derk

My 2002 PT has been bulletproof... solid as hell. My 1999 Jetta fell apart--literally--at 50K. For the money, $19K loaded with leather, the PT was a great value. Slow as snot, though. If you are looking for "ooomph" wait for turbo PT this fall.

Nope, using a plain old Craftsman wrench. Will try to find a line wrench at the store. Thanks a ton for the advice. May get new lines, too. (GRIN)

I can't loosen the metal hoses connected to the bottom of the old master cyl. I have wasted a bottle of WD-40 and most of the skin on my hands trying. Rather not use a torch (don't ask) but any other thoughts?

Early generation cell phones had power supply often under the seat with the handset dash mounted. If it is that there would be a coax antennal connection to the box.

A decade or so in storage and I can turn her around by hand...that's a nice thing. (Once I forgot she was in gear :stupid: ) Got the oil changed, the oil filter changed and the radiator drained. I think I forgot the gasket on the radiator plug so I guess I am going back to do that again. (Found it in the pan.) Next on the list is the master cylinder, because I have a shiny new one. Also I need to drop the gas tank. Will look thru the hints for that. Any hoses I must replace, you think? What do you do with old gas ? :classic: What are the odds the gas line is okay...should I replace anyway after 14 years in storage? Got a new fuel filter, natch, but think I need some way to blow the old fuel from tank to filter or would it have evaporated by now? Heard rumor of a second fuel filter...will haul out the Chilton's. Still checking for radiator place willing to steam clean the tank and line it with that stuff. :surprised Will get the wheels off and start on looking at the brakes next. Think the lines are shot? Cylinder is bone dry. Tie rods look shot too. sigh.

Well done. An inspiration!

Breaker bar from the top or bottom? Not sure I have room from the top?

I admit it. I am slowly coming up to speed on my 71 240, which has been parked for 14 years or so. Anyway, I have pulled the spark plugs and disconnected the coil. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Let sit for a week. Now want to rotate engine by hand to see if it has seized. My spitfire has a bolt on the front of the crank. How do I rotate the Z engine by hand? The fan obviously spins freely. Also if I can rotate it, I presume counterclockwise as looking at the front of the engine is the way to go? Sorry I am a dufus.

Anyone know best deal on POR-15? Anyone know any hints?

ooops

ooops

As the earlier thread pointed out, get the stickers translated at your local college before you stick them on your car. You never know what they really say

...your car is old enough to not be interested in drag racing at stop lights?:classic:

Rescue that baby!

Anyone used one of those Monza kits? Money is an object here. Looking for good not great. Thanks

Me too. If I can get one I can pay you and digitize it for download by others.

Mine is HS30-41000. is that a good thing?

Interesting... got a pic of it? Never been to Indy show...worth the 4 hour drive one way for me? Lots of parts vendors, or???

Close... I have a Triumph Spitfire that I restored from frame up. Lovely... breaks down a lot, as per usual British specs. The joke: Why do the British drink warm beer? Because they have Lucas refrigerators. Had a 1986 Porsche 944 but traded it when we adopted four little kids at once. Traded it on a Dodge Ram 15 passenger van...the salesman said "this is the worst trade in automotive history." :stupid:

Motor Trend TV (on Speed channel and some others) is showing review of the 350Z that includes about 5 min profile of the 240, 260 and 280... Funny info... said after introduction in 1970 the demand for Zs was so high that Blue Book value for one year old Z in 1971 was $500 more than retail for a new one. How bad were dealers gouging back then? I remember paying $1000 over list for a Prelude during the Honda gold rush in the 80s because you had to practically sleep with a Honda dealer to get a car. (I waited six months, too)

My hand tools are all Craftsman and I have never doubted paying a little more for that feeling of strength. However, I once replaced a rear seal on a VW bug on the side of the road using an $8 jack and a $13 socket set from a convenience store. (grin) The dollies are not going to be used a lot but I need them now and the price was right. Rick's look great for more serious mechanics, that is for sure.

Found my local Harbor Freight store. Agreed most tools in there look like junk but these car dollies for $39 / pair are amazing. The casters alone are $17 each at Home Depot so not sure how they are doing it other than cheap Chinese labor. Anyway they are very heavy duty, 4 inch steel wheels and fine for this shadetree mechanic. Building my own would have cost $20 than these (four ) and these are solid steel. I recommend them.

I am in southern Indiana. Not the hotbed of car restoration. I built a Triumph Spitfire from a box of parts but it took me 4 years of an hour here and an hour there. I want to get the rust stopped on the surface so I think I will attack it a section at a time and prime it with spray cans just to get it stopped...then sand the whole car when I can get to it and have a real body shop prime and paint it. Long way away though.

Truth is, no "local restoration businesses" anywhere near here. Will keep checking as presume the gas inside that tank has killed it. Maybe a new one if not too much $$$ All my vacuum lines are shot I think. Almost all the rubber hoses are shot. Tell me more about the ignition? Does anyone sell a complete kit? Thanks!

Honestly? I have been working. I also have 8 kids , 7 under age 10 so my time is limited. I have been working to clear space in the garage to hold this guy. Plan to move it indoors this weekend and try to turn the engine by hand. Have plugs out and Marvel in. also searching for parts for initial launch.... I feel way overwhelmed. Not sure the right order to do things. I think: Drop tank, drain gas, get tank cleaned (where?) and check fuel lines. New filters oil change drain and check radiator new plugs new coil new points, etc new plug wires... Main question is body...as I work on it an hour at a time, do I fix a spot, primer it knowing that at some point I will resand the whole thing and reprimer? I have lots of rust spots