Zed Head

1971 has the proportioning valve in the back. Later cars have it up front. The thing in Chickenman's Post 24 is the warning light switch. John Coffey says that they get stuck sometimes. But it doesn't meter pressure or flow, it just shows when there's a an imbalance. All described in the manuals.

One other benefit of PCV is that the vacuum, and the flow of fresh air through the crankcase, will purge moisture and any raw fuel from the oil. I had a clogged PCV system on my Pathfinder and milky gunk started to build up on the oil filler cap. Fixed the clog and it never came back. PCV has many positives.

For less than $5400 you could probably get this shipped to your place - http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/5280971074.html Here's one that was mentioned recently - http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/5360307108.html $7000 seems like a lot of money for a basket-case.

Don't replace the ECU. If you hear the injectors clicking, then it's performing its main function. The ECU's typically fail by dumping too much fuel (flooding) or none at all. But if you're injectors are clicking they are opening and closing like they're supposed to. Are you sure you're actually hearing the injectors? You should hear all six click at the same time, each time you break the power circuit. I'm going to hit on the starting fluid anomaly again. Starting fluid is a very volatile fuel, too volatile to use to drive on, but designed to get an engine spinning so that the normal control system can supply gasoline appropriately. You're not even getting a "pop" with starting fluid. You should be able to completely remove the ECU and the AFM and the throttle body and "run" the engine with starting fluid. The fact that you can't indicates a problem unrelated to the ECU and AFM's functions. They're not the cause, from what I see. The ECU and AFM only control gasoline supply, that's it. With starting fluid, you don't need gasoline, therefore you don't need the AFM and ECU. I repeated myself, to try and get this point through. You're outside of the ECU/AFM EFI system diagnostics. You have a basic engine mechanical or ignition problem. Hard to tell what it is, since you did get cylinder pressure, and you have seen spark. Here's a simple test to see if your ignition timing is close. Get the ignition timing mark at about 10 degrees, the rotor inside the distributor cap pointing at the #1 cylinder (the one at the front of the engine), and the cam lobes of that same cylinder pointing up (valves closed). All you need to do is remove the valve cover. Much cheaper than a new ECU. Also, I notice that your starting fluid contain "upper cylinder lubricant". Could be that it's old and the volatiles have been used up and you're just spraying lubricant. Who knows. Get a new can of high-power gas engine starting fluid, to be sure. You're testing looks great but there's still a basic problem. Hate to see people buy expensive parts that they don't need.

Pins 16 and 35 are ground circuits. That "point" is the one that you said was missing earlier, from siteunseen's picture, in Post #19. If you measure low resistance to the body or the battery negative cable, you're probably fine there. Funny, but there is so much information out there and so many different ways to do things that new things keep popping up. New to me anyway. You've been focused on the flashing light method, but your first picture above shows the sound method. I was aware of it but hadn't thought to mention it. Some of use use a jumper to coil negative to do the same test. Didn't know the Guide had a variant. Do you get any clicks if you try that method? I posted a copy of your copy. Also, are those your notes written by each test procedure? Looks like the harness has already been repaired, what would you do differently? Sorry to keep jumping on your posts. If someone else wants a piece of the action, please enter the fray.

Saw these on eBay. Somebody who wants that special green color and official A18-0000 part number may buy them. Who knows. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280Z-280ZX-FUEL-INJECTORS-NOS-NA-NON-TURBO-NEW-RARE-/271939381449?hash=item3f50d9a8c9:g:trwAAOSwDNdVss7g

Can't be this one - http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/5358538877.html Must be this one - http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/5360307108.html $1 price almost always means that they want too much money and are afraid to post a number. Who knows. Too bad there's not a trailer as part of the package.

Here's what they show in the 72 FSM. They only describe the reverse flow in words here. In later FSM's I think that they added another picture with arrows showing reverse flow.

There's a good diagram of air/vapor flow in the Emissions chapter of the FSM's. Might give some ideas. Without the lower passageway you basically just end up a with a stagnant zone in the crankcase so the blowby byproducts will condense out into the oil. But the large diameter crankcase tube connects to a fairly small PCV valve so you're not losing as much flow volume as you might think.

For example, the coolant temperature sensor. If it is properly connected, and it shows .000 resistance at the 35 pin connector, that's a problem. The injector circuits have a resistance spec. also.

Test at the ECU connector and get real resistance numbers. The Fuel Injection Guides have great pictures of the connector pinout and test procedures in a well laid-out format. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php Still, it should start with starter fluid...

FCUK = Football Club, United Kingdom. English soccer team.

gone = Blue? It seems like the ads load faster than usual now, and there are no autoplay noises or videos on this site, or the few other sites I visit. So, overall, not too bad. Sorry Mike but I almost never "click-through" to another site. I'm a bad user. I remember when cable TV was being promoted a "pay" service, with no commercials. Look how that turned out. Now we pay to watch commercials and suffer aggravation just to get connected. Pus, all of the cable providers are going to digital now so that they can see what we're watching. So, if you're concerned about being watched you'll need to get rid of your cable service also. Or go back to over-the-air analog signals. I think that there are still a few out there. Anybody remember UHF?

I like Terro myself. http://www.hotshot.com/products-and-solutions/ant-roach-control/hot-shot-ant-killer-plus4.aspx But maybe you mean this - http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30201 The small spade terminal on the solenoid would be the correct one then. You probably want a female spade terminal though, not a ring. Some cars probably use a ring terminal but ours don't. You know that you can make a remote engine bumper from a two foot piece of wire with two bare ends?

Out or in? The gas cap should let air in at some low vacuum level so that excess vacuum does not happen.You can see the little valve on the inside of the cap, and pry it up with your finger. It vents through small holes though and is hard to check for proper operation. The charcoal canister and vent lines should let excess pressure out, again at some low pressure number. On the issue with pressing the clutch, putting in gear, and it dying. Do you rev the engine beforehand, or just let it idle and go directly to clutch and gear shift lever? A cold transmission will have thick gear oil and put a load on the engine. If the idle is low, and the engine idles rich, it might be on the edge of dying and the extra work kills it. Then the plugs are wet and you have to wait for them to dry. If you get a chance and can find someone to do it (crawling around under the dash) fixing your tachometer would give a fantastic diagnostic tool. Not knowing your idle speed and being unable to see spark by the tachometer action is really leaving you in the dark/dusk. OR, if you have one of those old-timey tune-up dwell tools with a tachometer function, or a meter with a tachometer function, or a meter with a Hertz function, you could see spark activity that way also. also, since it takes three hours to re-start, might as well have an old spark plug handy to stick in a wire and look for spark. Spark, spark, spark...is it there?

That's a good one. I just didn't have a way to lift. I had assumed that the length of the transmission would give enough leverage to muscle it up, but there wasn't enough room under the car to work. Here's another tool to consider if you're hanging the engine from the rafters. I know people shy away from that but it really depends on where you're working and how you distribute the load. A chain-hoist is much easier to use than a come-along. Might be easier to use than hydraulics. http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Industrial-HOIST-CHAIN-TON/dp/B000INSJKC

Seems like there's a clue in these statements. Engine is cold, driver gets in and starts engine, starts up normally(?), engine is running at normal AAR-controlled high idle RPM, (tachometer still broken so sound-based), driver gets out, engine runs for a certain amount of time (how long?), maybe to a certain engine temperature (how hot?), door is opened, driver gets back in, [undefined things happen (clutch pedal pressed (?), transmission put in to gear (?), clutch released (?)], engine dies. Engine is restarted and runs fine ? (not clear). Add some detail to "before I could press the gas to go" and what happens after it died. Might be something there. Sorry to be so pedantic, just wanted to detail my point.

If you drop the pair in as a unit I hope you have a leveler. I had a heck of a time lifting the tail of the transmission up to the mount without one. Also found that leaving most of the mount bolts, even those in to the block, slightly loose made it easier to get them all started. Once they're all in, tighten them up. I've only done one though.

The small flat one is the "activation" wire. The big one at the top is where the cable from the battery's positive post connects. Leave the bottom one as it is, it's already connected properly. It allows power to the starter motor after the solenoid is activated. By "S terminal" do you mean S at the ignition switch? From the wiring diagram? I believe that is the correct one.

Any thoughts on what was holding it? When I pulled mine I found that there was deformation on both the casting and the pin at the lock bolt hole. I ran a rat-tail file thorough the casting to knock the high spots down.

I had a similar problem with stock calipers long ago and it was loose wheel bearings, and bad roads. Depending on what side of the highway rut I was on the bearings would let the wheel ride up one rut or the other. After I fixed that problem, I was down to pulling only one way some times. That was caused by an old caliper matched to a new one. The pistons are pulled back in to the bore slightly by the elasticity of the seals. I assume that my seals behaved differently. Replaced the old caliper with a match for the new one and it's been fine. The seals in your calipers are 16 years old if got the details right. But loose parts, like those John Coffey suggested, or wheel bearings, are likely. Here's some stuff on seals, just for entertainment - http://www.autozone.co.za/index.php/function-of-caliper-seals

I suggested squirting in to the hose elbow but really you should squirt directly into the intake manifold. More vapor where it will get in to the cylinders. Good luck.

More thoughts - That bulb in the CSV plug may not respond fast enough to flash on the injector pulses. The circuit-closed duration is small at idle. You really really really should be able to get it to run, surge, and die, using starting fluid. Is it possible that the AFM vane is stuck closed, choking air supply? Rag in the air filter housing? Where are you applying the starter fluid? You should squirt it directly in to the intake manifold on the engine side of the throttle blade. A start and surge would at least let you know that the engine will run if fuel is supplied. Pull that hose off of the elbow and squirt a bunch in there. Bad fuel might also be "unlightable". Who knows. Pumping the throttle doesn't really do anything for EFI. There's no accelerator pump or acceleration fuel enrichment. Are you using real starting fluid or something that has worked for others, like brake cleaner or WD-40? People do that. There are two types of brake cleaner - chlorinated and "green" non-chlorinated. The chlorinated stuff doesn't burn. One more time on "it really should start with starting fluid if the mechanicals are right and you have spark". You should be able to completely remove the AFM and throttle body and squirt starting fluid in to the manifold hole and get it to start. Air, fuel, spark - start. It would just rev up and down as long as you squirted fluid but it should happen. Better to leave the throttle body on so that you have some control, but if I was in your spot that's what I would focus on. Get something to burn in the cylinders before worrying about the injectors.

You've covered all bases. I noticed this in your other picture but assumed that it had to be a closed elbow. But in the attached snip it looks like an open T. It would be a big vacuum leak. The crankcase, valve cover, and intake manifold are all connected.

I wonder if that isn't Oliver? He moved his business a few years, to Snohomish. His prices started rising recently and he's started charging high shipping fees. Not good. https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=zspecialties