Pomorza

Gotcha thanks

Hello all So this past weekend I was working on the Z once again putting the washer reservoir back in and running. In the process I started reading things that were written on intake manifold. Come to find that it says N42 on it. Confused I walk to the other end of the car and find that the cylinder head is an N47. So I'm wondering one thing. I'm new to Z's and have done some research but isn't the head and manifold supposed to have the same ID on them or can you mix and match them? Thanks Jan

Hey this is a great idea. I have a set of after market h-4 headlight assemblies that I have been try to get out of my closet. If anyone is interest let me know. The housing has a small blue light inserted on the bottom...I guess its for shows or something. Jan

Thanks everyone. I finally got the motor all wired up with some connectors that can be removed if needed. Pressed the button to find that most of the tubing that moves the water to the spray nozzles is fairly gone. Did get the driver's side to work which is a plus. Thanks for all the help Jan

Hello guys. I did download the color diagram, great help. After making sure using the diagram that this was indeed the proper connector I pulled out my multimeter. With it connected it reads 0.04V when cold and 11.45 when the spray button is pressed. So this IS the connector. Could I just cut the connector off and splice the two wires together or is that not a good idea? Anyone have this problem before with the wrong connectors being there? Jan

As a matter of fact I'm going to a pick n pull place tomorrow. There was a 1978 280z 2+2 there about a weeks ago when I last went. I'm hoping it is still there. Does anyone need any parts? When I was there most of the drive train was gone but there were still some odds and ends on it. Let me know Jan

A number of things you can get at local parts stores. Most belts, hoses and other "very often used" parts can be found at parts stores. But if you need specific parts the sites above are fairly good. What exactly are you looking for? It is indeed hard to find some uncommon parts even in the above sites but if you know the right people to talk to (such as members on this very site) parts can be found. And please don't fear asking about anything. I'm one of those people, that no matter how often it has been discussed I will happily tell you where to find what your looking for. I don't like the whole "its been discussed millions of times" thing. Yes it has been asked millions of times and yes we've answered it hundreds of times but it won't hurt writing it down again. (or at least that's my point of view). I rather that you ask it then have to sit there for weeks trying to figure out what goes where and why something isn't working. Just ask. Jan

I've actually got a number of newer Z's to acknowledge my 280z. It most likely has to do with age. All the people the have acknowledged me were older individuals, and most likely own or have owned z's in the past. I think a lot of it has to do with age. I use to drive a jeep and there is the jeep wave. (I can go into detail but it would take up to much space.) Anyhow only a few individuals knew and/or acknowledged the wave. Young people in my opinion (I'm 22 so I would have an idea I guess) just don't respect or know the history of the car they drive. All they care is that they have 250 hps under the hood and can blow my little Z out of the water. Ive met people that drive 350z's that didn't know what the history of the Z car was. They thought my car was some kit car I built on the side. (no joke). Jan

I'm going to try to get the car in the air this weekend and see if the diffy has oil. I'm positive I pour enough in (I poured until it came out of the fill plug) and unless I have a mysterious leak I don't see it going anyplace. I took it for a fairly length drive today (30 miles or so) and the sound only seems to occur upon acceleration from a stop. Say up to about 5 mph. After that the sound disappears and doesn't return until I again come to stand still and have to accelerate again. I've done some research online and for what I'm seeing it could possibly be a u-joint. I know that these don't "squeak" but some people have said that it is possible. I just don't see the diffy just randomly starting to squeak. Wouldn't it also make some kind of noise at higher speeds. (or all speeds at that). I'm not doubting your guys knowledge but could a diffy go bad in 300 miles? I mean it wasn't making any sounds when I bought the car in August. I've only driven maybe a 1k or less with the car. And only 300 with the new Redline 75W90 I poured in to the rear end. Sorry about the length but your advise is very useful Jan

Thanks guys for the help. Could a brake related noise be load related? The noise never occurs when I release the gas pedal or press in the clutch. It really annoys me right now. Thanks Jan

Ok here is a bit of an update. This past weekend I was changing the oil in my Z. While doing that I lifted the rear of the Z up and rotated both wheels very slowly. The right rear drum brake is rubbing quite a bit. The right one not as much. Would sticking breaks make a solid squeaking noise? Could it be one of the half-shaft u joints dying? Thanks Jan

I would do what Z Tyler Z recommends. First off make sure that the pressure is good at the rail. Secondly make sure that you are indeed getting the fuel from the rail to the pistons (make sure the injectors work). Let us know what you find. Jan

Mine is plainly called Z. Jan

Fuel pressure regulator maybe. I'm almost positive that you have one. If you have pressure to the rail there should be fuel entering the cylinders unless the injectors aren't working. So I would check that the injectors all work. Did you change out the fuel? 10 year old gasoline isn't very good to run on. Hope that helps Jan

Hello all Ever since I bought my Z in August I've had issues with my volt gauge. When the car is off it shows ~12 volts. When I start the car the gauge will hover around 13 but the second I rev the engine it will max out. I had two (2) independent shops test my electrical system and both said that its the gauge. So this past weekend I went to a junkyard and yanked a volt/fuel gauge out of a 77 280z 2+2 and put it in. The volt gauge worked great but the fuel gauge didn't :mad:. So I ended up placing the old one back in the car. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong. I inspected the volt gauge when I pulled it from my car and everything seemed ok. Any ideas? Jan

Hello all I need both wheel cylinders for my rear drums. I was at MSA and found that there are a number a wheel cylinders that they sell. Is there a difference between the 75-76 280z wheel cylinder and 77-78 ones? There is a huge difference in price and I would like to know before I buy. Thanks Jan

Hello all Can someone help me. My washer fluid motor was unplugged when I bought the car. I took it out and could not for the life of me find the other connection for it. Mine looks like the picture below and the only connector in the area looks exactly like it. Can anyone post the wires that are there please. Thanks Jan

Hey guys Took my car to the mechanic today. Found out that both (yes both) of my rear drums brake cylinders are leaking and have contaminated the brakes themselves. Would that explain the sqeaking noise? I would think it would but I've never had a car with drums before so please advise. Jan

Skid plate Work Hello all This past weekend I finished up the skid plate on my car. Ended up painting it a nice flat black color. Sprayed it with two coats of flat black. May put down one more coat before I reinstall it. Next project on the list is the interior. Plan on getting the clock working and replacing the volt/fuel gauge. I picked up the two gauges at the local u pull yard in Tucson. Was amazed that they were still there. Jan

Dave I took your advise, kind of and took the car for a short drive and did some investigating. This is what I found. The squeek noise I'm talking about is coming from the rear of the car (behind my head when I'm driving) and occurs at slow speeds. Once I reach about 10 to 15 mph the sound "goes away" but there is a sound of sorts still there. (What I mean is the loud squeek goes away and is replaced by another sound due to high revolutions). The noise does not occur (NOT) in reverse. I drove nearly 100 yards in reverse at all speeds and not a single sound. When I press the clutch pedal the sound goes away. So I'm leaning on saying that it is load related. (as with load its there but without its not). Here are things to keep in mind. My u-joints are toast (according to my mechanic) and the transmission mount is in pretty bad shape last time I looked at it. Thanks Jan

Whoa Dave. There was no ill wishes in those remarks. I didn't mean for it to sound smartassish* if it did. I'm sorry. I'm just a bit confused on how low fluid could cause a squeeking sound. I'll look into the low fluid later this weekend. Jan

lack of oil? Really I poured in gear oil until it started pouring out of the pour hole. Maybe I need to add more?

Hello all I'm in need of some help with my 1976 280z. I went for a fairly long drive today (~25miles or so) to the local u-pull it junkyard and the store to pick up groceries. When I got in my car all was find but when I put it in gear and started backing up I get a fairly loud squeeking noise that sounds like it is coming from the rear. It grows louder and faster with the speed of the car. As the car nears 50 the rear begins to "roar" is the best way to put it. My u-joints are not in very good shape at all so could it be them? Half-shafts? Advise is welcome Thanks Jan

For what I remember black smoke means that your running rich. Start with the basics. Check the fuel pressure and check the plugs, check the oil. (see if it smells of fuel). Check that your wired the coil right. Hope that helps Jan

Thanks guys for all your help. I did get a new radiator OE replacement and removed the condenser from in front of it. The car runs nice and cool. Jan