olzed

I like an occasional thrash along a country road, when alone, but when we travel in a group on club outings, we always remind each other of our strict speed limits, and the safety of other road users. My wife always reminds me as well.:stupid:

Nice. If I could find a shift map I would make a new knob. I made mine 12 years ago, and it has a blank steel cap, which looks OK but not really OK.

Horrific scene to witness.

It would have been around four years from when the walnut blew over, and it was cut into three or four inch thick slabs, until it was made into furniture, and I was making gun stocks from it. I suppose you could cut your maple up into smallish pieces, and leave it in the hot sun for a few weeks to dry.You will get some splitting, but should end up with some you can use. I couldn't guess how long that might take. It would not be too successful spinning a knob from green wood, as it would most likely split as it dried out. I once made a gunstock using semi dry walnut from a different tree, and it took on quite a kink and shrunk as it dried. Weeks of work down the drain. Lesson learned.

Down here we had a bad hurricane back around 1986. Blew over a 150 year old English walnut. I was lucky enough to buy a lovely dining table from it around four inches thick, and another slab that I made into gun stocks. Still have some I think. I might spin up a knob.

Hi from down under Dave. Yes pictures are good .Is the 260 a 2 seater or 2+2

No sorry, paintball guns don't. I have worked some, with walnut over the years, and IMHO the first knob could well be sap walnut. I have never seen sap or heart walnut with grain like the second knob. It looks too regular and is very boring looking. But then it could also depend where that tree was grown and what variety of walnut I guess.

Captain Obvious. Coming from your area and with your skills, 200 years ago you would have been the village gunsmith. My choice of wood for shift knobs would be heart walnut or maple. Both traditional Kentucky/Pensylvania muzzle loading rifle stock wood with tight grain and good figure.

Hi from NZ. I have a 72 as well. You have a big job there, but the end result will be worth the effort i'm sure. Your dash looks to have no cracks, which is a huge bonus.

Well there ya go . Maybe they made special manual mounts for NZ. rough roads. or JDM vehicles. Mine is a 72 auto/manual conversion as well, and came with the same type ie the shiny black one. The other type of mount I fitted later came off a 72 manual I was told. Is there some crossover of mounts.? http://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&ved=0CEgQrAIoATAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.classiczcars.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D44853&ei=4uSSUO6tDvCWiQfw4ICQCA&usg=AFQjCNE1NwBSrkDDtFOHmOn1amnb94PzQw&cad=rja

The shiny black one is from an Auto Z. I had one on my 240 with a five speed for a while, and then fitted a manual mount, similar to your old looking one. I could tell no difference in the way it functioned. The older one is from the manual trans. Either will work.

I would leave the car in rain rather than cover it. Depends if it leaks I suppose, but condensation of a covered car is a killer. Better to let it breath. The only time I would use a cover is for the sun. FWIW

It's amazing how many think the original wheels were mags. Just goes to show how the five slot mags looked so 'correct' for our cars, even today.

Myth.?

Some serious work in wrapping a Z dash, in either vinyl or leather, but done right it can be very cool. Nice pictures Blue.

I have a persistant clonk, so I'll be checking on my diff nuts. Any idea what the torque on these nuts should be?

You have a good lady there. And a good result with your car.

Leather would be difficult. I doubt that it could be stretched enough withought some stitching. Stitched leather would look very classy, though not so original looking.

Well that was a simple fix.

Which would suggest there is a problem with those two cylinders not working as they should. Do you notice the engine running roughly before this? This could be caused by a number of things. Lack of spark at those two. Badly fouled plugs. Poor compression caused by burnt valves, or overtight rocker adjustment. First-- Remove the plug wires one at a time, and with the engine running, hold the end against a metal part of the engine. A spark should jump. Use insulated pliers to hold the wire. Next. Remove the plugs one at a time, and place or hold, with some insulated pliers, with it's wire attached against a metal surface on the running engine. There should be spark across the gap. If you have spark, then the problem is low, or no compression. Next. Remove the rocker cover and check rocker adjustment. And now would be a good time to do a compression test. Could be burnt valves. Could be pistons burnt, though not likely. Could be broken rings, though not likely. Anyone else?

Yes the pump will fit if you have an electric fuel pump.-- I went for a smaller pump with a remote resovoir, mounted under the inspection lid on the right side, used the main belt to drive the pump. What rack are you thinking of?. I used a Subaru rack on my 72 and it works well. Not a straight swap though. My pump is from a Hyundai Lantra from Pick a Part. Has the correct pulley, and I bolted it on using an alloy adaptor plate where the fuel pump usually bolts.

Surely someone is having a joke.

Yep, I second the roll upwards technique, using fingures. Worked for me,

A good quality heart walnut is just the ticket for the knob.A very dense close grain wood with nice figure. Turns well. I made one for my 240, but unfortunately without the shift pattern.

Nice find. We would love to see some pictures.