IdahoKidd

I thought it should have been a direct swap. It belongs to the guy who is painting my car and since I am still recovering from rotator surgery, all I can do is watch. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. We are thinking the solid diff mount is the problem, that it was meant for a different application or ?? We will try to find an oem style today and see if it is different. The old one was decayed and tossed. It was mind boggling last night as everything seemed to work right up until it didn't. As soon as we can get his car out of the way (major suspension work), I can get my car in for the shell to be painted. It isn't about him, it's about me LOLLOLLOL

Trying to put a 77 diff into a 75 body using the 77 crossmember with a solid diff mount. The problem is the centering bolt is too far forward by an inch. I can't locate this issue in the searches (too much information, nothing specific). Any suggestions on what might be wrong? Any chance the mount itself is wrong? I am assuming:finger:that the diff is physically the same in the 75 as is in the 77. Thanks! Leonard

Indeed. Moscow, Idaho USA. Armpit of creation.

An F54 block with flat pistons is a non turbo and there are literally hundreds and hundreds out there for less than that. I can't imagine why anyone would have spent the money to sleeve it. I'd pass and buy one of mine instead.

I have just realized I don't have a hole for the fuel pump (boss is there) on my N47 head. I will pull the head and take out the cast aluminum, is there anything particular I need to do or look out for? Thanks, Leonard

Keep it. Even in north idaho I specifically sought out a 280z that had factory air. I can't imagine living in southern cal without it, in anything.

I have a fully prepped rebuilt L28 ($5200.00 in receipts) engine on an engine stand destined for my 240. The shop painted the entire engine, head, valve cover, pan, a dark Ford blue. I am wanting/planning to paint the block 110 red/orange/Persimmons to match the body color and the valve cover I have polished and trimmed out to match body color (different post here). I think having the head painted body color is too much, but am concerned about getting the blue paint off without staining the aluminum and not sure it is worth the effort to polish. I guess the question is, what are you guys doing with the cylinder head when dressing up the car? I am not building a show car, not keeping to exact oem, am intending to keep it period correct, and definately building it suit me. Should I just get it back to bare aluminum and let it go at that? Should I get some Hi Temp aluminum colored paint? Open to all suggestions. Thanks! Leonard

Zed, Thanks for posting the #'s. I am going to bookmark them as I will be replacing them in the near future. Nice to find this information! Leonard

OK car probably, NOT close to 10 grand and not close to original collecter by any stretch

Nice car, serial # just over 800 from mine. Curious to see what it sells for.

My painter insisted we change the doglegs "just to be sure". We used the ones from Black Dragon and he was very satisfied with the fit. They were about $54 each. It took about an hour on each side to remove and replace. You can see in the picture of one the amount of underseal that had been in place but you can see to the surface rust around the edges. There was no signs of rust on the outside however.

I found this link while killing time on craigslist http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1653661113.html It "looks" original enough but it has an automatic. I hadn't heard of any with automatics but..... FYI-I have nothing to do with this car but the interest in the discussion it may generate

Oven cleaner works really well EXCEPT it will stain your aluminum. It will eat the grease and the paint. A cleaner that works well without harming the aluminum but will still eat the paint is called "Carbon off" Really good stuff and bought at appliance repair shops.

My 240 has the stock manifold and the twice pipes pretty much as shown and I like the sound. In fact, I am very glad you found that link as I am going to purchase this unit to replace what is there for the "restoration". Leonard

How difficult is it to get some pictures and look into some specific details? The fuel injection, is it a stock configuration or a modified such as mega squirt? Is the suspension stock or does it have coil overs? A picture of the GT badge and location would be interesting. Sounds to me like a 75 280z that someone has put some candy on to dress it up. My buddy's 75 has the large filler that my 72 240 has. At some point 280z, at least in the states, went to the smaller fuel neck for emmissions (vapor loss and so on). If it is a 75 280, it is worth what you are willing to pay for it. Down here (northern Idaho), they sell for about $2000 as a daily driver, and not a heck of a lot more glamorized). Of course the amendments could add or detract value, depending on what they are and how well they were done. Never heard of a GT in any Z but it has been pointed out I have a hearing problem sometimes

Killer, what car/year? I have misc such parts from a used late 77/78. Haven't looked to check condition closely, but know they were okay. Send me a private if you are interested. Leonard

My 110 red/orange 240 had a heavy and well done undercoating under the entire fender well area on all four corners. Heavy like a 1/4 inch. Well done as it covered every nook and cranny and not a flake has peeled off. The more I think about it, the more I like this. Unless you squat down and look, you don't see it at all, and since it is black, you don't see color through the wheels as a distraction. It beats doing all the prep work required for painting. (Personal opinion....) Love that yellow Z in the pic Chris posted. Notice the orange in the wheel on the rear? Wonder if that is a disc caliper or if the drum was painted orange. I'd like to know what color that was. It might be a bit much to have a yellow 280 parked next to a red/orange 240 though........ I just might risk it though;)

I like the IROC Camero yellow from about 1995. I'll likely paint my ZT that color. As for the glass, you will have to replace the gaskets anyway. On the front, using a straight blade knife/box cutter, remove the chrome trim and simply cut around the edge of the window through the gasket and take it out. Takes one guy about 5 minutes. Same with the rear window. I can't imagine you ever being able to save the gasket as it is going to be brittle. It looks to me like we are very similar in progress. I hope you can stick to your timeline, I can't even get close to mine.

I am with anthony, when it is cold it pops right off. My car is covered with the stuff and we have it apart to paint. I am going to try putting dry ice in a cover and see if I can't get it to pop off in pieces that way. You can see in the pictures that at some point, I am certain when it was new, the stuff was put on every seam, behind every plastic panel, the entire bottom of the car, every where, including the entire bottom of the hood. The good news is that the ONLY rust was a nickle size hole in one of the shock towers.

At least in my vocabulary, a fuel cell is an "aftermarket" gas tank relocated to a different part of the car. Someone said it was safer, but I doubt that. There is a lot of engineering that goes into location, venting, routing of fuel lines, etc. Perhaps more practical in some applications, and not legal everywhere for highway use. Oregon, if you are simply just bolting it into the hatch and not doing any working over of the spare tire well, it probably is easier. But you give up the hatch and have the tank inside the cabin of the car. A poor and unacceptable trade in my book for a driver. A race car is a different story.

I'm thinking this thread lost continuity somewhere and should be two separate threads. I'd be discouraged to search for something and come into this. The conversation is great, but not much to do with nomenclature. Just my opinion...

I agree with Arne, definately the outbound round in the first picture, although, I personally like the double stack on the left. To me, it just looks more sporty and more period correct and still not just like the next guys. There is a post on the board here somewhere where someone found a dual inlet dual outlet that was stacked and fit pretty well. It is all a matter of preference, but I'd be hard pressed to go to the effort to put in dual exhaust at the expense of installing a fuel cell to do it.

I've been working on cars for over 30 years. Never heard of a combi switch or a dizzy until I started fooling with Z's. Thought it was Z specific... Seriously.

My understanding: JDM= Japanese Domestic Market

Spitz, I was looking at your signature. I have a buddy who works at subaru and I drive an old rally volvo. Volvo's were whooping up on the subaru's at the time. I gave him my bumper sticker that said "Drive slow and live. Drive a subaru and live forever"