olzed

The butterflies in the carbs are probably stuck open. Has the return spring fallen off the linkage?

A spring is a spring. A bit of wound tempered spring steel rod. If it fits and does the job for you,then it is the right one.

Thanks for sharing this.

Negative.

Priceless.:classic:

Around 28C today, and 95% humidity in Auckland. I suppose clammy is the word. 40 degrees in Perth holy crap Chris. I'll stay in NZ.

Happy Christmas to all. Christmas morning down here in NZ with slight drizzle and very humid, which is the tale end of a tropical cyclone that devasted Samoa and Fiji a few days ago. Wife and I are just heading off to our daughters to have Xmas lunch with our kids and grandchildren.

Good luck with that job Sarah. A helper is always good. One of my pet hates is sliding under the car with a handful of tools, and the one you need is back in the box.

Yes to the high detergent oil and frequent changes. I used to use diesel engine oil in an old Toyota Corolla, and the internals were spotless. It had done over 250,000 ks. when it finally rusted away and I drove it to Pick a Part. When i first bought it with 50,000 ks. the timing chain rattled, which ceased after a few months of high detergent diesel engine oil. I figure the detergent oil cleaned out the oil galleries, allowing the chain tensioner to function properly.

The ratchet adjuster should not turn enough to overtighten the drum when the drum is installed. It might not be the emergency brake at all, but a faulty master cylinder. I had this on mine where the front brakes were pumping up and not releasing. I replaced the master cylinder. You could check for this by loosening one of the rear wheel cylinder bleeds nipples. If the wheels then turn easy it would be a faulty master cylinder. I could be way off the mark here, but it's worth a try. Brian.

I like the front half, but to me they have too much sheet metal above the rear wheel arch, giving an unbalanced appearance. The rear half i'm not a fan of.

DJ. The resister was still in the circuit. I cleaned and adjusted the points a few days ago, but will have another look if need be. I think I might have found the problem. The spade connector on the wire that goes to the resister was quite loose, so i remedied that. Similar problem to yours Andy. I just took her for a 10 minute spin and so far all is good. More gas tomorrow and more driving. Fingures crossed. Thanks guys. Brian.

New battery a month ago. All the connections are tight and clean. I'll check the distributor cap and points again, although I did give the cap a wipe out, a couple of days ago. I just now bypassed the ignition with a hot wire from the battery, took it for a mile drive, and she ran as smooth as silk. I'll give it a rest and try that again. Could this be trouble in the ignition switch? Brian.

Hey guys. 72 240 stock points ignition, stock SUs. Usually pulls hard. She just started an annoying and sudden miss which occurs mainly under light acceleration. Almost as though someone is turning the key on and off. The tach. flutters at the same time, and sometimes the car will stall completely. Then sometimes it starts straight up, then another time it would not start till a few hours later. My assistant was cranking it over, then as soon as I shorted out a plug wire , and it started. The spark at the plugs is weak and yellow. Plugs are clean. I changed the coil, but no difference. Whats next? Condenser? I am leaning towards ignition, because of the fluttering tach. Any ideas? There is heaps of fuel at the carbs, but I have not inspected the carbs themselves. As yet. Brian.

Hey there Mike. ---I was wondering if Rick was OK as he had been quiet on the forum for a long time, and I miss his wonderful Aussie humour. Does he still have the Zed.? Yes, could you email me his email address thanks Mike. I just came in from giving the old girl (the Zed) a lick over with your good polish. Cheers, Brian.

1 Bravo 6 , Is he still around?

Could it have been something to do with a tow bar.

All I see on HybridZ is guys offering help. Are you sure you are not seeing a problem where there is none? With an engine running, there is so much oil at the towers, it is doubtful a sieze could occur.

I second Zeds remarks on punctuation. This is very important, as it means your post only needs to be read once and understood.

About the little plastic things in the switch. From memory these are the little plunger detent things that go on the end of small springs.There should be a light smear of lubricant where they slide or they will wear out. I made one up using a piece from a plastic knitting needle. A bit fiddly, but it can be done and is still working after 8 years.

Time to replace the exhaust system. A 34 year old muffler deserves to put out to pasture. It has served you very well.

Not Zed related, but just a bit of a laugh.

I didn't like the smell of cooking pads when thrashing the backroads, so I fitted vented discs and Toyota 4 pots. No more smoking brakes, so I guess it's an upgrade.

I had similar on my 72. It was a wire at the switch that had come unstuck. A cold solder joint, which was not easily spotted.

Thats a mighty fine effort Captain. It motivates me to fire up the old brain cells again, and clean the crap off my lathe. How far does the threaded section enter into the base of the wood?