Zed Head

Take the FPR out of the picture. Connect the fuel rail supply line to the fuel return line, with the gauge plumbed in. Run the pump. If you don't have pressure then it's not the pump. It might be the FPR. Or a restriction in the rail. Bypass the FPR on the rail and run another test. Break the system down in to its parts and something will show up. Hopefully, eventually, as you're working on the individual sub-systems you'll have a realization about something that's not right. You've kind of gone past the original finding that swapping injector connectors had no affect. Which might have been a clue that you had some injectors not opening completely. Which might be supported by the varying flow rates at wide open. One or two might be gummed up. I have my old BWD injectors from OReilly Auto with 10,000 miles on them. Kind of waiting to see what your plan is. Did you contact the rebuild guys? Seems like they owe you something. Maybe they have a couple of injectors that they can give you to make up for the bad ones they said were reconditioned.

It might crank but it will not run the same unless you have the marks matched, where the red arrow is. That is your timing adjustment. That's why there's an R and an A on that plate. Retarded and Advanced.

Yes. The alternator works the same on the L28ET.

Just saw that in his profile. One other possibility is that the S(ense) wire burned off when the positive cable shorted. There are unknown wires attached there. Check S at the alternator plug for battery voltage. Check fusible links also. It will be fun. Get a meter.

Can't tell if you have an external regulator or internal. Or an ammeter or voltmeter. But, voltage should not jump to 16, ever. So, your regulator is shot, wherever it is. Don't know what you have in the car that beeps so hard to say on that. But whatever it is it probably wasn't designed for 16 volts. I'd fix that regulator first and see where you're at.

Do you know how much travel you have, and where the the travel is at ride height? Are you saying that the front suspension handles the speed bumps well but the back doesn't? Seems like you could do some simple inspection and comparison to understand your problem better. If I read your posts right it sounds like nothing has really changed. Might be time to stop and study.

Good that you're confirming. I learned something. I don't think that changing them from the top would have changed your alignment though. Slamming your head in to the roof would be from your shock damping, probably, not the springs.

Note where the lines are in the spot with the red arrow. That's what they are for. Remove the circled bolt. Pull the distributor out. The o-ring will be right there. Then remove the two bolts that hold the pedestal. The gasket will be there.

Mark the distributor here, remove the screw on the other side, pull the distributor straight up. Not the screw pointing upward, but the screw you can see from the top.

Here's a 280Z. So, I had it backward.

I might be wrong about his problem though. In that picture I expected to see the locking screw. Maybe the 240's have it on the other side, and adjustment marks on the side I see. Should be where the red arrow points.

However you look at it, he does have a new different problem that he should fix. If his distributor is not locked own, his timing is going to walk eventually. Beside that, this a proper, separate, thread. Nobody has to get involved if they don't want to. Just saying, it's his own hole, let him dig.

I'm not a carb guy and I think that somebody has already addressed it via the PCV valve comment, but there might be various openings in to that vacuum tube that allow air in after the carbs. Like EFI, you want all air that enters the intake manifolds/cylinder head during normal driving to pass through the carburetors, otherwise non-enriched air will make things lean. One way to look at things that allows you to see potential problems without knowing exactly where all the hoses go. If you can't get all of the hoses reconnected correctly, it might be worthwhile to block the PCV system off, and just run a vent on the valve cover. Until you get the right parts, like the air filter housing. Another thing to think about is that the carbs aren't designed to take the weight of that kludged together CAI system. If it's not hanging unsupported it might be attached to the body. When the engine moves it will be torqued. Could be creating vacuum leaks. Things would probably be a lot simpler if you got rid of it.

I have some fun for us all though. I'm not positive but I think that somebody has installed the plate on the bottom of the distributor backwards or sideways. Not even sure how the distributor is clamped down to avoid rotation when the engine is running. Might explain many past problems. Where is the screw?

He wants to replace the o-ring, which requires removing the adjustment screw. If people weren't working on their cars the site would probably die.

What are you hoping to do with this car? There's not going to be one or two simple things to do to get it running like a top. People can piece-meal you closer but a hose here, some carb oil there, is going to take you a long time. Are you going to keep the funky CAI and exhaust tube intake system or go back to the stock air filter? Just asking. It's good entertainment to do one small fix at a time, either way.

Probably a leaf blower at the ends of the intake tubes...

Is this thing some sort of balance tube? Show us where the air comes in.

I misread your first post. I thought you were replacing your electronic distributor with an old points distributor. Now I see that you're just removing the distributor, cleaning it, and putting it right back in. The same distributor. It should be very simple as long as you mark the adjustment setting before you remove it, so that you can set it to the same timing. Mark the mount and the distributor and match them up on reinstall. And yes, they do only install one way.

Download the FSM and you'll find pictures like this one.

I was being ironic. Looks like somebody hacked some stuff together, for some reason. Your valve cover hose would normally run to the air filter box, which is missing. Did they put some sort of "cold air intake" at the end of the intake tubes? Take more broad view pictures. We'll zoom in.

Does it run?

Too much information! Try to boil it down even more.

Woops, didn't read all of the posts. Might as well break it more though if it's already broke.