cozye

trace back through with a voltmeter using the FSM wiring schematic (if you don't have this it's available for download). There are two relays, fuel control relay and a fuel pump relay (at least on the 77-78 there are two). The AFM switch mentioned is a an easy test as well. Go back until you hit a 12v signal and you will know where the problem is.

More progress. I'll be mounting new fenders next.

I've got two unused tabco front fender patch panels I'll sell if you are still looking. Brand new.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm leaning towards the Type1 Urethane at the moment. I'm thinking of placing an order next week for a bunch of stuff with MSA and might get the one they have.

In most cases they don't have their brights on. You are just directly where typical suv and truck headlights are aimed. There isn't much you can do about it. It's not the other drivers fault. I've noticed this as well. The worst time is when you are on a dual lane, and they are to your back left.

For my 280z project, I am considering air dam options. Was wondering if anyone had any opinions or experience with the BRE style "spook" vs. the Type1 air dam. Also I've been wondering if I do go with the type 1, should I go with the Uerethane or Fiberglass version ? Originally I did not want to go with an air dam, I am trying to keep the car "period correct" looking, although original is not exactly what I am after. In my eye, some of the air dams give the car a more "modern" look, and thats not what I am after. I figured I would ask for opinions however, since some front valence bodywork is required (mine is a little beat up), going with a type 1 air dam would save me some work. I have converted to the 240z bumpers, so with the exception of the turn signals I believe pics of the 240 will be more accurate for what it will look like. On MSA's page, they have a number of air dams that will work with the 240 bumper, but they only have some crappy pics so its hard for me to decide.. Also I don't know how well they fit and if there are clearance issues with a 280 that's been lowered 1" Also open for a decision is if I do get an air dam, do I paint the same color as the car, or go with a satin black appearance such as Cygnus X1 did with his 280 (which looks really sharp IMO) Here is a pic of my car with a 240 bumper mocked up, although I have a new shiny one now waiting for it in the basement

I can't provide a pic for the 240, but I can tell you that if you are running the 3.0 coil, you don't need the resistor. The kit should have come with a wiring diagram, there are only 3 wires, it should be pretty easy ?

Good news! sounds like you've made some progress. Sorry,, I'm still around. I've just been very, very busy with work and the very few moments I've had here and there I've spent working on my projects. My pc time has been limited to just a minute here and there.

do a search to verify, but there have been a lot of people pleased with the Moog brand replacements. I bought mine from Rock Auto and they fit/worked great.

Since it's a girls car, you may want to consider steering effort. The wider tire you put on there without power steering, you will notice it will be harder to steer. My wife couldn't park our Z with 215 tires on it, now that I put 195/70 back on she has no problem.

They are stainless, and have a lifetime guarantee against corrosion.. http://www.groupharrington.com/en/page/42/about-bumpers.html

The back of them is painted black. They did spot weld the brackets on same as the original. I did a quick test fit with the brackets that I made and they are very close. I would suspect that on a 240 they will fit right on the money. The bumpers I made my brackets off of were bent up a little so I anticipated some minor adjustments. Close enough for me that washer or two will space it out perfectly. The also came with the bolts for the rear sides to go through the quarter panel, and nuts for all the brackets too. I'll definitely take pics once they are mounted, but it will be 2 or 3 months I would guess, as I'm not mounting them again until paint is completed. They are very shiny, just like chrome. I held up the chrome bar off my 240 bumper up to it and it looked the same. If it hadn't been night time I would have taken a pic of them outside. Maybe I'll carry one up to the garage under the lights and take another pic soon.

Thanks. I've definitely improved my welding skills and have a lot more confidence working with the thin metal. I'm on the downhill with the body repair, so I'm starting to look forward to getting her shiny

Yeah, they are very nice. It's a bit more than I wanted to invest in bumpers, but rechroming the ones I had was going to cost just as much and in the grand scheme of things it won't be that much money once the project is completed and they are looking great on the car.

Whats up Gold man ? I was wondering when you would show up

good to see you comrade

I just ordered these bumpers from the Harrington Group http://www.groupharrington.com/en and they arrived Friday. Total time from order to arrival was 7 days. The communication from the sales guy (Thy) was super. There is a time difference as they are based in the UK and manufacture out of Thailand, however when I sent an email I had a reply the very next morning. The bumpers normally come like stock 240 bumpers with the rubbers installed and with the front license plate bracket, however I requested no rubbers, no holes, and no brackets. This was no problem and they indicated that they do custom request all the time. Anyway, I was very pleased with the bumpers. I've tested fitted them quickly and they will work perfectly. They are down in the basement now awaiting the completion of my bodywork, so I figured I would post up my review and pics of the bumpers. The light down there is pretty low so the pics arent the greatest, but they turned out great and the quality is good. They are very straight, no waves, and polished to a mirror finish.

more pics of passenger side currently in progress

Been a while since I've updated the thread. I've patched the drivers side dog leg, cut out and welded in new metal. Smoothed out drivers rear quarter, just had some surface rust on the bottom that I was able to clean up with the grinder. Started on the passenger side rear quarter, I had to cut some metal out and welded in some new metal. On that side both the outer skin and inner skin was rusted through. I cut out a larger section on the outside so I could cut out a smaller section on the inside and patch first. Once that metal was welded in I coated the inside with some encaspulator and patched the outside. I'll put a little plastic on it shortly. I'm going to weld in a new section on the passenger side dogleg before I mix up some plastic filler. For anyone wondering about fender availability, they are still available. After doing some looking and giving it some thought, I opted for two new front fenders instead of patching my existing ones. I could patch them, but since there is a nice metal support that braces the back side of the fender that is rusted out on mine I just prefer getting some new ones. Saves me a little time and effort, plus the rear support section would still be a pita to deal with, along with the rear bolt hole using patches. Here are some current pics. I hope to have all the bodywork completed in the next 3 or 4 weeks and will try and hook up with a painter. I'd spray it myself if I had access to a paint booth, but I don't.

FWIW The harbour freight leak down tester is fine if you replace the 2nd gauge with a 100psi gauge.

You should be able to get most of that with a wire wheel on the end of a drill. They make a few different sizes to get into various spots.

They cut it out, weld in new, and grind it smooth again. Their website has a pretty good detail about how they restore bumpers. FWIW, the rust is there from the rubbers being glued on, the moisture got between the rubber and chrome right where the over rider was rubbing on the edge.

No problem. for what it's worth, the nu-chrome guys I think would handle restoring bumpers very well. When I talked to Denver bumper, they indicated by phone that if there was any rust through, they wouldn't fix it. Once you factored in shipping etc.. I think they are both very close in price. The original price from nu-chrome to just restore my bumpers as they are was $850, however it went up once he found out I wanted all the holes filled. He did not want to come down on price much and indicated that he had to have that amount in order to do a quality job. They do have a lot of years experience specifically with restoration etc.. I know a lot of guys really like the Denver bumper shop, and they seem to have a great reputation. I do think the Nu-chrome place will be a viable alternative though and worth giving a shot. Nu-chrome will send fedex to pick up your bumpers for free for evaluation and quote. It is going to cost me $35 to get them back since I opted out of the job. I was just at the point where new stainless started to make more sense for me. Not to mention I will be getting the new bumpers in half the time. The rechrome is 8-12 weeks.

just for reference, here are the pics of my original 240 bumpers so that everyone has a reference of my starting point. This is the rear, although I do have the optional top bar that goes with it as well but no pic. The top bar is in very good shape. here are a couple pics of the front bumper. when I originally purchased it, the rubbers hid the rust so I thought they were in better shape. Interestingly enough, to patch each rust spot was only adding $40 to the price. (20 per spot)

I'm not sure what I can get out of them. I've got $300 in them. I'm sure I can get something out of them, they are salvageable. From my discussions with two different chrome shops, the $500 price for chroming bumpers is a starting point, for a perfect set of bumpers. after shipping, materials fees, and any clean up work it will cost more. And as far as my classic, it's a 280, so putting 240 bumpers on is already a modification. If I was doing a 240 resto, I would stick with the originals for sure. It won't be a daily driver, but it will be a driver. Honestly, I was trying to do the whole thing for about $700-800 including chroming. That just isn't going to happen though. If I could find a perfect set of 240 bumpers with no holes for $700-800, I'd buy them. I don't think they are out there though. Been watching for 6 months.