Zed Head

If the system is not intact you can suck a lot of air through the PCV valve. How did you keep the engine from revving to 8000 RPM with no throttle blade?

So you can sit in the garage and let it rev at 3000 and no heat increase? Just trying to add something. The more words the better. Good luck.

That was after the driving. I'm wondering about repeatability under no-load conditions. Just another clue. You don't have many right now.

Is the PCV system intact? Might be pulling through the PCV valve on the bottom of the intake manifold.

If it moves up and down with engine RPM then it must be sensing the current. Since it's designed for a 4 cylinder engine you'd think it would be more responsive on a 6 cylinder, not less. 50% more sparks than expected. Kind of sounds like it has problems.

Actually, most people "fix" it so that they can go racing or making large amounts of high RPM power, as described in those Hybridz threads. Most of the people that have problems are exceeding the design limits of the engine. Your situation is interesting because you had the common engine problems that many people have. No high RPM dyno runs or race miles. But, anyway, you've accomplished your mission. Another thread about the slipping oil pump shaft drive gear. Plus it has links to two others now. It would be cool to see a good one and a slipped one side-by-side though. If you ever get the chance.

Caveat emptor

What happens if you just raise the RPM while sitting in neutral? Can you get the needle to go up and down without a load? It kind of looks like what you might expect if the radiator was not actually removing much heat. Is your heater core intact and connected or has somebody "bypassed" it? The bypass allows coolant to pass through the block and back to the pump without passing through the radiator. Effectively reduces pump capacity. Another thought is that the water pump impeller blades are shot and not moving much coolant.

I get the impression from the various comments around the internet that people feel that there are more buyers than cars out there, therefore if a car is priced appropriately it will always sell. In other words there is a group of many buyers out there looking to buy. Maybe that's not the case and the number of buyers/collectors is actually limited. I also had the impression that the car probably had more value as a collector car than an enthusiast's car, like you're implying above. If I was a collector I would cringe at the driving video, each rev to 6000 RPM was subtracting value. But as an enthusiast it was fun to watch.

The reason to verify is so that you can fix it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106792-slop-in-the-distributor-drive/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115353-l28et-issues-oil-pump-shaft-gear-spun/

Maybe he had a bit too much fun in the driving video. I think on a one week auction your timing has to be pretty good. August is not a great time for selling either, I think. The people with the extra money are often spending it on vacation. Spring is when you want to sell. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-86/

I recall reading about that but the gear also moved up the shaft. A comparison of shafts or a measurement should show something. Without that it's just a guess.

Even though the fuel pump motor is bathed in gasoline it can still overheat and stop working. People have reported similar in the past. No ideas on the two things happening on the same trip. The starter motor draws a lot more amps than the fuel pump. Once the solenoid is engaged it has its own dedicated big wire circuit.

It's normal. Make sure that you really want the part and that there are very good odds that it will work though. The same problems exist on returning a product.

The diagram suggests that the short that blows your flasher fuse would be in the Hazard switch, or the flasher unit itself, or the wires between the fuse and the flasher unit. The flasher unit provides resistance to stop a short to ground after it from blowing the fuse, I think. Edit - but it would have to be a constant short circuit that doesn't pull enough to blow the fuse by itself. Using the signal switch pushes it over the edge. Since the signal switch completes the circuit to ground. The voltage is always in the wires.

What about the flasher fuse? That's the one that is blowing, right?

The dot is only for aiming. The measured area might be much broader. The farther the device is from the area, the broader the area is that is measured. Probably best to hold the pyrometer straight and scan over the fuses if you want to find a hot one. And the closer the better for a small area. There is a bunch out there about all of the various details, some it way in to the weeds. Here's one reference. They're not really designed for small area measurements. I have one that has a socket for a thermocouple. That's what you'd really want for measuring fuses and other small areas. https://www.williamsonir.com/blog/3-tips-proper-pyrometer-maintenance/ " For single-wavelength sensors, alignment is critical as the pyrometer takes an average temperature of whatever it sees in its field of view. Therefore a single-wavelength pyrometer needs a full field of view of the target to make an accurate measurement, so as not to average in other non-target temperatures. "

The technical parts of the thread were interesting. Thanks to all that contributed. It's still an interesting topic. I'd like to see the instructions for building the steering wheel, from the factory. That would be cool. You can see that they covered up a pretty ugly piece of steel. The welds aren't even very good.

To the guy on the BATS discussion. Never mind.

Not me. You're projecting that other guys comments on to me. I don't need help.

Consider adding a load test to your repertoire. A test light that pulls a few amps. Connections can open when they heat up from the current.

Actually, you didn't really say much in that post. A few names to research if a person wanted to, quotes of someone else's posts. Kind of thin. No details, just references to broad processes. Anyway, manufacturing of parts like this is an interesting topic, when you get in to the fine details. Where the technology becomes more like art. Overall, in this case, it seems that the process of forming the wood was almost too good. So good that the final product seems like plastic.

My description was based around "how do they get the steel in to the wood and keep it there?", how do they keep the wood from regaining its original form, and the hot technologies of the time. It certainly could be wood. Steam bending/forming is an ancient ship building technique. Resin infusion of wood is a thing also. So it might have started as a solid piece of wood but had resin infused to lock it in to shape once it was formed. If I was doing the forensics I would look very closely at where the steel contacts the wood. The inside not the outside. The fine details around the weld beads and where the spokes enter might tell a story. You could also burn a piece and see what it smells like and how it smokes. Polymers/plastics have a distinctive odor when they burn and tend to produce a black smoke. Many ways to get there, probably many technologies involved, probably combined to get the desired end result. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_bending https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impregnation_resin#:~:text=The impregnation of resins into,into a solid substance state.

I just skimmed over the thread. But it seems likely that this would be a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite, with the original bulk material in the form of what would be called "bulk-molding" compound. A blend of wood fibers and reactive resin ( the precursor to a polymer) that would have the consistency of Play-doh. In that era the typical resin might be a polyester, like they used for surfboards. The mold might be pre-coated with a clear resin, similar to how hot tubs are made, maybe a polyurethane clear coat, for durability and weather resistance. Then the molding compound and steel frame would be placed in to the mold on top of the previously sprayed coating and the mold halves pressed together to form the wheel, then the whole assembly placed in to an oven or autoclave for curing. The end result is a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite with a hard durable clear coating. The coating is then polished to give the final surface. So, definitely not just "plastic" unless you consider the wings of a stealth fighter to be plastic. But, not really wood either. A high-tech, for the time, product designed to look like wood but be better than wood. Wood has problems. Just one possibility. You can't spend a lot of time arguing with people who rail against "plastic:". The word is just too undefined, it doesn't really mean much. Literally, it means "formable".

I don't think that you're talking about the same measurement.