IdahoKidd

Hmmmmm, I am betting you still have the problem and it will resurface shortly.

I am guessing the old original (to me) pipes are 1 3/4 then. I know they seemed pretty small. As for the back pressure, I had always been under the belief that it kept from burning up the valves. Never any first hand experience that I can think of I guess. Having had some 40+ cars, I've never lost a motor and have abused a few.

I can't find the diameter of the twice pipes. Even on the MSA site that isn't listed. I am going to get exhaust work done shortly for "Manny" (L28, 6 into 2 header) and am running dual pipes. Any reason to not use 2 1/2 pipe all the way back? My old set of twice pipes were quite small, less than 2 inch I think even. Backpressure issues? Thanks! Leonard

Why isn't the Z on the driveway????

Yes I think it is a grounding problem. Try a jump wire from the sending unit (metal housing part) to the frame and see if that doesn't make the gauge work. If so, then figure out if there is a problem with the ground wire (bad connection, broken, etc.)

I'd bet it is a bad ground. I'd bet a lot. Could also be a headlight issue on its own, but I am betting the ground wire is bad/loose.

Hello. I see this is your first post so welcome aboard! You say you have used the search, that is a great start. How long has this been a problem? From first time out after restoration or did it work for a while? Have you changed the fuel filter? Did you clean out the tank during the restoration? These cars build a lot of gunk in the tank. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge so that you can see if you loose pressure during the fail? Does it fail faster during WOT? Obviously I am thinking fuel supply, plugged line, trash in the tank, even bad fuel pressure regulator. Member Fastwoman will likely find this thread and can offer advice on searching for connections. Lots of corrosion issues with the Z's in the wiring. Give a little more of the symptoms, how they come on, how they go away (you say it recovers, does it stay recovered or fail again in 5 minutes?), some history of what you may have already done (how long was it apart, what all did you take apart, etc) When you do find the solution, be sure to post it so the next guy searching can find a possible solution to his problem.

How much? Unless you need a specific part, there is almost nothing that will switch over. Engine block, brake rotors, transmission is about it off the top of my head. Hood I suppose but it has the vents. Do you have the room to store it? Will it be an eyesore? Will the wife and neihbors complain. Parting and selling it isn't cost effective either. I've done this before and found that the only "parts" car is one that is the same as the one you already have unless you have a specific desire for a feature from the parts car (fuel injection, etc). I put a heavy emphasis on NO but it is my opinion.

Harold, in his late 80's, is sitting in the hall at the old folks home in his wheel chair, when Martha, also in her 80's, jumps out of her room wearing her nightgown over her shoulders like a superhero costume. Landing in front of Harold, she smiles and procloaims "Soooper *****!" Harold looks her over and asks, "what's the soup?"

Don't forget "rare" and "easy fixer"

Great video of YORGO at work!

I'd have to think there is little chance enough of the Shokatan's becoming so popular they are mundane. For one, they are over the top ugly! Workmeisters look nice, too expensive for me however. The Rota Grid V looks like it belongs on a pickup. There is a Z here in town with the original Retro 4 style wheels. YUK! Enki's look good most of the time, but never in black. Can't think of a single wheel that looks good in black. The classic 8 look, the panasports, the rewinds, these look like they belong on the Z's! And of course the slotted mags, but I don't recall seeing a set of 15's? anyone? Just my opininon with 8 years in the retail tire market (although in the early-mid 80's)

Great poster! Pretty much says it all. Was just curious

While I haven't any interest in doing the lambo door thing to my Z, I am wondering if anyone else has actually done it and with what results? The cool factor is okay, but it would seem to me it would be a colossal PITA to operate, seal, and so on.

Will the top end increase with an overdrive transmission, not noticeably. It will run lower rpms at the same speed, but essentially runs out of power to push it any faster. The zx 5 speed was made for the heavier zx 5 speed. It is also the easiest to find. You can get all the parts from the same donor car at a pic n pull or from a donor car. It is a project and will take some time and some experience, or some $$$ to have a shop do it. Net gain from an economic standpoint will be a loss. You will never be able to drive it far enough to make it pay for itself. But, if it is what you want, it doesn't matter what it costs........

Phil, comparative shopping and then based on supply and demand. Keep an eye on autotrader magazines. Also, look on ebay but under completed auctions. Tons of them are listed for sale but never sell. That doesn't count. KBB is pretty useless except for egos. I have $100 grand in antique iron according to kbb, but likely couldn't sell it for 40%. Watch the CL ads, etc. Emotional value is usually tripple of actual value. If you drove by your car on the street, what would you be willing to pay for it? There is no definitive answer other than pic a number that is reasonable and advertise it. If it doesn't sell in a reasonable time, adjust the price. I'd bet that all most all of us think our cars are worth more than we could actually sell them for.

I saw a shaved rear in person once, scared the hell out of meLOLLOLLOL

Venus, beautiful car. I didn't even notice the vents until reading the last post. For my own curiousity, what about the motor and performace upgrades. My next Z project, finishing my 77 turbo car, just took a huge cosmetic left turn:cool:

By all means get an oem style replacement dash instead of making something. Nice ones are expensive though. One solution is to get a "decent" one and put a cap on it. The caps are not concourse quality, but for a daily driver/weekend warrior they are great. It is a time consuming adventure to replace the entire dash but definately doable. Lots of wires and cables and limited space and so on. There was a memeber in Virginia that had a very nice dash for $800. I panicked when I started shopping for one because of the price. I have finally accepted they are going to be expensive. Keep an eye on the classifieds here as a decent one shows from time to time. A full cap is in the ball park of $100 and with some prep work will give you a reasonably nice end product.

After you initially get the bolt lose, hold the wrench stationary and rotate the driveline 1/8th turn or whatever it might be and then reposition the wrench. It is easier than trying to the wrench in that tight area. It is a preference thing I suppose. I think you'll catch on. I can't tell from your pics. When I use stands, I put them under the seat belt indentations on the floor. The key is a good solid location that is out of the way, won't do damage to the car, and SAFE.

By putting the car on the stands, you can rotate the driveline instead of the wrench to get the bolts out. It will become clear when you get there. Do be safe!

You have to disconnect the driveline from the rear diff. The bolts are a PITA! but it needs to be done. The driveline then slips right out of the tranny. Be prepaired to loosed oil there. If you plan to pull the tranny and engine together, save yourself some grief and drain the oil out of the tranny first. Good luck! It isn't all that difficult if you are already confident in pulling the motor and trans. Leonard

Follow up for the kyb boots and stops. I consider them to be junk. The boot is a semi ridged plastic and I doubt I'll use them. Often you get what you pay for, this time I didn't pay much and really feel I came up short. I'd put them in the "non recommended" file.

I REALLY like the bumperless look on the white Z in Venus' pictures. Am putting the little push bars like the cobra's on the front of my 444 (avitar). The volvo bumpers are the only ones I have ever found to be lighter duty than the Z's. (and more money)

BD lists them in their catalog for all s30's. I bought them from Amazon but their site says will not fit. I'll know soon enough.