emccallum

When you say flaky, do you mean bad connections or did you have something swapped? So glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. PM me if you need any extra switches to test things. I should have some stuff laying around that may still work 🙂

Undo parts of the linkage to see if you can identify where the sticky part is happening.

Jackpot! I knew there was a zcar antenna around somewhere. I went out to the shop and gave a look around. I thought I had previously gone through all the boxes. For some reason, I missed it. In the bottom of a box was this electric antenna wrapped in a bag. I am pretty certain it came out of my Dads 77 280 right after he bought it. He was into CB radios and bought an antenna that would work with a radio and a CB. The original antenna went into storage. About 30 years ago my mom said I am throwing out all this old car stuff, so come get what you want. I did. The 280 antenna looks to be very similar to the 240. The tip unscrews and the mounting hardware is mint. I fell like I won the lottery. The switch to the right looks to be an early 240. The switch that was attached to the antenna looks to be factory, but I just dont know the 280's very well.

The finished parts shelves are slowly filling up. Note the electric antenna with the pointy tip! That was a bitch to get back working. The plastic cable had come loose from the mast. I heated up the mast and was able to join them back. Not to mention all the crud and corrosion inside. The next to top section has a bend, so at full up it looks like a commercial for Peyronies disease! But it does go up and down, very smoothly. I need to source some new exterior hardware for the antenna. Wish I could find a new mast. I guess I could buy a NOS one on ebay for 4k! Crazy.

I found a new heater control valve on ebay for about $80. It was oem. Now I have to decide if I want to spend the bucks for braided hoses!

The body is on hold waiting for some replacement metal, so I decided to tackle the heater box and other small stuff.. It was in rough shape. I think it was go to party place for the mice. I had to remake one of the flaps, create a new spring, and get rid of a lot of rust. I got lucky and had some products left over from past restorations that I could use. Hood insulation from a BMW worked great for the foam around the heater core and headliner material from an FJ40 for the flaps. The older I get the less trips to the store I have to make.

Making progress!

I am not 100% positive but very, very sure the first picture is the bolt that holds the ground in the right rear corner of the car. The second picture is the wire harness that goes from the right rear taillight area to the fuel sender unit. It has the ground wire.

I have some rental properties and barely raised the rent over the last couple of years. Only enough to cover the increased insurance cost. If I have tenants that have been there a long time and dont give me any problems, I want them to stay! I hate getting new tenants and turning over an apartment.

I have been ordering a ton of stuff lately for my restoration, and shipping is just crazy. At first it really got to me, now its just a new normal. I have to justify it mentally by looking at a few of the recent BAT 240 sales 🙂 I have actually found some things cheaper on Ebay that have free shipping. I do a lot more price shopping and bulk ordering.

Thanks, I have a car dolly that gets the car up pretty high and allows me to roll the tub around. I have a two post lift in the shop if I really need it up in the air. I just dont have the room for a rotisserie. I am maxed out on space and I have a car stored at my sons house, that is overstaying its welcome :). I have been researching the undercoating. From reading and what I found on my car, I am going to use a "undercoating" underneath, then spray body color over it.

Picked up my vapor honing blast box today. Had some time to try out a few parts. Not too bad. I think I am going to like it. I have made a good bit of progress over the last few weeks. I will post up some pictures tomorrow.

I must have bought the last ones. They were actually $2.65. MOOG EV164. Sorry.

FWIW, I just found a closeout on Rock auto. Moog (made in Japan) inner tie rods for $13 each with boots! I also got two sets of outer tie rod ends, as I am pretty certain that the inners will have the same threads on both sides. Looks like I am going to rebuild route.

Thanks, I found the video. I will price check the parts, the inner tie rods were pretty pricey.

I am restoring a 72 240 and I want to rebuild the steering rack.. Boots are torn, grease and gunk all over it, play, etc. I noticed I can get a rebuilt rack from a big box store for about $550. Seal kit plus tie rods looks to be around 450 to 500 and I would have to rebuild it. Wondering if anyone has had any experience with a Cardone rebuilt rack? I would check it to make sure it is the same ratio. Thanks.

Have you checked all the grounds? Among others, I am pretty sure there is a ground under the car in the area of the right tail light. I have found loose grounds will make for some weird electrical issues.

here is another picture I found searching the net.

Not sure this will help, as I may be in your situation later on! I thought I took pictures of my steering column but I couldnt find them. I did put them together on the bench. There is a black wire that connects the headlight switch to the blinker switch. I cant tell if you have that one connected.

Current condition picture. New roof is welded in and I have been leading in the corners. I am removing the dash and going to send it off to Just Dashes for repair. I am going to remove all the suspension and sandblast the tub. I am debating on getting a rotisserie or a chasis dolly. I just cant decide how I want to treat the underside of the car. It is in nice condition and could probably be pressure washed and undercoated. I will make that decision later when the car is completely stripped. A little work here a little work there. Kind of jumping around scratching my chin.

Looking good, I cant wait to get to assembly. For painted fasteners, I go back with a disposable micro brush (amazon) and dot the bolts with some paint. I just finished restoring a 1930 model A pick up and almost every screw was painted body color and scratched during assembly. Not to mention that every screw was a flathead! It was like assembling Christmas toys over and over.

The car cleaned up nice! Be careful, the x may want it back now 🙂 I think my vin is 7400's or so. I was thinking of going back Brown with black interior, except from what I can find, that wasn't ever offered. I want to keep it as a stock color combo. Leaning towards silver or white.

Yes!

I picked up a roof down in Ga at Resurrected classics. Very nice guys there. I ended up picking up several other things that I needed. They make some nice products. It was great seeing the younger generation passionate about old z's. Happy to support them. Cutting the roof skins off wasnt quite as easy as I had read it was. Each corner was welded and soldered in place. It took me a while to figure out the best approach. I got some spot weld drill bits and a seam buster. Pretty pleased with it so far and it looks like it will go back together ok. This is going to be a long project! I dropped of the motor at the machine shop today. Some pictures of the new roof test fit:

Doesnt seem like many choices and nothing is in stock anywhere. Went with MSA as they had the best price with shipping. I am not in a hurry as I have plenty of work to do until I get to the "put it back together" STAGE.