Zed Head

I have to tilt my lawnmower after filling up to the top of the neck to let the air bubble on the other side out.

Forgot to say - welcome to the forum. The four barrel conversions seem popular over there. How long have you had the car? You didn't give any details either, not even year!

Since you're seeing 14 volts at the battery, you must be measuring while the engine is running. The ballast resistor is designed to drop voltage. I think that six volts is about right for the early points type 240Z's. What you see with the engine running is a composite of the off voltage and on voltage. Basically you're measuring DC voltage on a pseudo AC circuit (Steve and CO feel free to jump in). Here's a link to the basic test procedure for all of the Unilite modules (they're all basically the same). You'll measure voltage with the coil circuit open and closed, separately. It will probably be fine. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/MAA-unilitedistributorwiringdiagramtestproced.pdf http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4763901/overview/year/1972/make/nissan/model/240z If you've been running rich for 1000 miles your plugs are probably fouled badly and you really just need a tuneup, or at least the plugs need a good cleaning.

The black numbers are ordered in the correct direction. Imagine that you had the 280Z tab on the engine and were watching the "0" move with more advance. It would move to the left, higher numbers on the 280Z scale. Which would move the numbers to the right on the damper over on the pointer. So, it sounds like what you're basically seeing is that the engine runs best at only 10 degrees total centrifugal advance. Assuming that the scaling is correct (only you know what you saw with the 280Z tab as a ruler), the real problem is that the engine runs funny. Maybe the CR is too high, or cam timing is off. Maybe it just won't run well at high advance. If you wanted to double check your marks, you could attach the 280Z tab close to the damper pulley somehow. Whatever mark is across from the tab's zero mark is now the damper reference mark, and it should move appropriately across the 280Z tab as timing advances. Or attach the tab anywhere, set TDC, and make a new mark on the damper pulley. You could also borrow or buy a "dial-back" light and use that to check the marks. With those you adjust a dial on the timing light to read timing and use only two marks, one on the damper and one on the pointer/tab.

Here's a video from a guy that sounds States-side, clearly showing a notch in the #6 cylinder, exhaust side. 0:17 in. I've been reading about notches for years but it seems like there was always a question about where they came from, and no pictures. Still wonder what the reason is for them. Maybe just insurance during assembly, or maybe they do touch if you get a bad mix of tolerances. Edit - actually I think that olderthanme may be a member here. I know that he's on Hybridz, or was. Edit 2 - he is but last posted in 2008 - http://www.classiczcars.com/user/10107-olderthanme/

I only started this for Tomohawk's question about a direct module swap. It's interesting though how fast the technology changed. From 74, with the big box under the dash, to 79 with the matchbox on the distributor, then to ECU timing and dwell control in 81 with the turbo engines. I've always wondered about the timing curves for ECU control. Not so easy to figure out what the ECU is doing, and no specs. published like with the distributor control. Nissan doesn't even try to explain it, they just leave it unknown.

So I posted a question on a Maxima site and a guy replied that yes, his block is notched, but on the exhaust side only. Didn't know that. Which is even odder since that's the small valve, even though it is bigger than the 204Z L24 valve. Makes me wonder if Nissan didn't do it to solve a shrouding problem. The exhaust valve is the hot valve and would be sensitive to uneven cooling. The side of the valve head closest to the cylinder wall would be cooler due to low exhaust gas flow by it, and radiative cooling. Emissions engines (1980's and on) tend to run hotter. Maybe Nissan had a valve warping problem. Just a guess. I can't really figure out what the notch is for. So it may be that the MN47 will drop right on to an L24 or L26 with no notching, but there are durability reasons to notch. Avoiding warped valves maybe.

Here's the control module info broken out. Notice that four and six cylinder are the same. So there's a list of old hard-to-find cars to look for in the wrecking yards. Control Module UNIT-TRANSISTOR IGNITION 22020-H7281 CAL+FED.0877- FED(GFU).1276- 22020-F1703 CAL 0775-0777 <> 22020-U6800 22020-U6800 CAL -0675 Ignition control module (ICM) Nissan 22020-H7281 UNIT-TRANSISTOR IGNITION (HITACHI E12marked 'Hitachi E12-27 12V 7298'1978 B210620 0877-0678Airtex/Wells 6H120222020-H7281, 88921666, JA114Standard Motor Products/Intermotor/Ultrapower: LX-51312334610, 22020-H7281, D302, E1909Make --- Model Year NISSAN --- 200 SERIES 78 280 SERIES 78 510 80,78 810 78 B210 78-77 F10 78 PICKUP 78

Tomohawk asked in another thread about modules that might swap in to the 1978 280Z, from other models or brands of car. Here's one possibility - http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=B-210_Electronic_Distributor_Swap I haven't figured out if the modules are the same in the cars listed or just other parts, but it's a start. Of course, most of these cars are just as hard to find in a junk yard as the 1978 280Z. That's the main problem, everybody only used the big box for a few years before everything got small. I used a 78 module in my 76 car for quite a while, by building a simple terminal panel to allow the wire ends of the 76 to be input to the plug of the 78.

I guess my point was actually a question - why do you need to remove the shaft, or quill? Just leave it and let it spin. It won't go anywhere.

Hey! Isn't the condenser you're talking about, that stops arcing, usually mounted on the side of the distributor? Could still be bad and a new one probably won't hurt. I remember from Chevy world that the condenser was actually mounted on the points assembly. The distributors were bigger I think and it all fit under the cap.

Probably more fun to design and make your own but here's a ready-made setup from a guy who seems to know what he's doing. He's a Hybridz member and makes transmission adapters and other complicated things. 240hoke on Hybridz. http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit Edit - forgot to say: I don't think that you need to cut your distributor shaft. You can just remove it, the oil pump shaft has its own retention mechanism. Or you could make a clear cover and fabricate a cool spinny LED thing. That would be something.

That would be pointless. You already have one. On spark - you'll only get power to the spark plugs when the engine is turning over. "Now the thing is I discovered there is no current being delivered to the spark plugs...there's no current being released from the new ignition coil to the distributor...so that is what I am trying to resolve, what could be causing there to be no current leaving theignition coil?" Do what people are suggesting to do when they say "test for spark". You can't measure it. you can only see it happen.

Considering the problems people have breaking in new cams, I wonder if the engine survived. They spent a lot of time talking about triple carbs but never even show it running. Diseazd said his friend bought the car. I wonder what's happening with it.

If you measure before you drive it, everything should be at room temperature. Often it's not the sensor but the 6 connections between it and the ECU circuitry. Each one can add a little resistance, showing a cold engine to the ECU and causing added fuel. Clean all of those connections. The temp. gauge doesn't use the coolant sensor. It's separate. There's a sensor and a sender. But a cold engine will be a big problem. Often people have overheating problems and remove their thermostats. A new Nissan thermostat would definitely be worthwhile. Your local dealer might have one, or Courtesy Nissan. Nissan quality is worth buying for that part. Are there numbers on the AFM, either the cover or body? A11-xxx-xxx. That will tell you something. Idle circuit is separate from running circuit, there's a switch on the throttle body. So fingering the vane will only show gross problems. I'd focus on getting the engine hot first. You can't pass if your ECU is adding fuel for a cold engine. I think that 78 is A31-604-000 for the AFM. And you're right, that AFM does not look like my old 1978 AFM.

This here is your main hurdle. You have to measure and get real numbers at the ECU connector. And there is almost never a quick-easy fix. Just a collection of small fixes that add up. Those numbers aren't that bad. Mine were similar, but they only check idle up here. I lowered my fuel pressure and made some other adjustments. But I have a modified system that allows that. The first three things that I would do are: measure resistance across the cooling circuit pins at the ECU connector and compare it to the chart, measure fuel pressure with and without the vacuum hose connected and with the engine running, and examine the AFM gear with a magnifying glass to see if you can find the original glue blobs and put it back to where it was.

Three videos about the 240Z here - http://wheelerdealers.discoveryuk.com/videos/ They're in a foreign language though. Spigots, motion shafts....

Wow, I never saw that. So it's possible that he's seen all of the bad press on this forum. Maybe we drove him in to changing his identity. It's a shame that he didn't keep the old name and just own his past mistakes. That would be impressive and noteworthy.

I'm humbled. I got a twofer. The lights are so bright.

Thanks for those pictures Tomzern and site. Those are the first I've actually seen, and they do look like the way a factory would do it, crude but effective. My thorough side though, sees that one block is from Europe and the other from SE Asia. Tasmania. Australia. I wonder if the US models are the same. Curious enough to get me to remove a head some day if I ever find a Maxima in the wrecking yards. Those who think the Maxima head is of high value should read up on "quench". It's not a major power booster, and some people think that Nissan didn't get it quite right. The bigger valve is worth something for sure. The cam profile would be worth knowing too. I'm not sure the true added-value matches the mystique though. And there are some odd theories proposed out there about how smaller valves increase performance due to air flow velocity increase. Anyway, a person can't go wrong saving these old L engine parts either way.

It's either a new start,with all that he's learned from past mistakes, or he's hiding from his old company's bad reputation. Datsun Parts is now California Datsun. http://www.californiadatsun.com/engine/cylinder-heads/ He is putting his face out there though - http://www.californiadatsun.com/contact-owner-al-allen-of-california-datsun-inc.html And two pages of only excellent reviews - http://www.californiadatsun.com/testimonials/

I'm basically playing devil's advocate I guess. I would like to see an actual factory block with factory-notched bores. I just haven't seen it in all of the 5+ years I've been on the forums, and all of the old posts I've read from way back in that time. I get that an L28 head on an L24 bore would need it. Can't see that a Maxima L24E head on a Maxima L24 block would. The valves are the same size as 260Z valves (looked them all up on OReilly auto Parts). Only the exhaust valve, the smaller valve, is bigger in the Maxima head than in L24 heads. So, it's not a valve size thing, it would have to be a combustion chamber shape and valve seat placement issue. But I think that is determined by the cam, and rocker arms, which are the same. My logic center just can't find a reason that the Maxima N47 head isn't a straight bolt-on, and there doesn't seem to be any evidence, despite all of those Maxima engines out there. Maybe Tomzern has the first one. Considering the bigger valve (one) and the slight bump in CR, it's surprising that more people haven't just swapped the complete L24E engine in to their 240Z's. Looks like it has the carb manifold mounting holes. Anyway, let's see how this plays out. Tomzern, where's your camera?

The question remains though as to what you have. You might have an L28 N47 head on an L24 block, that somebody notched to make it work. There's a whole other recent thread on this forum about that. It's fairly common, to get the bigger valves. We'll know more when you figure out what head you have.

Have to disagree. The nicks seen could be from worn valve guides with a close tolerance. Machining the block is actual money spent by the company that could be avoided. Potential money savings in high production automotive factories is one of the most powerful force you'll ever find. Pennies matter.

Here's another informative thread with all the pictures you need, I think. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96188-my-200-l28-surprise/