plates and hinges. Seems a shame to paint nice parts

If I ever get my plating back, I might have a pair

I would use the SU's if the engine isn't too wild. I think it will be hard to get the OER's close enough

I have had it happen but I agree it's probably very rare. I still tend to do it. I use the copper anti seize. Haven't had a spark issue yet. Is an interesting anecdote though.

My first thought was general lee. Dirt road, 3 kids in the car. Jump, coil bind, bad springs....

@zKars Do they have the proper construction?

Very nice!! From green funk to that...

I believe you will have to make a way to seal one or both sides of the booster to hold vacuum...

I agree with Zed You also need to run premium fuel if you are unsure of the compression ratio. Maybe retard the ignition some until you figure out compression ratios

Yes, exactly! 😎

I wonder if there are a number of parts using that number bit vary in construction?

The ones I had, had very large shoulders on the yoke that prevented them from going in easily

As for your adhesive. If you paint is catalyzed lacquer thiiner or adhesive remover should work without paint damage. But test it in a spot that is not visible

I agree with CO Gone in 60 seconds. My youth was very colorful. If I really wanted to protect it, put a tracker in it. It'll tell you if it moves and you can lead the cops right to it. Provided they're still interested in that sort of thing where you live...

I used those myself but found they needed a little clearancing to get into the yoke ends. Did you have any issues?

Post up some rebuild results and tie this off nicely

Super!

300 mm and look how much space to the shock tower...

If I were going to repair this car, I would also replace all of the cowl. Probably all of the inner and outer cowl structure. I suspect the inner is very thin from rust and the outer is basically gone. Is this area an anomaly or is there extensive rust in the rest of the car?

If all 3 on one carb are like that, I would start there. Maybe stuck choke or choke cable binding up

@Mike Could a page be made to house some of these really helpful links? Tire calculators Engine calculators Zcar registries Atlantic z car links Etc

I have always found Dave Patton to be very helpful

What makes you think the Canon is insufficient? I think I would do some volumetric calculations to see what the engine might want based on final displacement. I would also contact whomever is now supporting mikunis II don't remember if Wolf still does it) and somebody for the webers (Redline maybe) and see what their thoughts are on the respective carbs for the proposed engine. The 40s should perform better down low but that's not an absolute