Pomorza

Hello. As its been roughly three months since my last oil change I'm planning on doing one here in the next week or two. I don't mean to start another "oil" thread but I'm wondering if I should use a heavier grade oil. At the moment I'm using Castrol GTX 10W40 with a Fram XG filter. I was debating going to 20W50 Valvoline VR1 oil as I've read on a number of threads that Z's like Zinc. What is your opinion on this change? I don't like synthetics as I change my oil way too often to be spending so much money on. (I do it every 3K or 3 months.. I guess that would be the old school way). I live in Tucson so the temp here rarely drops below 30 in the winter and in the summer it isn't unusual to have it hit 110+. Thanks Jan

OK here's a bit of a clarification. To begin with when I accelerate I can feel the entire transmission drop (literally) as I accelerate. By drop I mean as I accelerate the shifter falls down and away from my hand. This makes me believe that the transmission mount is bad and needs to be replaced. I've looked at it and it doesn't seem to be in good shape. I'm just wondering exactly how hard replacing a transmission mount is and where can one get one? As for the oil pan. I haven't looked at it since I bought it but I'm inclined to believe that torquing the bolts down wont fix the leaking as it seems fairly tight on there at the moment. As I don't have an engine lift would letting a shop do it be a better move on my part? Like to add a third question here. I've been having a pesky problem with my volt gauge being pegged out at engine speeds over idle. I had both the battery and the alternator tested twice (by different shops) and was told that they are fine. Do I have a bad gauge on my hands. At idle it sits at a nice 13.5 volts or so but the second I move at all the gauge just starts climbing, by 2k its at 16+ and just sits there. VR maybe. I did clean all the connections hoping this would help (the connections in the engine bay that is) but it didn't. Any ideas? Thanks Jan

Hello all Today I took the Z out for a short ride around town to get some things. Stopped at the local store to find that my car was low on coolant. Picked up a bottle of coolant and topped of the tank. While under there I noticed that the oil pan is leaking a fairly large amount of oil. Also noticed my tranny mount is going bad fairly quickly. (that was from driving) 1. Is there a way to replace the oil pan gasket without having to lift the engine or drop the cross member? 2. Has anyone replace a tranny mount that have pictures. I've been under the car I just need advise on where to start. Jan

Water Pump Adventure So this Saturday morning I decided hell I'm going to put the new pump in. Seems easy as pie should "take like an hour or two." Drain the fluid out into a bucket, (as its a week old so I reused it) pulled the shroud off took the fan off and started with the pump. To my amazement there were only FOUR bolts holding it on. "Hmm where did the fifth bolt go?" Well the PO of this car obviously missed that "replace the bolts when replacing pump" part of the instructions as the fifth bolt (below the dizzy) was broken at the head. GREAT! So called my friend's dad over (6'8" 300lb gentleman) who convinced the bolt to come out of the hole (using a vise grips). Got the old bolt out and put pump in. Works great, no more noise no more fluid coming out of everywhere. Did notice one thing though. The weep hole on the new pump is on the top. Not sure if this is some new design but its odd. (I'm positive the pump is on right...there really is only one way to put it on really). Anyone ever seen these? Secondly the fan clutch is...well a bit hard to turn. I took it off and clean with brake cleaner but I could not for the life of me find the bolts that hold it together. (as I've read you can replace the fluid in there and it work better). Sorry I didn't take any pictures as the whole "broken bolt" kind of took up most of my time. There was a lot of sludge on the engine which I clean a bit off with some brake cleaner. So the moral of this whole "adventure" is who ever Murphy was needs to get some award for his laws...as they seem to always get obeyed. (Murphy's Laws that is) Will have pictures of the skid plate up when I get to it. Jan

I'm sorry but that is such a waste of a beautiful car. Why would you do that? I understand it is someone's dream to build a car like that but really, it looks horrible. I almost cried. Jan

Skid Plate? I almost forgot that's what I started with on this project. Went from skid plate r&r to fixing the cooling system in one step. I'm thinking of getting a small sand plaster to do the project. At the moment I have about quarter of it down to metal. Not a bad start but really slow going. Thanks Jan

Water pump Hello all. This Wednesday my new water pump came in along with new bolts. Posted are pictures of the parts. I'm a bit new to Z's but do the water pump bolts look right. They're a bit...huge to me so please let me know. Jan

Do have a question for you all. I ordered the pump and bolts and its on its way. Upon installation is an RTV required on the pump. I haven't yet looked at the FSM or other books about the car but I'm wondering what you guys have done. From what it looks like my pump has a crap ton of red RTV holding it on the block. Not sure if there is even a gasket there. Advise is appreciated. Jan

Update This past weekend I replaced my radiator. This afternoon I come to find there is a whining sound coming from the engine area. Upon further inspection I come to find there is coolant leaking from the water pump. Not very much at a time but dripping quite a bit. I turned off the car, depressurized the coolant system. I ordered a water pump from MSA and hope to have it in by this weekend. I will post some pictures of the removal and reinstall of the pump. Jan

Thanks guys. I ordered a pump and the studs (the bolts that hold it on) from MSA. Cost me roughly $45 with the rebate I have to my door. It comes with the pump, gasket, and the fan studs. If anyone has used the pumps MSA sells please let me know how it worked out. Thanks Jan

I leaning on ordering the pump from MSA as they also sell the studs that hold it on. I'm pretty sure mine is pour out of the weep hole as it pours on the engine block. I haven't really taken a look at it but I'm positive its from the pump. Thanks for the help Jan

Hello all So this past weekend I pulled the old radiator and hoses. I took the car for a ride today only to hear a loud whining noise coming when accelerating. I come to my house to find radiator fluid dripping from the front of the engine...from the water pump. So I'm guessing a new water pump is in order....:mad: Two questions. One. Does everything on Z's happen in the cascading manner in which things break in bunches that are related (i.e thermostat, then radiator and now the blasted water pump.) Secondly. What are you guys recommendation on water pumps. Is autozone ok or should I use MSA? Any advise would be welcome. Jan

Well I drove it today with no white smoke at all. I'm inclined to believe it was just condensation in the tailpipe as there is no sign of it now. As for the oil. It is fairly bitter. I only had a finger tip of it so its not like I'm chugging Castrol or anything. Thanks for the advise Jan

Hello guys So Friday afternoon I replaced my old broken radiator with a brand new one. Saturday morning I finished up the job by replacing the radiator cap with a new one, replacing the hoses and filling the car up with some fluid. I started the car up to let the fluid circulate and get the air out and I find that I have a very faint amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. When I rev it gets worse and when I rev and release the throttle it puffs it out. So being mechanically I turn the car off after it heats up and check the oil. Its oil, nice oil color and tastes like oil (yes I tasted it to verify there was no coolant). Checked under that cap, nothing just oil. You can clearly see the cam lobe, covered in a thin film of oil. So I restart the car and head towards the rear and smell the smoke...nothing. Smells like regular exhaust with a hint of gasoline. Later on that night I decided to take the car for a ride with a friend of mine. Started the car, had some smoke. (this was right after I finished with the radiator). Drove to my friends house (roughly 2.5 miles) and checked everything there. Revved the car to 2k, no smoke. Revved to 3k no smoke let it sit and idle no smoke. Drove later that night, car drives fine, no problems. For reference my car sat for a week and a half in the parking space outside my house. The temperature during this time varied from 50-95 degrees. Does anyone have any ideas? Jan

Update So this afternoon I put in the new radiator. I also took the time to clean the fan shroud and paint it flat black. I think it looks really nice. All I have to do is put on the hoses, the new cap and fill it up with some fluid and I'll be done. Here are some pictures enjoy.

Oh that makes perfect sense now. I thought that the transmission had an internal cooler and that the coolant would flow through the radiator to the cooler and than back to the radiator. (works this way in my old jeep). So as far as I am concerned the two little connections on the bottom of the radiator don't do anything at all for me? Jan

Really? I would think fluid would come out of there if I drive with a manual and there's nothing hooked up. Can you explain why?

Hello guys About a week ago my radiator developed a leak. So I ended up calling up a radiator shop and ordering a radiator. They told me it was an exact replica of what I had. It came in today and I find two things different. 1. The radiator has the drain plug in the center not on the driver's side like advertised. 2. It has two outlets for the automatic transmission that came with other Z. (mine is a manual). To my amazement the radiator I bought is roughly ten pounds lighter than the one I have. It is the same size and everything. I'm wondering a number of things. Is it possible to just plug the transmission lines and stick the car in there or should I take it to a radiator shop and have it trimmed off? Secondly will the drain plug in the center affect the skid plate. What I mean is can I put the radiator in and then the skid plate with no problem? Thanks for the help Jan

That looks very nice. I'm wondering one thing here. Is it necessary to remove the diffy cover when you remove the bar. I have literally no bushing(s) really left there and I was planning on doing that same job. I rather not have to drain the brand new Red Line gear oil I poured in there. If I have to then by all means sure but I rather not have to. Thanks Jan

Update Ordered a new radiator that should get here by Thursday. Its an OE radiator as I couldn't fork over the 400 for the aluminum ones I found. Hopefully it is the proper one..supposedly it is from a dealership. I did remove the condenser from the car so now there is nothing blocking the radiator at all once I get it in. Will post pictures of the reinstall this weekend, should be interesting now. I am wondering something though. Are all water outlets on Z motors the same? MSA sells a new one for a 240z but non for a 280z? DeesZ I may take you up on that offer. Mine isn't bad but as you can see from the picture its not in great condition. Jan

Update Hey guys. This weekend I pulled my radiator as I had a nasty leak from someplace. Took it to a shop and found the an entire tube (or whatever those are called that run up and down) is cracked. The radiator itself looks like it has been repaired numerous times as there are many areas where lead is present. So I've decided to opt for a new one. Not sure if I'm going to get a new OE on or an aluminum one. Anyhow in the process I come to find that the lower radiator is also leaking. I'm not sure if its from the hose or the area where the hose is attached to. Can someone please tell me what that is called and if the gasket for it is easily found. (picture is included.). Its located above the alternator.

Part I. Skid Plate Restoration Pulled the plate off earlier today. First thing was to give it a nice bath in some Grease Lightning to remove the nearly 34 years of crud on it. After that I used some steel wool to get any other stubborn stains and rust spots out. Took it into my little shop I have where I live and started to sand it using 50 grit sand paper. Did it for about an hour before it became too hot to work. Will update more as I make progress. Hope to have it done before the month is up.

Hello all So I have finally decided to begin the slow restoration of my Z. The car is roughly 80% restored when I bought her back in August. As stated above this is a "slow" restoration. I'm doing everything I can myself and anything I can't do I'll at least attempt. Its going to take a while is the whole point really. I'm starting with the skid plate on my Z. Taking it off, sanding it down to bare metal, straightening and painting a nice gray color. Before I do that here's a few pics of my 1976 280z.

I am actually going to be there over from Dec 21. through the 11th of Jan so I will try to come by and take a look. I'll talk to you when the time grows closer. Thanks Jan

This is the deal. I bought the car in August. As regular service I took off the windshield wiper arms took off the metal piece over the motors and cleaned the connection there. While the arms were on the ground my brother drove over one of them with his jeep and thus ruined it as it bent. When I tried to fix it I ended up just breaking it. What I need is the actual arm. The part that attaches to the motor and hold the wiper in place on the window. (I can't make this any more specific as I don't know what esle to put.) I am wondering on thing. A friend of mine has a 280zx (1980) that he is paring out. (in Florida) Will an arm from that car work or is it to long? Thanks Jan