IdahoKidd

Cool, that helps. I will have to look at the 240 tag and see if I can find the engine number. "Knowing" and "proving" are very different when a guy is standing there with a check book open.

I am baffled as to what "matching numbers" actually means. I was told here that the engine will have the same serial number as the firewall/vin. I have 5 Z's and not one of them matches. Then I just read a post that the person claimed his car has matching numbers and the serial number and the engine number are different. I have a 280z L28 motor that has a 6 digit number 141278 in a shell that has a vin that starts 369xxx I have a second 280z, engine number 179686 and a vin that is 404xxx. I know for certain that this car still has the original engine as I purchased it from the original owner with 120K miles on it. Simple question I guess; Does the engine number ever match the vin number or is there separate documentation to establish the correct engine number? I am trying to get my orange/white 240 back to as near original as I can. The car is a 10/71 production and I have a different 10/71 engine for it. Does it make a difference? Thanks, Leonard

Hi Krista, Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it near (1/8-1/4 inch) from a good ground and have someone crank the engine. It should fire a crisp blue spark. Leonard

Does it seem to do it more when the engine is hot? Check the timing, I am betting it is a tad fast. When it is hot and the timing is fast, the gas will detonate like diesel fuel but won't be able to sustain itself and die. If youi watch the motor, on its last surge of life, does it rotate backwards just a bit at the very end? If so, clear indication the timing is too far advanced. Another indicator might be that just before it starts, the starter will struggle, that is, just barely seem like it can turn the motor over, then it will pop and fire up. These symptoms point to timing. Other symptoms point different directions. I have had no experience with key switch issues so can't say. Let us know. Leonard

Congrats on the car! As for the ticking, look to see if it isn't an exhaust leak, either at the collector or at the manifold to the block (probably at the collector though). You might be able to see a black carbon trail near one of the three studs that hold the exhaust pipe to the collector. IF that is what it is, the gasket is about 6 bucks. Getting the nuts off the studs without twisting off the studs is the challenge. LOTS of PB Blaster. If you have a thread chaser (die), cleaning the threads could help. It is a major PITA to get out a broken stud. In fact, you may have a look and see if there is a broken one there now and it is indeed causing an exhaust leak. Leonard (just spent some 5 hours drilling out broken exhaust studs------Ugh!)

Is it possible/practical to retro fit the cruise stuff from a ZX (83 for example) to a 77? Seems that with a donor car it couldn't be that hard. I can't find any info on the search at all on the subject which leads me to believe it is either very easy and needs no explanation or very hard or not possible and nobody has tackled it. I have a donor car that I am going to be hauling away and I'd like to know if I should keep the cruise stuff. Thanks, Leonard

Hey guys, I just bought two 81 zx's with 5 speeds, one runs and drives but doesn't stop, the other doesn't start, and an 83 (may be an 84) zx turbo at a police impound auction. The turbo car was t-boned on the right side and someone has removed the transmission but the rest of the car is complete. Got all of these for $100.00. Now the hassle is getting them home (110 miles) and getting them dealt with. I am keeping the tranny's and the complete turbo motor, but will have a bunch of other stuff to get rid of and likely in a hurry as I already have 4 Z's in the yard. The neighbors are going to poop square turds when I come rolling in........... So, I know I should keep the engines (for now), probably the rear disc calipers and so on, but what else. I am planning to put the turbo motor and 5 speed into my 77 and a 5 speed into my 72 (it already has an R200 with a 4:56 posi). Any other things I should consider swapping into either car? What should I keep for trading stock? I will have to ferry these home one at a time and will have an evening or two to cabbage the goodies before I have to haul them off. There are no titles and the cars are coming out of state. I haven't actually seen them in person but no reason to believe any of them are fixers, nor do I have the time to do so. I am going after the first one on Friday night. If anyone has an interest in something from these, let me know and I'll see what is there. This will end up something like a pick and pull, only you'll pick and I'll pull. Leonard

Hey, thanks for the info. I will check into these. Part of my problem is that some of the molded plastic pieces are so brittle they literally shatter when handled and I need the actual piece now. ConchZ, my pieces are faded out like the ones in your pics. Years ago there was interior paint available but it was just junk so I was skeptical. I like your confidence in the stuff to give it a shot. As for searching. I have searched a lot and found a lot of information. Nothing at all is available on the product recommendations page. Searches: Perhaps I am doing something wrong or there is a simpler way, but when searching for two words together, "white interior" for example, or "black dragon", I get every post that has each of the two words and the search becomes overwhelming. Is there a simple way to get a series of words to come up together? "Aluminum flywheel" comes to mind. Thanks, Leonard

I am looking to replace the complete interior of my Orange/white 240z. Black Dragon appears to have all of the pieces in kit form. Has anyone bought one of these kits and care to comment? Any other suggestions or sources to consider? Thanks, Leonard

What happens if you pump the pedal? Does it firm up and hold or does it always go right to the floor? If it pumps and holds, you have air in the lines and they need bled out at the wheel cylinders/calipers. If it pumps up solid for time and fades away as you hold pressure, check on the inside of the wheels and on the floor/driveway for brake fluid. A wheel cylinder or caliper is leaking. You will have a loss of fluid in the resevoir as well. If no fluid loss, the piston in the master cylinder is bad. Could be as simple as replacing the piston after a light honing of the cylinder. Likely a replacement master cylinder is faster and as cheap. It will need bled again after bench bleeding it, starting with the wheel furthest from the cylinder on each circut (front discs and rear drums). Let us know. Leonard

Hey Mike, thanks for the lead! I'll have to check out the details. I don't know about ac stuff am trying to figure out why I can't use the underhood parts I have and just get the dash parts I'd need. Probably a really good reason, I just don't know. It might be cleaner and simpler in the end to get the new system. It isn't that I am cheap, it is that I am poor. Big difference.......

Good to know the 280 stuff doesn't fit. I am assuming then that there was factory air available in the 240? I know I don't want to fit an underdash aftermarket unit in there (even if it would fit). Leonard

I am doing a complete make over (as opposed to a true restoration) of my 72 240. I have a complete AC system from a 77 280z in a parts car. While I want this car to look stock, I also want it to be a reliable and enjoyable daily driver. I am asking for the pro's and con's of installing the AC into this car. I am assuming it isn't that complicated to R&R the pieces, I don't know how practical it really is or if more modern parts (the whole refrigerant issues) are the best bet. Any thoughts from anyone that has done this? Thanks, Leonard

When Datsun went to the fuel injection, Volvo did too. I haven't ever figured out if Datsun calls there's "D-Jet" as does Volvo with the Bosch system, but each system has the same parts with largely the same names and almost all of the same systematic problems. Kind of fun finding a solution on this site to fix my other car with the same symptoms. 80% of the time it is a grounding issue of some sort, just a matter of locating it. The car in my avitar is my 57 Volvo 444 K. As soon as the Orange and white 240 is finished, I'll get a pic and change it for this site. Politically correct and all : )

Thanks for the followup. It really helps those of us following along with similar issues trying to find the solutions. It amazes me at times how much these cars and the early fuel injected volvo's have in common. Must be the technology of the times I guess. It also amazes me how frustrating it is to find the root cause and then how simple a lot of the fixes are.

Thanks guys. The shop will sell me the glass outright for $220 with no installation. I guess it is about right. Didn't want to get robbed.

I live in a one horse town and the horse isn't much more than a shetland pony. I am in need of a windshield on my 280z and was quoted $320 plus a gasket. The gasket was going to be $130. I know I can get a gasket cheaper-what is the going rate for a new windshield installed these days? Thanks, Leonard

NO NO NO! Go get a steering wheel puller. You can buy one for a few bucks or sometimes Schucks Kragen O'Rilleys or NAPA will loan you one. It has two sleeves that have two bolts go through it and thread into existing holes in the steering wheel hub. There is a larger threaded shaft (5/8's or so) that goes through the puller making contact with the steering shaft. Put a wrench on the end of that shaft (the puller) and turn as though you are tightening a bolt. It will literally pop right off in a few turns. There should be only one nut on the steering wheel shaft to take off before doing this. The entire process should take about 5 minutes. You will destroy the wheel and or the steering shaft trying for pry it off or beat it off by striking the end of the steering shaft.

SBlake, I am have decided to stay with the 240 engine from the same year car and keep the rebuilt l28 for the 77 project it was intended for. I am curious why you dislike the aluminum flywheel. I know I will loose some torque but should pick up rpm response. With the deeper gears, torque isn't an issue (I don't think........). Besides, the '57 International S120 with its inline six and 6:13 gears will grunt any stumps in the neighborhood. I have located a 5 speed from an 80zx (non turbo). Am I correct to assume that the flywheel (stock) is the same for the 280z and the 240z? I have spares for the 280's, non for the 240.

Looks like the one in my 77 280z only in better shape. Mine (in 2 of three cars) has turned to a crusty cottage cheese type. I am going to put my spare 240 wheel in to replace it. Leonard

I got all the legals squared away yesterday on my 72 240z find. It is factory orange and white and the only rust anywhere is on top of the fender over the right rear wheel. Body shop friend of mine laughed and said "it is nothing, easy easy fix." I put it up on the rack and see that it has two pipes from the engine to the exhaust tips with resonators in the middle. I am guessing this is the "twice pipes" I have read about here? The car apparently has an R200 with a 4:56 posi, 4 speed and an L26 with an aluminum flywheel. PO said it "comes out of the hole damn fast but tops out about 100". I would think that sounds right? He said 60 mph is about 3000 rpm. The tach in my 280 doesn't work so I don't have a reference at all. I haven't rotated or fired the engine yet. I am told it runs but I did find two rebuild kits for the su's in the back. He also told me it has a diamond cut head? or a diamond shaped head? (it has an e88 head) and part of the reason it is parked is the installer didn't shim the cam. Not sure what some of this means (I do understand the shimming the cam bit). Any ideas? Since this isn't a matching numbers car:ermm: I have several engine options. I have a known good low mile (rebuilt) 240 motor from a same year car setting on a roller cart and right next to it is a 0 mile rebuilt l28 motor (originally destined for my gray 77 280). Which motor would you recommend? It will be a daily/recreational driver. Speed cost money and I am poor so what I have is largely what I will have. While my neighbor doesn't share my enthusiasm with the new arrival (4 Z's, 2 Volvo's, and IHS 120, and '52 Windsor Deluxe in the project patch, I am pretty jazzed over this one.

You can't leave us like that! What was the problem and what was the fix?

Any of you guys having this trouble? My Z's are starting to breed at night. First I was outright given a 77 280z that wouldn't run (pos and neg cables crossed). Not knowing what the problem was initially, I purchased another 77 as a parts donor. Within a few days, I looked out and a 72 240 was nestled between them. Just a couple of weeks later, I noticed another 280 setting next to them with the hood up. And just last night, I was walking around in the shop and there was yet another, a 71 240, orange with white interior. I am almost out of cash.................. ugh! No more clunkers. I did find what I hope to be my last Z, at least for a while, yesterday. Following a sketchy lead, I came into a 1971 240, orange with white interior, slotted mags, NO rust anywhere, not even surface rust. The car sat outside for who knows how long. Tires are aired up, last licensed in 1995. Interior is typical for sun wear but seat covers saved the seats to some degree and clothing clutter saved most of the rear. It apparently has motor issues as the cap is off the distributor and three plug wires (rear three) are pulled. The air cleaner is off and in the back, but as far as I can tell, everything is there. Even the power antenna. It has a cassette player but the original radio is in the back under the old clothes. It has a production date of 10/71 and the vin is 480xx. I sent the other 72 to the graveyard but kept the motor and a bunch of the parts so I am very confident I have enough to make it roadworthy within a weekend. Cosmetically it could stand a good buffing. The interior vinyl will need replaced someday. I am pretty jazzed and am going to put my current 77 project on hold to tackle this one. Undoubtedly I will have some stupid and redundant questions to ask so I might as well get the first one out of the way. For "numbers matching" criteria, does the motor out of my 12/71 qualify in my 10/71 car? Oh, the guy worked me over on the price. I finally caved in and gave him the $800 he was asking. I HATE paying retail:ermm: I'll get a pic or two but it will be a short while. Working out of town over the weekend and perhaps a day or two beyond. Leonard

I did something to that effect with my Dodge Dart 340 Sport. I hooked up a simple contact switch to the carb so that when the four barrels opened the "Fasten Seatbelt" light lit up. Way cool when you are 18!

All three of my 77's have the floor temp indicator in the dash. Only two of them have the emblem that states it was catalytic equiped. None of the lights have ever come on. None of them have the altitude sensor that I am aware of. Don't know if they even have a bulb behind them but am betting they probably all came with the indicator as a matter of production line ease. No reason to believe any of them were actually sold in CA. Two of them almost certainly were pacific northwest cars. Haven't traced the third car back to original owner but records available show it to have been serviced with very low miles here in Idaho. Who knows I guess. I wish it wasn't there (the light) if it doesn't function, but it is and so be it........... Leonard