mbarjbar

Has anyone serviced the the two driveshaft sliding sections? Is it difficult? Can it be done without taking off the u-joint? My u-joints seem fine but the in and out motion seems stiff. The manual says to service every 50,000 miles. Mike

That was going to be my fix, too. Wasn't sure if it would cause some noise. I hope someone has some info on this type of old bushing and shell. I don't think they had ever been replaced. Mike

I am rebuilding the rear suspension and plan to use urethane bushings. On the mustache bar I expected to see a one-piece shell after removing the rubber. Instead, the bushing had a two piece rubber and two piece outer shell. Is this normal? One edge rolls over on the bar, the other roll in. The new bushing will not fit in the rolled in end. Help, see pics. My Z in a 1970. Mike

Well, I got it off. Yes, I had cut the peened part of the nut off. The strut is off the car. I put it in a vise and went at it. My impact was not working, I think because I was using a 12 point socket. The thing was swimming in PB blaster. In the end, I bought a 6 point impact socket, two 3 foot iron pipes I used as a 'T' with the sliding 1/2 inch driver. I pushed on one end, a friend pulled on the other. She move about a 1/4 inch and I finished with my impact wrench. Now on to the other one. Mike

The rear axle nut on my 1970 is kicking my arse! Is dynamite a workable solution to get this damn thing off? Mike

Mine is HLS30-04095, engine L24-6677, made in May of '70. Original color is 907, Racing Green, currently white. Car is drivable, registered, and in restoration. Original 907 color is coming back, but the butterscotch interior will succumb to black. Mike

Well, several months ago, I ordered ball joints from Beck/Arnley. They are the wrong size for my 5/70 240Z. Guess I'll ordered from the other site. Anyone need ball joints? Cheap. Mike

Scott, It would be great to document, with photos, your change to original rubber. Was I correct in assuming the original bushing has the metal shell surrounding the rubber? If true, you will have to remove the old shell. Mike

So the original bushings have the metal 'shell' around the outside of the rubber. They are then pressed in. Apparently, the shells don't come out easily, so it is easier to reuse them. Probably not a good idea to be too rough on the inner surface. Thanks, Mike

The instruction sheet for my polyurethane bushings, for the mustache bar, says to reuse the original shell. What is the shell? Is this part of the original bushing? Thanks, Mike

Hi, I will be installing a Tokiko spring kit with Lumina adjustable shocks. This will lower the car. Is it necessary to have adjustable control arm bushings on a lowered Z? I have a polyurethane bushing kit for the whole car. Thanks, Mike

Hi guys, I am revisiting this subject because I was told by a seller of Z parts, that I will need adjustable bushings for the rear suspension if I lower the car with the Tokiko set up. I have heard about the control arm spacer for the front, but had not heard of needing adjustable bushings for camber in the rear, if the car is lowered. Did anyone with the Tokiko's have to do this? Mike

Keith, There is a plate on the compressor, under a lot of crud, that I will clean to read. Looks like a set of numbers. I'll let you know what the numbers are tomorrow. Nothing on the compressor drive. Mike

How can I tell if my car has factory A/C or some aftermarket system? Car is a 1970 Z. Looks like a York compressor, positioned lower left under the distributor. There is a small dial for the A/C attached to the bottom of the dash to the right of the steering column. Does not work at present. Thanks, Mike

If there had been a big thumbs down, I could have returned the kit. I'm relieved that I seemed to have made a good choice. Thanks.

Thanks, that confirms what I thought.

Anybody out there?????

Just bought a Tokico kit. Springs lower the car 1 inch and has Lumina adjustable shocks. Any opinions or experience with this combo in an early (70) 240Z? Mike

Maybe a DQ.... My 1970 with 4speed has which rearend, R180 or R200? Mike

Are the dashboard wiring harnesses in a '71 interchangeable with a '70? Any major issues? Thanks, Mike

Great thread, but I wonder about the combination of Polyurethane or rubber and various springs and shocks. What is the best combination? Are you all using polyurethane? I hear so many conflicting comments about how hard they make the car ride. I want a nice riding cruiser that won't wallow around. Any suggestion on bushing material, along with what has already been commented on? Mike 1970 #4095

New sending unit in the tank and the gauge reads 1/2 when empty. Guess how I know? Gauge is original and this was the first it has had to register in 14 years. Mike

Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Mike

I have a 1970 Z, number 4095. Appears the PDO did some creative re-wiring so I have a few questions. First, with the ignition off, no key in ignition; if I turn the headlights on, shouldn't the tail lights come on also? They don't. Next, when I step on the brake peddle while driving, the right turn signal indicator on the dash lights up..... Any thoughts? Mike

Good 4 speed tranny in a 1970 Z (4095), ran without oil. After 40 miles, she seized. Can it be rebuilt or is it history. Before the 'incident', it shifted smoothly, synchros were strong, all was well. Any thoughts? Mike