Zed Head

If the AAR closes to the same spot consistently, but idle speed varies, then the problem is not in the AAR. My AAR worked correctly, and idle speed was consistent after warm-up. In the end, I was lucky enough to experience an engine with everything working correctly. But I also went through the phase of looking for alternative solutions. The factory parts will give consistent cold start and warm-up to a properly idling and performing engine, if they are working as they were meant to work.

An AAR that works correctly is pretty satisfying. It just works. Your varying idle speed might be due to one of your other problems, not the AAR. If you apply 12 volts to the AAR pins and it doesn't close completely, it's broke.

A ball valve with a cable would work. It would be, in essence, an idle speed control. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-Insert-Poly-Ball-Valve-POLYV34/300850934

Check the shipping on that eBay item. $20.

I've not seen that brand name before. Interesting. https://www.ftonline.co/product-category/electrical-parts/voltage-regulators/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/234598216098?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MOJzyVjhShe&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

What brand was the bad one?

The page you linked says the rotor only works with the Stage 4 kit. The Stage 4 kit page says that the calipers are huge. Can't tell what brand they are but that looks like the cause of your problem. Description - Stage 4 drilled, slotted and vented rotor. This rotor is zinc plated to prevent rusting. 10.8 inches in diameter. 22mm thickness. Only work with stage 4 front brake kit. https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/stage-4-front-big-brake-upgrade-kit-240z-260z-280z This brake kit comes with the following parts: 1. Enormous 4 piston calipers (43mm pistons)

The half-shaft rebuild would involve the ball bearings and their races. I found an older thread about. It should be in the Knowledge Base section. @Mike

You can find the same discussions on Hybridz.org. You're in that theory versus practice conundrum zone. The theory can be correct, but not matter in practice.

Not clear what you're saying, you showed a hole and an o-ring, and implied that hole was meant to be an ORB design. The Protrunerz site doesn't clearly say say it's an ORB hole. You're assuming it's an ORB hole. That's the part that needs defining. Looking at the ORB-8 at the end of the rail it's hard to imagine they'd forget to perform that operation on that hole. But, who knows, maybe that's what happened. I'm just here for the words... I did find some other images though that imply it's supposed to be ORB. But even they look a bit off. Seems like the fitting is not seated. Anyway, there are many ways. Carry on.

My first instinct when I saw the hole was maybe it's a tapered pipe thread. Following up on that, you could easily make it one. They seal just fine with a bit of thread sealant.

Edit - actually I can't tell what the Protunerz site is saying. It's not clear. "6AN orb Fuel gauge port"? See below. Which is it? I don't have much experience with AN threads fittings but the internet says it's a tapered thread flared fitting. The Proturnerz site says that's a 6AN hole, if it's the hole you're using. They mixed ORB with AN. Easy to see a mix-up. Full disclosure - I didn't even know what ORB was until just now. Thank you internet... https://protunerz.com/collections/fuel-rails/products/datsun-l-series-fuel-rail https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread https://hosebox.com/insights/orb-fittings-explained-selection-setup/ CNC Anodized BILLET Fuel Rail with outer ORB-8 Thread, 6AN orb Fuel gauge port /cold start/pressure sensor.

The "dead" part of the deadhead is the non-moving fuel in the rail. Dead flow. If the fuel doesn't pass through the rail, in one end and out the other, then it's a deadhead system.

Just an observation. The pros and cons of return style versus deadheading is a popular topic. https://www.bing.com/search?q=return+style+versus+deadheading

Run them through their range of motion and see how they feel. I had one from a parts car that had been rear-ended and it must have damaged the half shaft. It would bind in its travel. I took it apart but did not see any visible damage. On the u-joints, the factory joints have caps in the Zerk fitting holes. Remove cap, install Zerk, squirt grease. Check the seals.

Aren't we comparing about 16 + 6, to 16? 22 to 16. I just pulled those numbers from memory, the more precise numbers are out there somewhere. . .

Leaner with the new injectors or with and without the resistors, same injectors? I think that you'd need to do a one-to-one comparison as far conditions to really know. Engine temperature, air temperature, etc. With and without resistors. Otherwise it's just conjecture.

I wonder if Rain-X might help. Just because of how it works. Leaving a fine film of water repellent molecules on the surface.

With no load from a pump do you think the eccentric will really have much effect? The weight of the sprocket is far greater than that tiny cylinder of steel, placed near the center of mass. I tend to leave well enough alone. Just a counterpoint...

I did. When I first put the system together I left the resistors in place as I tested it. Then I removed them and jumped the wires, just because. Then I think that I put them back just in case a future owner wanted to swap back to the original setup. I thought about the possibility of low current causing delayed opening times but decided that the EFI system is so crude that it probably didn't matter. It's a semi-batch fire system with no O2 sensor trimming. It just squirts a gob of fuel every rotation to all cylinders at the same time. But, with your AFR gauge you could easily run a simple test. Extra resistance won't hurt the ECU. Worst case you see some leaning at idle, where injector open duration is lowest and delayed opening time might have an impact.

I thought the same. That won't help the hot start problem, might even make it worse since the vapors can't be purged except through the injectors.

Just noticed that Volvo used it also. A spreadsheet image.

I've mentioned this before also, somewhere. You can take an old Bosch/VW/Porsche adjustable regulator and drill a hole through the center of the adjusting screw to add a vacuum reference hose. There was an old VW dune buggy article about it on the web. Notice the 001 number. Might be the first adjustable from Bosch as they got in to L-Jet. Still available. Spendy, unless eBay. It holds pressure too. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/0280160001.htm?pn=0-280-160-001-INT https://www.ebay.com/itm/115896285815?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JXCBKhvJSD2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here is a GM injector I ID'ed in the past as possible. I pulled the data from various sources and stuck it in a spreadsheet. I got a new computer and Microsoft is holding the spreadsheet functions hostage so all I can do is an image for now. A person really needs an adjustable regulator to get things dialed in. Since you have to lean things out. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1989,electra,3.8l+231cid+v6,1017414,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Here's a link to a table I had found a while ago. The original web page seems down but the table exists in various forms. 028-150-105 seems to be the standard Bosch original form replacement for the Nissan analog. In those early days they gave different part numbers based on hose length. I think that up to -112 are the same basic injector. It downloads a pdf file. Those 712's are high impedance. You'll want to remove the dropping resistors, I'd guess. Although I ran high impedance on my engine and they worked fine either way. Looks like you might be a hair rich with those. Good luck. https://alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13145.0;attach=28987 and https://www.google.com/search?q=stanweiss+injector