Zed Head

The dual piston master cylinder relies on pressure buildup in both systems to work properly. The pistons are stacked. So if one system doesn't build pressure you lose about 1/2 of the total stroke, which makes everything difficult. People often have problems bleeding the brake upgrades. Calipers from other cars end up oriented incorrectly. I'd make sure that the end of the passage from the bleed screw is actually at the top of the piston cylinder. You can tell from the casting shape. Some calipers have the screw in one spot and the passage goes sideways to the piston bore. And four piston calipers probably have even more volume than the stock calipers, plus two high spots per side for bubbles to sit in. Study the calipers and where the bubbles would be. If you don't have a helper, position a mirror over the reservoirs, or contort yourself, and watch what happens when you pump. That's how I discovered my upside down caliper problem. Large volume leaves, then large volume comes back. That's not right.

Have you bled the fronts yet or are you trying to be methodical? I would jump ahead to the fronts. Sometimes have you go through the cycle a few times. If there's a ton of air in the front calipers you might be draining the reservoirs without realizing it. Pumping the fluid down until air is being pushed in then it all comes back out when you release the pedal. Or, you might be letting the pedal come back too far when pumping and going too slow. You want to pump quickly, and low on the pedal, so that the return hole in the reservoir is not uncovered for long. But that's with the fronts. The calipers hold a lot of fluid, and can hold a lot of air. Then, of course, there's always the upside down caliper problem. The bleed screws need to be on top. Easier to get to on the bottom but not where the air is .

Does the pedal pump up, but no fluid will come out of the open rear brake line no matter how hard you push? Or does the pedal just never pump up? The first would be an indicator of a blockage, the second, a blockage and a pressure build problem. You might bleed the fronts well to allow easier pressure buildup and see if that will blow any junk out of the line.

Groovy. Looks like Amazon sells those too. When I'm trying to find a picture of a part I usually get on Rockauto. Lots of pictures, instructions, and part numbers. You can either buy there or take the part number elsewhere.

jxq must have me on Ignore User.

That's a lot of gas. Scary.

Found some pictures on the interweb. So you're going to test JMortensen's old boss's theory, that a Porsche synchro ring is a direct fit in a Nissan transmission. Should be informative.

Where did you order it from? Pictures? I'd like to see what, exactly, a servo synchro looks like.

I think that the assumption was that the gas leaking from the damper caused the pressure drop. That would be a lot of gas though. In general, pulsing and vibration cause wear and damage. I wonder if the damper isn't also for durability of the other parts of the system. The injectors and FPR and pump would all feel the shock of the pressure pulses from the injectors opening and closing. Even the fuel hoses would pulse. Might just be for wear and tear, in addition to noise. Seems like pump noise could be handles with mounting insulation, hard to see that as the only reason.

I have a brass electrode cap on my engine. It's BWD brand, made at the same place as Standard. Turns out Standard makes two styles, a brass electrode model, and a T series aluminum. The T series is the economy model. Arnie probably found one and won't be back.

Assuming the transmission goes with it? We just had a whole discussion about the manifold thermostat, which can be seen in your picture. Looks like a 72 or higher L24, or an L26. Look at the flat spot above the starter for stamped/engraved letters and numbers. It will say either L24 or L26. Could also be an L28 that's had carbs installed. Not much information. Since it has no running history, it's worth less than one coming from a car. A Pick n Pull wrecking yard would charge about $250 but you'd have to remove the engine yourself, let alone find one, so yours is easier. If you just want to move it quickly, $200 would probably draw a buyer, just to have it as a spare. The 4 speed transmissions aren't worth much though. Everybody has one left in their garage after swapping a 5 speed in.

Exactly!

Interesting that the BMW's they're on use the newer style fuel pumps. Similar pump and engines overall to our Z's. Must serve some useful purpose. Looks like your local auto store might be able to get them, but you might have to ask for AC parts.

Blocking the heater hoses and the manifold line would answer some questions. Super easy. No down side, in Panama when it's 80 degrees outside.

They have them at OReilly auto.

Alright site, you made me feel bad. Removing all of my comments, useful and otherwise. He/she can start anew.

I was fixing it while you posted. I fixed the bad one.

Do over.

They really weren't that bad...

Never mind.

Where?

How did you even see that? Most of us would have just put the thing together, there would have been some odd noise during the first few clutch disengagements, and the rivet tops would have worn off. Problem only discovered, maybe, years later. Also, is it possible that you were looking at it with the disc backward? The normal contact spot, if the disc is backward, is the hub on the fly wheel bolts, but if you were just looking at disc and plate, you wouldn't notice that.

Lesson - don't make decisions during happy hour. Ponder, yes - decide, no.

Pretty sure that's a 1975 280Z brochure. The caps on the rear strut towers, one fusible link, regulator exposed, and the writing about "all the traditions of the 240Z and 260Z updated". Still makes me want to buy one. And where's my "surrounded by tinted glass"? Pretty sure my 76 doesn't have any at all.

When the wheels are hanging the u-joints of the driveshafts/halfshafts have too much angle and will bind. Clang, clang, clang as they pop around. If you want to test it on jacks spread the load with some wood under the control arms, to load the suspension and get the drive shafts in a normal position. If you want to just check u-joints, it's best to use a screwdriver to pry the joint around with a bright light so you can see any movement. Also look for rust dust around the bearing cup seals.