steve91tt

I'm in for a meet up. My car is in the paint shop right now but I am looking forward to seeing the other rides in the area and meeting you guys.

Got my bumpers back from Denver Bumper Works today and all I can say is WOW! I knew these guys were good but they exceeded my expectations significantly. The bumpers I sent them were bent up, scratched and rusting from the back. They cleaned and re-chromed them to a mirror finish. No evidence at all of the dents or rust. I can hardly believe that they are my bumpers. Here are a couple of photos. I highly recommend these guys.

I did not have this issue when I did mine. The screws came out with little effort. I guess, as always, your milage may vary.

Glad to help. Post some photos when you get them done.

It's a fairly easy and gratifying process. 1. Remove the seats from the car by removing the 4 bolts holding them to the floor. 2. Separate the backs from the bottoms by removing the screws and bolts. I think there are 4 per side of each seat. The seats are spring loaded so lean the seat back forward before you start undoing the screws so that the spring does not cause the seat back to snap forward as you undo the screws. 3. On the seat back bend the little metal tabs up that poke through the old vinyl and hold it in place. This will allow you to lift the vinyl off of the tabs and start to peal it from the frame. 4. The front of the seat back vinyl is held to the frame with a listing wire and hog rings about 3/4's of the way to the top of the seat. When you peal the vinyl back far enough to expose the wire simply cut the hog rings and remove the wire from its fabric sleeve. You will most likely have to put the wire in the fabric sleeve on the new covers unless they come with wire already installed. 5. The seat back vinyl and foam should now easily come off of the frame. 6. The seat bottoms are similar to the back. Simply bend up the tabs on the bottom near the track and remove the vinyl. There is a listing wire in the seat bottom as well. Remove it the same as you did for the seat backs and place it in the new cover. 7. To reinstall the seat covers simply reverse the procedure. Hog ring pliers are nice for installing the new listing wire but not necessary. I generally use tie wraps to pull the listing wires near enough to the frame to get the hog rings attached. This part of the job is a little fiddly but not that bad if you take your time. 8. Pull and stretch the vinyl until it fits nice and snug like a new seat. Sometimes it helps to get the vinyl hot to help it stretch a little. A hair dryer can help here or simply put the covers in the hot sun for a few minutes. 9. Depending on your covers you will likely have to cut holes in the vinyl for the screws that hold the seats together. This can be a little nerve racking but take your time and use a sharp blade and all should go well. 10. You can now put the back and bottom together and install in the car. All in all not such a bad job. If you have any questions let me know.

Great tip. I did not know that Les had the "stock" replacement in fiberglass. I called him, he had one in stock and it's on the way to me. I'll take some photos when it gets here.

That's great news! The guy from the body shop warned me that poor quality fiberglass parts can be very costly to prep. Do you have any lip photos?

My air dam is pretty banged up so I need to make a decision on which style to go with for a new one. I am not a fan of large front air dams. From what I can find by searching around the forums this leaves me with very few choices. I can go back with a stock replacement (expensive!) or I can go with an Aero Lip from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1420 I've been reading old posts and haven't found much information on this style air dam. It doesn't seem to be all that popular. Can anyone comment on the quality of the fiberglass in this part? I don't want to pay a bunch of cash to have a body shop rework a poor quality part.

I dropped by the paint shop tonight after work to see how things are coming on my car. He has the car mostly torn apart and the good news...Zero Rust!:classic: The bad news... My front air dam is full of dents and old bondo.:disappoin. The body guy figures that it will take 10 hours of shop time to get it looking tip top so I guess it's time to start looking at replacement parts. The guy with the 308 in the shop with me wasn't so lucky. Rust holes lurking under his paint all the way around the car. Sad to see such a beautiful car in such bad shape.

Welcome and congrats on the car! POR15 makes a great kit for cleaning and coating gas tanks. Lots of good success reported on this forum over the years. Lots of places sell it on the net. I got mine through Amazon.com. What part of the ignition are you looking for?

I've had a MityVac for years. I guess I wasn't using it correctly. Thanks for the tips!

If my car turns out half as nice as yours I'll be ecstatic!

I finally got the car stripped to where my painter wanted it. Unfortunately the paint shop is a little behind so he does not want my car until Thursday. I guess I can wait a little longer.:disappoin In the mean time I packed up the bumpers and sent them off to Denver Bumper Works to get the dents pounded out and the chrome refreshed. I couldn't bring myself to put beat up old bumpers on a fresh paint job.

Marriage is fine and her choice. She can drive the Z when she is a little older but not when she first turns 16. I was 16 once. I wrecked a car. My friends all wrecked cars. It was the thing to do.

Great feedback. Thanks

I've used a vacuum bleeder but not been happy with the results. I found it hard to avoid sucking in air from around the bleed fitting. The Power Bleeder is better because it uses positive pressure from the MC end thus forcing new fluid through the system...or that's the theory anyway.

She thinks she will be driving it. I'm thinking...no.

Those are speed bleeders. I was looking at the Power Bleeder as an option.

I am looking for a way to bleed my brakes without resorting to the old 2 person pump and wrench technique. From what I have read on this forum the Potive Products Power Bleeder looks like a good way to go. Does anyone know if the Power Bleeder "Round Universal Bleeder 0101" will fit a 240Z? The application chart says that it should fit but I wanted to hear from someone who can attest to how "universal" this unit really is.

My car goes in for paint next week. I'm going with a color change to 901 silver so lots of stuff to take apart. I put my 10 year old daughter to work drilling out the rivets holding on the side trim. The painter I am using has done some amazing cars in the past so I know he's got the skills to do a great job. There is a Ferrari 308 in the shop in front of me but as soon as the Ferrari is done the 240Z goes in. I can't wait! He thinks it will take about 3 weeks to finish the job. I'll post some photos along the way.

I did not know the stock mustache bar bushings were still available. Did you get these from Nissan?

They might have chosen the z because of all the bad press around old consumption issues with the later model z's. Owners tend to look to use the best oil they can to avoid the problem.

I hate to get all sciencey but I doubt that the heat capacity of PVC or any other organic polymer is significantly different than leather. I suspect the difference is in how it transfers the energy back to your butt. Vinyl seems to be quite good at butt heat transfer.

How much butt hight did you loose with time (the seats not you)? The seats are very comfortable but about three inches taller than my old saggy ones. I keep hitting my head on the roof!

It depends how long you intend to keep the car but my vote is to replace the parts of the system made of rubber. I'm thinking that 39 year old rubber in a hydraulic system is decently probable future point of failure. Can you get a rebuild kit for the master or slave?