IdahoKidd

I am just curious. Has anyone ever experienced and engine failure do to the oil filter? Ever? I've been around thousands of engines. Never ever seen or heard of an engine that failed from an oil filter filtration problem or an outright oil filter failure.

I'm preparing to have twice pipes installed in my 72 "refreshed" car. I'm using an L28 with SU's into a 6 into 2 header with the intent of running dual pipes to the rear. Do I need to have a cross over tube behind the collector to equalize the exhaust pressure. The old set did not have this but came of the stock manifold. The local "know-it-alls" are pretty evenly split on whether it should be done or not. Any of you guys running them using a cross over tube? I know years ago when I was a gopher at the muffler shop, we did it on the V8's when we did dual exhaust systems. Don't ever recall splitting a 6 cylinder unit. As a side bar, the original (at least the pipes that came on the car) were 1 1/4, I am planning to use 1 1/2. Any thoughts there? It is only dumping 3 cylinders...

Looks like a great find. The hood scoops are unusual. The 75 is unusual to itself because of the ecu. As I recall, the afm's are generally pretty universal. $120 seems steep for a used part. $40 seems more inline. Read read and read some more from the archives here. Do a search on a subject and start following the threads. Everything is there IF you can find it. I really do wish there was a more effecient way to search this site........ I have my home page here and everyday I read all of the new posts. It is a great way to find "problem areas" with the cars. Many of the parts are available at NAPA and Orielly's. Black Dragon, Motorsports, Zcar source are a few places to buy new stuff. Shop around! The same bag of rivets on ebay for $18 are available at Motorsports for $7. On the other hand, some of what they have is doubled up over someone else. Get the factory service manual (FSM). I bought one on ebay in disk form. It is okay, it was just pictures of the pages and no search option. I can't get the link to open that folks post here for it but apparently I am the only one as no one else has complained. But no matter, get one. This is a great resource (this site). These folks are great and the knowledge is incredible. Having been a gung ho "newbie" a few years ago, I learned rather abruptly that you get more and better help if you spend an extra five minutes being sure of the question that you have, being sure you have spent a few minutes researching the solution (ie, search and fsm) and then as clearly as possible framing the question to get the correct answer. That said, ask questions about those things that come up. These Z's are like fickle women, but bring them chocolate and flowers on occasion and they will give you the ride of a lifetime!

As a driver, either will do. In my opinion, and I have both, the 280 is more reliable as far as turn key start and drive. 90% of the viewing public can't tell the difference from the sidewalk in appearance. As far as value goes, it seems to me that a 240 and a 280 in identical shape, neither being a show car, are worth about the same money. Get either in good condition and you'll be fine. And, by the way, it is incredibly easy to dump way more money into either than you can ever hope to recover, so buy it to suit youself.

I am with you FastWoman, I am not all that photogenic either. I do think it would be cool to have members post their mug shots somewhere so we can put a face with the avitar. Some of the folks here have become regular "coffee shop acquantances" but I wouldn't know a single one of them if I sat down next to them.

Good looking car! You should go stand by it for a picture so we have a face to put with he project.

Anybody else find a handful of dead links with some of these? I can't remember which, I picked 3 at random and they weren't good links. Agreed, great concept tho. Much like my "favorites" list in my Z folder.

I have several used ones if you need to go that route. All will need surfaced. Freight could be an issue as they are heavy. They are all the same for the non turbo and non 2+2, so even one from a zx will work fine. Probably $20(?) at a wrecking yard. Unless you have chattering or noise or some other issue, yours is probably good as it is, just needs resurfacing. I am with Arne, take a spare in and get it surfaced and ready so the clutch job is a same day event. It may take a machine shop a day or two to get yours in line.

Man it sucks to be poor!

I think he meant by 'boarded out' was that he sent it to a machine shop where they kept it and fed it for an extended time LOLLOLLOL

Found this on craigslist in Boise Idaho. I've no affiliation to the car (or Boise). Kind of cool and a lot of work! http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/2027049311.html

Dave, A picture is worth a thousand words! This I can figure out:D Many thanks! Leonard

Hey thanks!

Can anyone tell me for certain if the strut insulator and bearing from a 77 280 will fit on a 72 240. I have a damaged one on the 240 and a 280 parts car out back in the mud. Thanks!

I don't have the inner ring, but even at that, I can't find a place to attach it if it were thre. I was wondering if there was a spring loaded "bar" that worked like a t bar or something. My other widemouth car has nothing at all so can't compare it. My FSM is on loan to a buddy but not sure it would show it anyway.

My 72 240 large mouth gas cap has a chain hooked to the inside of the cap. Where on earth does the other end hook too? Can't seem to come to a logical conclusion. Thanks! Leonard

I wonder if the cladding was a regional thing perhaps? I am in the Pacific Northwest. Any other areas (your neighborhood) where it was common/popular?

All of my 280z's have that cladding along the bottom. Don't know that I have ever seen one that didn't have it. Never seen it on the 260 or 240 though... That is a very nice car, but he is a bit misimformed about the changes in the body style. It is just a 280z

It's a fuel issue. Not enough pressure or not enough volume. It will try to start after it sets because the fuel pickup can get enough to get it going and then the line/filter/tank plugs up and no more. Take a spray bottle (windex, cleaner, anything) fill it with gas, pull the hose off the afm and spray it in while cranking. I'll bet it will run along as you keep spraying the fuel. If I am right, (IF), then there is a problem with the fuel delivery system (weak pump, plugged pickup, junk in the tank, plugged filter). Out of curiousity, how did you KNOW the injecters were bad? Let us know what you finally determine.

It definately sounds like a ground issue, at least in part. Experience tells me that dim lights are from poor grounds and another circut is grounding through the headlights. Check all the connectors and be sure the ground wires at the eyes where they attach to sheet metal are getting solid connections.

Hard to say by the picture. Hate the stripes! Look for rust in all the usual places. I bought nicer for much much less. It is all about the market, who has it and who wants it.

If you start the project and go to med school, you'll never finish it. If you go to med school, you'll never start the project. Finish one, then the other. If you plan to have an altered Z, after med school pays off, go buy one.

I'm in north Idaho and bought several zx 5 speeds. The most I've paid is $100. Taken from this post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1957 "[I]The stock transmission gears are as follows: 240Z 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 4 speed type A 3.549 2.197 1.420 1.00 4 speed type B 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.00 280Z 5 speed 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.00 .864 280ZX 5 speed 1980 3.062 1.858 1.308 1.00 .773 1981-on 3.062 1.858 1.308 1.00 .745 As I recall, the zx speed has a slightly stronger 5th gear. I truly doubt anyone will notice the difference in a .745 ratio versus an .864 Put in the zx unit, they are plentiful, cheap, and reliable.

Sending units are a dime a dozen used. I bet I have at least 4 from various parts cars. First things first, pull the sending unit out of the tank (while still in the car) and have a look into the tank. You can see quite a bit with a flashlight looking in through the hole and even more with a remote camera. Look at the bottom of the tank and see how much crud might be in there. It there is a bunch, you'll have to drop the tank. If there isn't, try taking out the fuel pump and using air pressure, blow the line backwards into the tank (put the sending unit back in place to avoid a mess!) How do you "know" the tank pickup is blocked and that it isn't a fuel pump not sucking? If the tank is indeed bad, there are several things to do, the cheapest is to scour up a used tank. Determine for certain what you are up against and collectively we can find a direction/solution.

I seriously doubt the engine is truly broken in at 1500 miles. I too believe synthetic oil should wait until the 5000 mile mark, but mostly, I believe the valve guide seals are giving the grief. The have dried out and now the synthetic oil is so slippery it goes right past the seal. My 77 smokes on start up if parked for any length of time, but only does it with synthetic oil in it. Changed back to 10/30 Valvoline and it went away. (did this on the advice of my machinist). Typically, start up smoke comes from oil seeping down the valve stem and pooling in the cylinder and burns up. Smoke from ring issues usually comes when letting off the throttle after hard acceleration or after coming down a long hill using the engine for braking (letting off the throttle). When getting back on the throttle if it really blows the blue smoke, it typically is ring related. As a side bar, synthetic oil pours out the seals of my 57 international but conventional oil stays put. My experiences