Shade133

in california when i worked at the dealership. the receptionist got paid 9-10 an hour depending on experience. i worked at a porter first (sweeping lot doing grunt work and pulling up cars) then moved up to a driver for customers.. porter made 8 an hour (minimum wage) and so did the driver but nicer job and more hours. and this is very smart thinking. in your position id still get in good with the higher up people at the dealership. make yourself known and let them know you want a job, stop by on your free time every once in a while and also let them know you'd like a spring-summer job when your get your permit but you need to focus on school right now. that will show them your responsible and reliable. they want someone that is smart and has goals and works hard. you work hard in school they will think you'll work hard at your job to.

installed them tuned? ya they magically come tuned in the box you didnt know that!? i ment to say install them, and tune. not install them already tuned. would be nice though

hey old or not his info is pretty interesting and true! in my opinion it all depends on the person. me personally if i had the money to buy brand new custom sets and install them and tune i would do that instead of rebuilding them myself. EDIT: also id pay to have them rebuilt if that would be chaper then new

ya the fuel filter is no biggy i just never replaced it due to it looking new and the guy told me it was new. ill check the fuel pressure and clean the afm and get back to you!

wow i was thinking of something WAY different then this when you asked me about it in my thread . im sorry.

Ya plus the injectors are new . as for fuel filter. it looks new and the guy said he replaced it right before he sold it to me, ill replace it again just for kicks and giggles. as the pump. you got a very good point here and i want to check the fuel rail pressure now! would i want to check the pressure with the engine off and the key on after the pump primes? or should i do it while idling or under a load?

ive read about your check valve and i honestly dont think they pose a performance issue when bad. emissions, maybe but performance i dont think so. If im thinking about the right thing. the little round thing that is on some of the vacume lines that should allow vacume one way but not the other or something like that? also i might be totally confused on what your talking about hense my charcol canester is by my fuel filter, but you said something about it being by your fuel pump when my fuel pump is by my gas tank. so i might just be confused on that subject. and i think your right about the timing. mine always runs better advanced so i might just try advancing it and see what happens. as for it being fuel starved i wasnt able to check my fuel pressure that night but was one of the things i wanted to do. as for the afm, i wouldnt be suprised if that was the issue. the door on it moves freely but the contacts inside might be nasty. its never been opened so who knows. i got some carb cleaner and wd-40 wich would clean better?

ya screw applying online. ive sent in resumes online (luckily i got an interview where im at now because i sent in my resume via email) but im sure the reason i got the job was because impression in person. if they want you to do an online app. go in person meet the hiring manager or whoever will do the hiring. talk with him/her go home fill out an ap and put in resume if needed and call back a few days later. tell them you submitted an app. then if you still hear nothing. do another walk in and talk to the same person. let them know how much you want the job and be presentable. youll be fine.

dont get a town car, get a beater lifted 4x4. if your going to buy a v8 gas gussler then get a lifted 4x4. should be able to get a beater bronco or blazer or some truck for 1000 or so.

yesterday i worked on it all day. before today it would miss, spit and sputter and have 0 power while under a load. this is what i did and the outcome pulled oil pump and put to TDC and timing was set right. Found out spark plugs were in the wrong order was set to go 153624 going clockwise not counter clockwise, so i fixed that. pulled all injectors and replaced with new ones. pulled all spark plugs (sorta new) and cleaned and re gapped adjusted TPS sensor, fixed intake leak between AFM and intake. set timing with timing light to 10 degrees BTDC started her up and she idled perfect. my question now is it has a sputter at partial throttle and no power under a load. it has somewhat power at half to full throttle but the RPM's hit a wall at 4.5k RPM's what could cause this and what should i do next? good fuel, good spar, timing right, good air. whats next? the one thing im worried about is the position of the butterfly, vs the idle screw. would this effect anything other then idle? because its been messed with quite a bit. please let me know what i could do so i can get this thing on the road ASAP! EDIT: made a typo on my subject line. it was supposed to say "advice"

ITB's (individual throttle body injection) they run around 2k-3k a kit. intake, injectors, and throttle body's and so on. dont know if they come with a computer to controll it all but im sure there are pleanty out there. will wake up your Z and make it a beast.

aside from a parts store or dealership wich are awesome places for starting jobs. ( i worked at napa in their distribution center, made 11.23 an hour full time hard hard labor in the packing line ) you can also do contruction to make good quick money. usually general laborers start at 10 an hour but might be hard to find a contruction job right now. dont settle for a fast food joint. only food place i worked at was a pizza joint. made 20 bucks a night in tips minimum. i lived off that money and spent my paychecks on whatever i wanted. something you might think about when you get your license. and to make that much over summer, you'll need a great paying job long hours and save every penny of it.

their also a little more comfy inside the car then the earlier years i personally dont like the look of them but everyone is different.

no need to post multipul posts around.. one post should do fine.

there's a classified section. and do some seaching you might find posts explaining how much something like that is worth. a perfect condition one could be around 10 grand or more, a bad condition could be around a few hundred dollars.

junk yard

if your looking for a cheap one. look for one that doesnt have bad rust in the normal areas like battery tray, floor boards, under the car anywhere, wheel wells, stuff like that. you can get one in good shape with a bad engine for real cheap. but you did say you wanted to drive it while searching for parts, but still you should be able to get a really decent one for 4k or even 3k if you dont want to do a ton of cosmetic work. i bought mine for 900, all suspension bushings shot or gone, suspension shot, engine had minimal issues but it drives and runs. it also has cosmetic issues. not a lot of rust (most surface rust) but the paint is horrible.

Best of wishes with it though! i want to see what the out come is if you decide to buy a z and go with it!

little things like Arne stated were improved in the later 280'z vs the 240's.. and yes the shell changed a bit. the strut towers are one that i noticed. hence the 280'z have the longer insulator, the tower is taller then a 240 i believe. and the 280'z were heavier so the uni-body was probably stronger, regardless you'll have to do some beefing up. and ive lived in cali, and now in phoenix, and taken bumpers off of both without issues. but then again i never had to go through a safety inspection of any kind.. thats something you'll have to find out for your city/state before considering taking them off, BUT you can always take them off and replace them with nice sleek after market ones like the one in the picture

ya you throw a carb one in there the high psi will eat it up. happened to be one my first Z. lesson learned.

240z up to 75 280 no hood vents, interior is different like amp guage instead of volt, set up for choke cable if carbed in center console. rear luggage straps are different.. 240z strut mount insulators are 1 inch or so shorter then the 280's in the rear.. the 280 bumpers are huge and stick out vs the small 240 and 260 ones. just a few stuff off the top of my head not counting engine and tranny stuff. i personally think a 78 280 (last year of 280z before they went to the 280ZX) would be best for v8 swap.

ah i see. no i agree with you, id rather have r12 in it then 134a. i had a bmw with r12 and that thing was a ice box. ive been in brand new cars in 110 degree weather and it was never as cold. in that case i hope mine isnt r134a.. and since you said there would be a stamp i assume it wasnt, or the dude vacuumed it out and didnt put r12 back in. if that is the case could there be any damage to the system if not converted properly? or can i just flush it out and put r12 in it?

thats what i thought. i thought they didnt put those screens in the tanks until the later years where the pump was actually in the tank?

ive never heard of a screen in the sump. that seems to be bad engineering.. once its clogged, what you got to buy a new tank? or is there an actual way to take it out? if so, take it out and put an external one. Nick

ah i see. i havent seen a tag anywhere so i assume it wasnt. and i assume there was some r134a because thats what the guy said was in it when i bought it.. right now the whole system doesnt even kick on. no fans no nothing so i got to fix that first. would you know how much it would cost to replace some of the parts like the expansion valve to newer 134a parts and do the conversion?