Zed Head

https://pitchfork.com/news/nirvana-sued-by-baby-from-nevermind-album-artwork-for-child-pornography/

If it's a Standard, it's "in spec". https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45627&cc=1209170&pt=4884&jsn=844 https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/154/GF10221B.pdf MECHANIC'S SERVICE TIPS (MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS) TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION FEATURES All VRs are designed to compensate for changes in temperature, matching the output voltage to the needs of the battery. They produce higher voltage in cold weather and lower voltage in warm weather, especially the electromechanical type. This in turn affects the voltage calibration, therefore you should always operate a voltage regulator for 20 minutes to stabilize the internal heating effects before checking the voltage setting. Voltage specifications of regulators after 20 minutes warm up (at 70 °F) are 13.5 - 15.0 volts for alternator output currents between 3 - 21 amp.

You might just clean up your voltage regulator and alternator connections to start off. The regulator senses the alternator output and regulates accordingly. If it's sensing incorrectly, maybe through a corroded connection, it might be allowing too much voltage. Find that page I copied from and you'll see that the VR is adjustable. You could tune it down if the voltage stays high. EE-23 shows the adjustment process. Assuming that you still have the external regulator. If you have already converted to an internal reg alternator, then move the end of the sense wire closer to the alternator output and/or clean those connections too.

Just remembered that my favorite square head bolt tool is a large Crescent (adjustable) wrench. The 12 inch model was surprisingly strong. https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-AT212VS-Finish-Adjustable-Wrench/

Where are you getting this reading from? A 73 alternator with external regulator can reach 15 volts. It would be normal for certain temperatures.

An old thread with pictures so you can see what you might dealing with.

There are descriptions around the internet of people using long skinny tools and amazing eyesight being able to push the tensioner piston back in to its bore, and getting things back together. I think that there are also stories of people spending a lot of time trying this before giving up and taking the front cover off. Can't hurt to poke around down there and see what your abilities are.

The thickness and color of the wire makes me think it's alternator/fusible link related.

The old fashioned original impact tools work well. Three pound sledge and a hefty wrench. Pipe wrench or a solid open end wrench. More slow motion high mass inertia than high speed low mass.

You will get a low number if one of those tube adapters is used in the spark plug hole. It increases the effective combustion chamber size. Five 110's and a 100 looks pretty even overall. Four is the dirty one though and he shows three as the low pressure. So, bad oil ring seems to fit best. Bummer. I'd run a hot plug in #4 to keep it clean. I think it's been suggested before.

Heat makes a big difference. Expands the aluminum and softens the sealer. Even one of those blow dryer heat guns, doesn't have to be a flame.

Just noticed the back plate. 2002.

The car is down there in harmony01's neighborhood, and, "Location is approximate". I missed the "See more" on the description. Lost title. Needs driveway space. Not clear if he ever had the title in his name. Still has Washington plates. PLEASE READ (If posted in the wrong area please delete) I AM TAKING SERIOUS OFFERS ON THE CAR Hello, I am selling this 1971 datsun 240z It has a manual transmission that shifts great Not really in a rush to get rid of it but the extra driveway space would be nice. The car ran perfectly but the carb was acting up so it was removed and it hasn’t been put back on since. Floor pans and battery tray need to be replaced, lost the title (but it is clean) a while ago, carburetor not included, tiny spots of rust here and there but overall good condition. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask, thanks

Not much description. Probably wrong. I think I see a 91. That's 40k in 20 years.

Don't forget the scissor jack on the rocker sill point for lifting. Might as well try it to see if you'll be able to change a flat tire because that's all you'll have and that's how it's done. You'll still want jack stands before you crawl under.

People are placing a lot of value on the 400Z and the marketing hype. I would have taken the money. Doubtful that the work done was worth the difference. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-183/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-155/ 57,500 - 24,240 = 33,260

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/shocks-struts/shock-strut/75de62e0ee1b/v/a/6638/automotive-car-1979-nissan-280zx?q=shock%2Fstrut

It could be. Or it could be a bad bushing. Or a bad shock bushing. Lift, grab, wiggle, listen, look. The cars are old and the rubber degrades. You'll probably find something.

Found some good communications to lower the hesitancy for the younger crowd. https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/drake-losing-hair-covid-19-160106536.html

It would be interesting to see when the part number changed for the switch if it did. 1976 is definitely a different diagram, I think.

It might just be that the parts changed but the diagrams did not. There are other diagrams that don't keep up with the actual parts. Or, the switch has been replaced along the way with a newer part. Trust but verify, I guess.

Thanks for the comments cgsheen1. I'm just trying to figure out things using the wiring diagram.

Nice video. Now I'm left wondering if a 72 will Start with the wires switched. The switch diagram shows just one power source for the coil for either Start or On, there should be no power there at Start if the wires are switched. The 71 diagram shows all 5 pins powered at Start though. If we only had the 71 diagram there wouldn't really be a discussion. Anyway, looks like a stuck or bad tachometer.

The question isn't "will it run" it's "will it start". The later switch diagrams, like the 72 diagram from EuroDat above, show separate power circuits to the coil. A Start circuit and a Run/On circuit.

You can just use your meter and disconnect the starter solenoid wire so the engine doesn't turn (for the quiet). See which wires have power at each key position.