Zed Head

Here's something from a guy who seems to know what he's doing. He did a nice writeup on the "bellhousing' swap for the 71C - 71B 5 speeds. He put a lot of thought into it. Nigel. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bdisc#entry1060325

The race guys say that the best way to stiffen up a Z body is with a roll cage. You might consider that if you're just looking for resurrection and not restoration. Use the cage as the central structure, like a tube frame. Or just build a hybrid tube frame/monocoque chassis.

Sometimes you just gotta work through the pages. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/

Realized that Monster screwed up and that I was just being paranoid. I had clicked "send me similar jobs" on Monster for a single job description and instead of doing so Monster sent me a bunch of "finish job application" notices. The old "bait and switch", still alive, but with modern technology behind it. I'm running Google Chrome in Incognito mode so the Firefox stuff won't help. Thanks though. Pretty sure though that as fast a blockers are developed, ways-around follow. I still get videos that play automatically even though I have every possible blocking tool I can find loaded.

These engines will actually run really well with a rich mixture. So the new tune and clean that was done might still give a great running motor, but still give dirty plugs. (Edit - meant to say that a bad pump and rich running may not be related.) Plus, mailbox trips tend to not warm the engine up completely. Not a criticism, just a reality. Anyway, it turns out the plugs are still from when it was running poorly. I've kind of ignored the odd details and focused on the engine dying. That's the biggy. You can ramble around the country-side with a lean condition causing poor throttle response, or a rich condition causing watery eyes from the gassy smell, but engine dying tops them both. As many of us know, these engines will run very poorly for a long time, without dying. Engine dying and not restarting is unusual. Too bad about the tachometer. It's a good diagnostic tool, but they do go bad. I have a 78 tach in my 76. My 76 tachometer started hanging up when it got warm. I think that you're right about the EFI glitch causing the short-term stumbling while warming up. The AAR keeps RPM up for a short time when cold and if it closes a bit early there won't be enough air for the engine's temperature for it to run well. I wouldn't worry about it now, as part of the big problem. If it's consistent, you can just live with it while trying to figure out the dying issue.

This is from way back in the thread. It seems like the original problem is still there. I would venture that there three things that might cause the rough-running then dying. Bad ignition module - usually happens when the module gets warm, either after extended driving or after hitting high RPM. I had one that would always go bad after going above 3000 RPM. On mine, the tachometer needle would start jumping around and reading incorrectly, along with the rough running. Bad ECU - broken solder joints and/or bad transistors can happen. I've read several accounts of bad solder joints causing extra-rich (over-fueling) poor running. I also had an ECU that ran fine then just coughed once and died. Then it restarted a few times while tried to make it home. Bad fuel pump - the fuel pumps can overheat internally and lose power. Fast Woman has written about her pump in her 78 car that would start the engine and allow driving then slowly lose power and die. Let it cool down and it would do it again. I had a pump on my injector tester that would run fine for about 20 minutes then slowly lose power and pressure. 1. The fuel pump issue is easy to see IF you have a gauge mounted where it can be seen when the engine won't restart, or while driving. 2. The ignition modules can be tested with "freeze" spray. (actually this might be tough for Jai since it's up under the dash on the passenger side). Or by checking for spark when the engine won't start. Carry a spare plug, pull a wire, and check for spark. Difficult without a helper. Practice checking for spark when it's in good shape so you know what you're looking for. 3. The ECU is a tough one because it appears to be either too many injections or too long injections. Easiest is if you have a spare to swap in. Swap and hope. Just some thoughts, I didn't see any of these addressed WHILE the problem was happening. Sporadic problems are the worst, you have to be ready to jump out and start testing right away. At least you now have an engine that you know will run well. Considering the work that was done that improved everything, the filter changes and connection cleaning, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the fuel pump. The pump motor is exposed to the fuel, so old wet fuel can corrode motor parts also.

You can change cruising speed with a different differential. On that topic though, be aware that 1975 has an odd bolt pattern on the differential. So if you do swap differentials, you'll need to get a 76-78 propeller shaft (center driveshaft). Or swap pinion flanges. On the wheels - it's tire diameter that matters. A "normal" 14 wheel can have the same diameter as a 16" wheel with a low profile tire. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.do On transmissions - many people focus on cruise but they should really focus on 1st gear.

That's a sign of a failed booster. They seem to be hard to find these days, so good luck. Brake dust is worn shoe material. A lot of dust means a lot of wear. Are you sure the shoes are still okay?

Find an 80-83 280ZX with a good engine and 5 speed and swap them in. Use your intake and exhaust manifolds. That would be the most cost-effective way to get there, I think. Keep your old engine for "building" if you decide you want more performance. You'll have a DD and an engine project to work on.

I can understand the Michelin, maybe, if you had a bad experience. But children? C'mon.

Are the parts moving correctly? 1976 has the sliding wheel cylinder. It has to move freely.

I don't really see any signs of moisture either. Coolant in the cylinders tends to clean them up. The good - it doesn't look like a major engine problem. The bad - still unknown. Maybe Steve should have put those 240Z carbs on there...

All that should happen when you tighten the lug nut is pulling the center of the wheel in to the axle flange. I wouldn't take apart the axle assembly, nothing's changing in there when you clamp the wheel center to the flange.

Funny, I noticed the jack also. Sensitivity. That old lady has some nice shoes.

I was on Monster.com the other day looking at jobs and saved a bunch of links to my computer. I was logged in to Hotmail at the same time. The next day I had a bunch of emails from Monster about my incomplete job applications. I hadn't logged in to Monster so obviously Monster knew that it was me on their site because Hotmail (Microsoft) had shared the fact that it was me on the Monster.com site. Actually, I think that it's probably an error that exposed the fact the Monster and Hotmail share user information, since I didn't start an application for any of the jobs that I saved the links for. Any web gurus or conspiracy theorists know anything about sharing information between sites? Does Monster own Hotmail now, or vice-versa? Kind of irritating that you can't trust any internet site at all now for confidentiality. A complaint and a share, combined. The internet is becoming one huge psyche-exploring machine.

Sorry, thought it hadn't started since the last problem. So you have a sporadic problem. You can still tell coolant leaks from over-fueling and/or oil by examining the plugs. Several to many people over the years have described a random problem with their ECU where it will start adding way too much fuel, running very rich. Then they tap or beat on the ECU or wiggle the wires to the connector and the problem fixes itself. But, I guess the real problem here is finding someone to do these tests for you. Aren't there some kids in the neighborhood that need something to fill their time, and have internet access?

People get screwed up on smoke "color" often. If you haven't seen most of the possible colors and known what causes them you can be mislead. Better to use other clues, like smell. Coolant leaks smell sweet if you're running antifreeze. Too much fuel smells gassy, of course. Oil leaks smell like oil, again, of course. If the engine dies and won't restart, checking the plugs is a good idea. A coolant leak will look different than over-fueling. And, typically, a coolant leak due to a head gasket will only affect one or two cylinders. Usually the engine will start but it will run poorly. So blown head gasket seems like stretch. The fact that yours won't start at all leads more to the fueling/flooding problem. Which is common when the ECU goes bad. Checking the plugs will tell a lot though. I wouldn't give up on it yet. Pull all six spark plugs and examine.

I shortened your story to the most basic stuff. You never said if it ran well before it was stored or even if it was you that stored it. It sat for at least a year, did you drain the fuel or add new fuel? Could be just bad gas. You haven't mentioned the most basic thing, checking for spark at a plug wire. But you did say that it tried to start with fluid, which is a sign that there is spark. But you're not using the starter fluid correctly, it needs to be sprayed in to the manifold, either right before or during cranking. You also haven't confirmed that the firing order is correct. Rough running after working on the plugs and wires is often caused by installing the wires incorrectly. I don't want to short-circuit (pun) everyone's suggestions but it seems to me that confirming firing order, and using the starting fluid correctly while cranking the engine would tell you quite a bit. And/or checking for spark at a plug wire. You're about to dig deep in to an engine that, apparently, was running okay recently. Might be getting ahead of yourself.

I was one that said I had removed my CSV, and the engine does start okay, but is slow on days when the engine bay is cold. Pretty sure it's all about vaporization. If the morning is foggy and it's cold out, the best starting routine is to crank it for a few revolutions, let it sit for about 10 seconds, then start it. Otherwise I do get extended cranking time. On a cold morning, but with sun on the hood of the car, it will start right up. The only decent explanation, to me, is cold metal hindering fuel vaporization. I also mentioned holding the throttle open while cranking as a way to get it to start faster, hence the discussion about clear-flood mode. "Vapor lock" doesn't happen on the EFI cars, they're high pressure systems. Plus the fact that vapor lock is a heat problem, and yous is a cold one. I can understand wanting a quick start like a modern car. Just not sure it's easy to get to. Note also, that the fuel manufacturers change the formulation in the winter time for faster vaporization. This may be applying in your case. New fuel blends start flowing in September, apparently. About time for more "hot start problem" posts. Here's some articles. It's a fun topic. Couldn't find any Iowa specific pages. http://newsroom.aaa.com/2013/06/what-is-the-difference-between-summer-and-winter-blend-gasoline/ https://blog.gasbuddy.com/posts/U-S-moves-back-to-winter-gasoline/1715-584804-2663.aspx http://www.pennlive.com/midstate/index.ssf/2015/09/gas_prices_to_be_pushed_lower.html

To the post #1 point - I think that Nissan had the in-flow hose passing through the water-coks, then the heater core, then out to the pump inlet. Yours looks like it might be straight to the core then exiting through the coks to the pump inlet. Have to see what's in the cabin to know for sure. Maybe yours is that way just for convenience or confusion. All it's done though is reverse the flow path through the cabin heating system. The whole system gets pressurized so it doesn't matter much. Probably bothers the engineers out there though.

Wasn't sure which are you were working on. Maybe you got a 280Z mount. The parts manual shows two numbers, before and after 8/73. Regardless, shaving some rubber won't hurt anything. Just more work. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine240Z260Z/EngineMounting/ManualFromCHLS30-46001,RLS30,GRLS30/tabid/1595/Default.aspx http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/EngineMounting/tabid/1629/Default.aspx Sorry about your hair...

#9 #9 #9 #9.... Edit - added a better picture.

Where's the u-shaped piece that keeps the engine from moving forward and backward?

I had the same problem a while ago. If I remember right, I left the mounting bolts loose so the mount could "rooster" a little bit and allow the various bolts and studs and holes to align. Once the engine weight was on them the rest was easy. Edit - actually, I think that I had to use an awl to shift the mount over to get the bolts through the holes after the stud was in the hole. They didn't drop in to place. I think I did the same with my transmission mount.

Done. Dude.